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  1. #1
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    Engine Building. Whats Involved?

    So im looking at a few different options now. I realize we are hindered by certain limitations.

    So im looking at some CP pistons, and possible lowering the compression. Ive heard 9.5:1 is ideal for us. WIth that being said, what exactly is inolved in getting to them and replacing. What need to be done, ie motor removed? how long/hard/cost is this going to run me?

    Additionally, Im thinking about the heads as well. Now ive also been told our heads actually flow just fine for higher power levels, but i figured if going into the motor, might as well get it done. Here is a list of what im told would be done with it:
    Complete Disassembly & Cleaning
    Comprehensive Leak, Crack & Pressure Test
    Inspect All Components For Irregular Wear
    Our High performance Multi Angle Valve Job using Serdi Equipment
    All New Uprated Valve Guides
    Viton Valve Seals
    Reconditioning & Blueprinting of Your Valves
    Balancing of Your OE Springs
    Trueness Checked & Resurfaced Mating Surface
    Unshrouding of Valves
    Attention to Potential Hot-spot Areas and Chamfering


    Im thinking this sounds like the way to go. Im not trying to break records or have a 1000hp car, just more than what other currently have, and safely, with a bit of longevity involved.

    what else need to be done to the motor in addition to whats listed, or what doesnt need to be done and WHY.

    ALL input is greatly appreciated

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    I would look into balancing the entire rotating assembly, i.e. crank with rods and pistons attached to it...maybe knife-edging the crank a little bit? On the flat-sixes we used to send the crank out to have the counterweight edges slimmed down and the leading edge V-faced to cut through the oil mist, as well has chamfering the edges of the block around each cylinder to also cut down on turbulence. If you wanted to get anal, smoothing out the inside of the block, getting rid of casting flash and irregularities and providing a smooth surface to aid in oil return back to the pan.

    That list that you have is pretty well thought out. Ive been thinking it over myself to see what else I would do to an engine. The problem is with any change in port design or flow might affect the airflow patterns inside cylinder for DI. No one knows as of yet...which is why the heads have been left stock.

    I would really REALLY think you could gain a lot from just finding someone to make a tubular manifold welded to the OEM turbos...that little dinky log manifold has to be seriously restricting some good power.

  3. #3
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    Building the motor is great and all but what is holding you back now, fuel, will still be holding you back.

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    Its gonna cost you around:
    1500 USD to remove the engine
    1400 USD to open up the engine, clean it, change all the parts and put it back together
    1500 USD to remount the engine

    There are lots of parts that have to be replaced in this process as additional cost.

    Porting of intake head costed med 1000 USD and head renovation with new guides etc around 1500
    07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD BMS E85 - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
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  5. #5
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by enrita Click here to enlarge
    Its gonna cost you around:
    1500 USD to remove the engine
    1400 USD to open up the engine, clean it, change all the parts and put it back together
    1500 USD to remount the engine

    There are lots of parts that have to be replaced in this process as additional cost.

    Porting of intake head costed med 1000 USD and head renovation with new guides etc around 1500
    You put the engine internals all back to stock other than the heads though, correct?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    You put the engine internals all back to stock other than the heads though, correct?
    yes .
    Also guys note that there are no predefined rebuild kits for this engine than include all codes of parts needed to be replaced. BMW has NO clue which parts are needed so there is a huge amount of work involved into ordering all the parts and actually get the right one back. all crank bearings for example are color coded. you need the exact right bearing depending where its suppose to sit.
    At first BMW germany send the same bearings for all 6 cylinders ... this parts are also not in stock and are shipped directly from BMW germany which also does not have them in stock so they have to be ordered from their supplier.
    I guess the issue is that this is not an M engine but std BMW one . M engineering probably have all sorts of rebuild kits for their cars.
    In case of engine failure BMW just prefer to ship a brand new and built engine. I think my engine was probably the first one rebuilded in the world .. .
    07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD BMS E85 - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
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  7. #7
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by enrita Click here to enlarge
    yes .
    Also guys note that there are no predefined rebuild kits for this engine than include all codes of parts needed to be replaced. BMW has NO clue which parts are needed so there is a huge amount of work involved into ordering all the parts and actually get the right one back. all crank bearings for example are color coded. you need the exact right bearing depending where its suppose to sit.
    At first BMW germany send the same bearings for all 6 cylinders ... this parts are also not in stock and are shipped directly from BMW germany which also does not have them in stock so they have to be ordered from their supplier.
    I guess the issue is that this is not an M engine but std BMW one . M engineering probably have all sorts of rebuild kits for their cars.
    In case of engine failure BMW just prefer to ship a brand new and built engine. I think my engine was probably the first one rebuilded in the world .. .
    Any way we could compile a list of the part numbers necessary to do it?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Any way we could compile a list of the part numbers necessary to do it?
    i have the entire bill at home , can upload it later on today but i dont think any codes are mentioned and its mostly in swedish.
    07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD BMS E85 - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
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  9. #9
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by enrita Click here to enlarge
    i have the entire bill at home , can upload it later on today but i dont think any codes are mentioned and its mostly in swedish.
    It's ok if its in Swedish. I'm sure we can figure out how to piece it together.

    I'm just thinking it may be useful to somehow lay out the parts and cost for N54 people.

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    LM, its interesting you only want to work on the head (other than pistons), is it that you want to increase the rev limiter? the bottom end of this car is pretty beefy, buts its still an open deck. there's only so much boost or hp you can push through it without sleeving. you know i have a friend up in NY where i used to go to college, he put cement in in block, to fill in his open deck, it worked but of course was more of a band-aid fix and made his engine super heavy, threw out the balance of his car (he didnt have a x35). i wish you luck in your venture, please keep us updated if you plan to really do anything.
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    2007 335i Coupe
    Mods: Check the Garage

  11. #11
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    I began looking because i wanted just the psitons, but after looking there are some options. If the motor has to be pulled for the pistons, then i might as well some other things, just like Enrita did, such as the intake valves. Ive been told our motors are pretty stout as is, but if there is some benefit and worthehile things to do, while lowering the compression, then might as well do it at the same time. At this point im just looking, but its very possible.

    Fueling is obviously still there. IM just waiting on some other people going for even more performance, to figure that one out and let the R&D trickle down

  12. #12
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    Attaching my rebuild bill

    Actually all product codes and the number of them needed are included so this is pretty usefull i guess.
    Attached Images Attached Images     
    07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD BMS E85 - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
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  13. #13
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    holy $#@! dude, i knew engine work was expensive but goddamn. i dont even wanna do the math Click here to enlarge did the conversion of SEK to USD, i havnt done the math but put an estimate, its a big difference.
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    2007 335i Coupe
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  14. #14
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    a full engine build should run somewhere about 10k if done correctly
    2006 AW/Black ZCP 6MT


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    This was about 15K.... USD
    07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD BMS E85 - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
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  16. #16
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    I figured thats what it probably was i under shot it cause I'm used to hearing numbers about the japanese motors being built lol

    The shop that i frequent always does motor builds for aroung 8-11k for a BMW 15k sounds about right.
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  17. #17
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    JEBUS!! might take bit lobnger than anticipated then..

    now if we could only translate for an accurate part-part number reference list...

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    All parts you see on page 2 and 3 which have the kod/Artikelnr besides Motorblock and kolv (pistons) and Tändstift (sparkplugs) are needed when you take apart one engine and put it back together. Antal means amount.
    07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD BMS E85 - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
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    Engine building for the N54 is terribly expensive right now.
    The minimum cost, of tearing down, and building back up (without pistons, rods, headwork, balancing) is 4k. I looked into this.
    But it simply isn't worth it. Instead of building my motor, I decided to work on fuel stuff. Fuel is the biggest barrier in the N54. Once fuel stuff is worked out, the motor can easily crack 600rwhp on a stock block.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by unfor Click here to enlarge
    Engine building for the N54 is terribly expensive right now.
    The minimum cost, of tearing down, and building back up (without pistons, rods, headwork, balancing) is 4k. I looked into this.
    But it simply isn't worth it. Instead of building my motor, I decided to work on fuel stuff. Fuel is the biggest barrier in the N54. Once fuel stuff is worked out, the motor can easily crack 600rwhp on a stock block.
    Someone gets it!

    You dont need to rebuild this motor unless you intend to run huge power figures. The motor is stout as is, lower compression and leave it alone.
    Some people live long, meaningful lives.

    Other people eat shit and die.

    I'm not racist, I hate everybody equally; especially fat people.


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    To change the pistons you need to unmount and open the engine! is it worth it ? Dont think so.
    07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD BMS E85 - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
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  22. #22
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by oddjob2021 Click here to enlarge
    holy $#@! dude, i knew engine work was expensive but goddamn. i dont even wanna do the math Click here to enlarge did the conversion of SEK to USD, i havnt done the math but put an estimate, its a big difference.
    My thoughts as well!

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by enrita Click here to enlarge
    Attaching my rebuild bill

    Actually all product codes and the number of them needed are included so this is pretty usefull i guess.
    Thanks for posting this, extremely useful!

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by enrita Click here to enlarge
    To change the pistons you need to unmount and open the engine! is it worth it ? Dont think so.
    Plus, if you are replacing pistons, you need to replace rods as well. Bore out the motor to correct clearances etc. Its expensive.

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    well then. i guess ill just wait and see how the fuel system upgrades come along.. if they get here Click here to enlarge

    and ill just start the motor build fund.. but of course, by the time that is where it needs to be, i could always just put it towards the S/C for the S65 Click here to enlarge

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