Close

Page 7 of 16 FirstFirst ... 56789 ... LastLast
Results 151 to 175 of 377
  1. #151
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    3,293
    Rep Points
    1,435.7
    Mentioned
    53 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    15


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by govr46 Click here to enlarge
    Tony has my car apart right now cause the stage 3 kit was removed to go into production.
    He is getting ready to install his stage 2.5 so i can drive the car around as a beta tester.
    oooh what's 2.5?
    boop

  2. #152
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    3,293
    Rep Points
    1,435.7
    Mentioned
    53 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    15


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by GeorgiaTech335Coupe Click here to enlarge
    I wish I knew the answers to the ARP questions. Maybe if other people start calling and asking, they'll realize the market is about to grow.
    hmm i'll send them more emails/call local ARP

    not cool they they don't have any for the N54, but they would for pretty much every other decent BMW motor... heck, already the '86's motor without a doubt.
    boop

  3. #153
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    North Houston
    Posts
    1,294
    Rep Points
    1,637.4
    Mentioned
    111 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    17


    Yes Reputation No
    so like i was saying, "standardize" the studs.


    as in, find a stud kit that is about what you need, and install timecerts to match the stud thread pitch.
    Click here to enlarge
    Burger Motorsports dealer
    Turner Motorsports dealer
    Bimmerworld dealer
    Active Autowerks Dealer
    Shipping built/stroked/CNC ported N54's Internationally!
    Follow us!
    http://www.facebook.com/BMWdoctor
    http://twitter.com/abrhouston
    http://instagram.com/abrhouston/
    http://abrhouston.com
    http://abr.genbook.com Book online appointments!

  4. #154
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    3,293
    Rep Points
    1,435.7
    Mentioned
    53 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    15


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    so like i was saying, "standardize" the studs.


    as in, find a stud kit that is about what you need, and install timecerts to match the stud thread pitch.
    what are timecerts, and are they expensive in themselves?

    and are timecerts application specific?

    ED: ah a threaded insert

    sounds like it would be weaker than a straight up thread in a head?
    boop

  5. #155
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Harrisburg
    Posts
    1,281
    Rep Points
    1,527.3
    Mentioned
    43 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    16


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    oooh what's 2.5?
    I think that's the latest revision with the 9 blade turbines and the billet wheels. I would call it Stage 2.1 or Stage 2 Rev. 2, as it still utilizes the stock housings, just with the next progression of wheels.
    Eppur si muove.

  6. #156
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Harrisburg
    Posts
    1,281
    Rep Points
    1,527.3
    Mentioned
    43 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    16


    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    what are timecerts, and are they expensive in themselves?

    and are timecerts application specific?

    ED: ah a threaded insert

    sounds like it would be weaker than a straight up thread in a head?
    They are like helicoils. The advantage is the timercert requires a bigger hole to be drilled, so it kind of gives you the benefit of a bigger bolt (more surface area for the threads). And it is steel, so when you thread in the actual bolt, it threads into steel instead of aluminum, so it gives a strength advantage in that regard as well.
    Eppur si muove.

  7. #157
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Houston under a book
    Posts
    1,358
    Rep Points
    2,594.9
    Mentioned
    63 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    26


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    what are timecerts, and are they expensive in themselves?

    and are timecerts application specific?

    ED: ah a threaded insert

    sounds like it would be weaker than a straight up thread in a head?
    That is a common misconception. In nearly every application, a timecert is superior to a standard size bolt in the aluminum. They are the standard fix for many aluminum engines that experience head lifting. On Cadillac northstars and high power LS engines, the head can lift, pulling the threads out of the block. Since you drill the threads out and tap for the timecert, there is more surface area on the threads and thus stronger. Since it's steel, the hardware will not pull the threads out from the inside of the cert. Better than stock in all applications.

  8. #158
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    North Houston
    Posts
    1,294
    Rep Points
    1,637.4
    Mentioned
    111 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    17


    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    what are timecerts, and are they expensive in themselves?

    and are timecerts application specific?

    ED: ah a threaded insert

    sounds like it would be weaker than a straight up thread in a head?
    timcerts are DEFINATELY not cheap, compared to heli-coils. The inserts are about 5-8 bucks each.
    they take much more precision and skill to install correctly. When installing them on a block, I prefer doing it on the Bridgeport, since I can get EXACT location and its perfectly straight.

    If the engine is in the car, i have a jig that works on M54 engines that utilizes a heavy aluminum plate that bolts on the block, with carbide guides that will hold the drill bits and taps straight on the block.

    i have done probably 30+ M54's like this. When they overheat(head gasket pops), the block aluminum anneals, and pulls the threads when you put the head back on.

    Timecerts are without a doubt MUCH stronger platform than whatever bolt it replaced. The quote below is right on target.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
    They are like helicoils. The advantage is the timercert requires a bigger hole to be drilled, so it gives you the benefit of a bigger bolt (more surface area for the threads). And it is steel, so when you thread in the actual bolt, it threads into steel instead of aluminum, so it gives a strength advantage in that regard as well.

    The other advantage is the insert "locks" into the material, so not only are you dealing with thread engagement, your dealing with an insert that is literally a delta shape inside a hole. It ISN'T coming out, unless you use a carbide end mill and literally plunge the material out. That's why it's so critical to do it once and correctly the first time. No room for error or mistakes.
    Click here to enlarge
    Burger Motorsports dealer
    Turner Motorsports dealer
    Bimmerworld dealer
    Active Autowerks Dealer
    Shipping built/stroked/CNC ported N54's Internationally!
    Follow us!
    http://www.facebook.com/BMWdoctor
    http://twitter.com/abrhouston
    http://instagram.com/abrhouston/
    http://abrhouston.com
    http://abr.genbook.com Book online appointments!

  9. #159
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    884
    Rep Points
    1,435.3
    Mentioned
    16 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    15


    Yes Reputation No
    Has anyone got a quote on having forged cp pistons installed on their n54? I sent an email into VAC and am waiting to hear back. Just curious what the average price for an experienced shop would charge.

  10. #160
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Naples, FL
    Posts
    2,086
    Rep Points
    2,146.2
    Mentioned
    70 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    22



    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bmw335iguy Click here to enlarge
    Has anyone got a quote on having forged cp pistons installed on their n54? I sent an email into VAC and am waiting to hear back. Just curious what the average price for an experienced shop would charge.
    Im interested in this as well




  11. #161
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Clarksville, TN
    Posts
    3,868
    Rep Points
    2,450.1
    Mentioned
    44 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    25


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bmw335iguy Click here to enlarge
    Has anyone got a quote on having forged cp pistons installed on their n54? I sent an email into VAC and am waiting to hear back. Just curious what the average price for an experienced shop would charge.
    The issue here is I'm not sure I'd do drop in pistons on most N54s unless they're super low mileage. What do the masses here think about drop ins on a sleeved motor? It's prob safer to do it on a sleeved motor than it would be a non sleeved motor but droppins still scare me. Eventually the cylinder gets a hair out of round and the safest option is to bore and hone the block. I know some people hone the block while its still in the car. While this is very handy for drop ins and keeps the labor cost down it doesn't cure an out of round cylinder.

    Thoughts?
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  12. #162
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Clarksville, TN
    Posts
    3,868
    Rep Points
    2,450.1
    Mentioned
    44 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    25


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by E90SoFlo Click here to enlarge
    Im interested in this as well
    Problem is to save on labor costs you only want to remove the head once. So you should do head studs and rods/bearings at the same time. The studs and bearings are not yet available from what I understand.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  13. #163
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    131
    Rep Points
    190.0
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by mycoupe Click here to enlarge
    Correct me if I am wrong, but I remember people having issues from time to time switching to closed deck blocks with overheating because there was no longer the same surface area for engine coolant to transfer heat?
    Only on those decks where you didn't pay attention and blocked the coolant port in the head. The cylinder head isn't an open deck, so if you match the holes in the head to those in the block you will be good.

    Thanks,

    John

  14. #164
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    884
    Rep Points
    1,435.3
    Mentioned
    16 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    15


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigdnno98 Click here to enlarge
    The issue here is I'm not sure I'd do drop in pistons on most N54s unless they're super low mileage. What do the masses here think about drop ins on a sleeved motor? It's prob safer to do it on a sleeved motor than it would be a non sleeved motor but droppins still scare me. Eventually the cylinder gets a hair out of round and the safest option is to bore and hone the block. I know some people hone the block while its still in the car. While this is very handy for drop ins and keeps the labor cost down it doesn't cure an out of round cylinder.

    Thoughts?
    Thanks for the insight! I've never built a motor before so this is all new to me. So what your saying is that it would be best to bore the block over a bit and use a slightly larger piston as opposed to a drop in. Makes sense to me. Hopefully mike@vac can comment. I know that vac can make a custom cr but not sure if they can have cp make a larger than drop in piston. I was looking at a 135i that was real cheap and was considering using the money I'd save to have the cp pistons installed, but it does have 80k miles...

  15. #165
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    131
    Rep Points
    190.0
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bmw335iguy Click here to enlarge
    Thanks for the insight! I've never built a motor before so this is all new to me. So what your saying is that it would be best to bore the block over a bit and use a slightly larger piston as opposed to a drop in. Makes sense to me. Hopefully mike@vac can comment. I know that vac can make a custom cr but not sure if they can have cp make a larger than drop in piston. I was looking at a 135i that was real cheap and was considering using the money I'd save to have the cp pistons installed, but it does have 80k miles...
    CP can custom build just about anything for the application. Its just going to add to the cost of doing a custom piston/size.

  16. #166
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Clarksville, TN
    Posts
    3,868
    Rep Points
    2,450.1
    Mentioned
    44 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    25


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bmw335iguy Click here to enlarge
    Thanks for the insight! I've never built a motor before so this is all new to me. So what your saying is that it would be best to bore the block over a bit and use a slightly larger piston as opposed to a drop in. Makes sense to me. Hopefully mike@vac can comment. I know that vac can make a custom cr but not sure if they can have cp make a larger than drop in piston. I was looking at a 135i that was real cheap and was considering using the money I'd save to have the cp pistons installed, but it does have 80k miles...
    I don't have any experience building sleeved blocks that why i asked the masses. i know in non-sleeved blocks you don't want to do drop ins unless it's a low milage car. Maybe the sleeves hold up a little better and drop-ins would be ok. it would surely save you alot of labor costs if you could. i wouldn't want to do just pistons either though. i'd prob go all out and do rods/pistons, bearings, studs, etc.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  17. #167
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Cleveland TN
    Posts
    542
    Rep Points
    555.0
    Mentioned
    16 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    6


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigdnno98 Click here to enlarge
    I don't have any experience building sleeved blocks that why i asked the masses. i know in non-sleeved blocks you don't want to do drop ins unless it's a low milage car. Maybe the sleeves hold up a little better and drop-ins would be ok. it would surely save you alot of labor costs if you could. i wouldn't want to do just pistons either though. i'd prob go all out and do rods/pistons, bearings, studs, etc.
    With new OEM rings most engines won't even wear through their honing marks at 100K miles so I doubt anything it really out of spec from when it was new. I would think that the open deck design and the cylinders starting to move at some high HP given number would be more of a concern than a piston not "Perfectly" fitting the hole.In a perfect world you would always want to have a machine shop properly bore with a deck plate to make sure the cylinders are perfect. But with an open deck design at some point the cylinders will start to move around a bit. If somebody is that worried about getting everything perfect on an open deck block with high HP the only real safe way would be to get the block redone with proper closed deck cylinders, then you will have perfectly round, lined up cylinders that will stay that way.
    2008 135i - Cobb AP, JB4 G5 w/2Step&FSB, MS DP's, Berk street exhaust, AMS IC, VTT Inlets, UR Intake, ER CP w/Tial BOV, Spec 3+ & Steel FW, CDV delete, Quaife LSD, DSS Axles, M3 control arms, M3 rear SF bushings, M3 Trans bushings, SS brake lines. Pics

  18. #168
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    131
    Rep Points
    190.0
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bmw335iguy Click here to enlarge
    Has anyone got a quote on having forged cp pistons installed on their n54? I sent an email into VAC and am waiting to hear back. Just curious what the average price for an experienced shop would charge.
    Is the engine in the car? Engine out of the car?

    If the engine was inside the car I would expect a quote around $2200 to $2600 to have the pistons replaced. Now that may seem high, but I would get the engine rotating assembly balanced, and new bearings for the rods, mains and thrust. Do it right, do it once!

  19. #169
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    884
    Rep Points
    1,435.3
    Mentioned
    16 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    15


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by hpfpupgrade Click here to enlarge
    Is the engine in the car? Engine out of the car?

    If the engine was inside the car I would expect a quote around $2200 to $2600 to have the pistons replaced. Now that may seem high, but I would get the engine rotating assembly balanced, and new bearings for the rods, mains and thrust. Do it right, do it once!
    I don't know of any shops in CA that have any experience building n54's so engine would be coming out and shipped.

  20. #170
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    North Houston
    Posts
    1,294
    Rep Points
    1,637.4
    Mentioned
    111 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    17


    Yes Reputation No
    We are working frantically to bring something to the market.

    Its just a matter of time, please bear with me. I just hired 2 more guys this month, trying to make it happen for you guys Click here to enlarge

    i have about 5 N54s here I need to tear down and start getting a game plan together. Expect something by the first of the month.
    Click here to enlarge
    Burger Motorsports dealer
    Turner Motorsports dealer
    Bimmerworld dealer
    Active Autowerks Dealer
    Shipping built/stroked/CNC ported N54's Internationally!
    Follow us!
    http://www.facebook.com/BMWdoctor
    http://twitter.com/abrhouston
    http://instagram.com/abrhouston/
    http://abrhouston.com
    http://abr.genbook.com Book online appointments!

  21. #171
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Naples, FL
    Posts
    2,086
    Rep Points
    2,146.2
    Mentioned
    70 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    22



    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    We are working frantically to bring something to the market.

    Its just a matter of time, please bear with me. I just hired 2 more guys this month, trying to make it happen for you guys Click here to enlarge

    i have about 5 N54s here I need to tear down and start getting a game plan together. Expect something by the first of the month.
    Building race cars.

    Good to hear!




  22. #172
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    3,293
    Rep Points
    1,435.7
    Mentioned
    53 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    15


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
    I think that's the latest revision with the 9 blade turbines and the billet wheels. I would call it Stage 2.1 or Stage 2 Rev. 2, as it still utilizes the stock housings, just with the next progression of wheels.
    ahh right

    whenever anyone posts up a new number i get confused and excited haha
    boop

  23. #173
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    3,293
    Rep Points
    1,435.7
    Mentioned
    53 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    15


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
    They are like helicoils. The advantage is the timercert requires a bigger hole to be drilled, so it kind of gives you the benefit of a bigger bolt (more surface area for the threads). And it is steel, so when you thread in the actual bolt, it threads into steel instead of aluminum, so it gives a strength advantage in that regard as well.
    ahhh ok thanks, that makes sense

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    timcerts are DEFINATELY not cheap, compared to heli-coils. The inserts are about 5-8 bucks each.
    they take much more precision and skill to install correctly. When installing them on a block, I prefer doing it on the Bridgeport, since I can get EXACT location and its perfectly straight.

    If the engine is in the car, i have a jig that works on M54 engines that utilizes a heavy aluminum plate that bolts on the block, with carbide guides that will hold the drill bits and taps straight on the block.

    i have done probably 30+ M54's like this. When they overheat(head gasket pops), the block aluminum anneals, and pulls the threads when you put the head back on.

    Timecerts are without a doubt MUCH stronger platform than whatever bolt it replaced. The quote below is right on target.




    The other advantage is the insert "locks" into the material, so not only are you dealing with thread engagement, your dealing with an insert that is literally a delta shape inside a hole. It ISN'T coming out, unless you use a carbide end mill and literally plunge the material out. That's why it's so critical to do it once and correctly the first time. No room for error or mistakes.
    $5-$8 is cheap in the big picture (+$x in labour)

    i have no idea on how i'd go about getting it done though, assuming regular sized studs won't be available Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by V8Bait Click here to enlarge
    That is a common misconception. In nearly every application, a timecert is superior to a standard size bolt in the aluminum. They are the standard fix for many aluminum engines that experience head lifting. On Cadillac northstars and high power LS engines, the head can lift, pulling the threads out of the block. Since you drill the threads out and tap for the timecert, there is more surface area on the threads and thus stronger. Since it's steel, the hardware will not pull the threads out from the inside of the cert. Better than stock in all applications.
    ahh true, so it's used often if you're lifted a head and it's salvageable? fair enough.
    boop

  24. #174
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    3,293
    Rep Points
    1,435.7
    Mentioned
    53 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    15


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bmw335iguy Click here to enlarge
    Thanks for the insight! I've never built a motor before so this is all new to me. So what your saying is that it would be best to bore the block over a bit and use a slightly larger piston as opposed to a drop in. Makes sense to me. Hopefully mike@vac can comment. I know that vac can make a custom cr but not sure if they can have cp make a larger than drop in piston. I was looking at a 135i that was real cheap and was considering using the money I'd save to have the cp pistons installed, but it does have 80k miles...
    the piston they list is .5mm oversized, so you HAVE to bore it out

    they're not 'drop in'

    -Pistons are delivered 'first oversize' for an 84.5mm bore by default. If another size is needed, please request this.
    boop

  25. #175
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    3,293
    Rep Points
    1,435.7
    Mentioned
    53 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    15


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by hpfpupgrade Click here to enlarge
    Is the engine in the car? Engine out of the car?

    If the engine was inside the car I would expect a quote around $2200 to $2600 to have the pistons replaced. Now that may seem high, but I would get the engine rotating assembly balanced, and new bearings for the rods, mains and thrust. Do it right, do it once!
    yeah, around the $1000 mark+ alone to have the engine removed and reinstalled?

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    We are working frantically to bring something to the market.

    Its just a matter of time, please bear with me. I just hired 2 more guys this month, trying to make it happen for you guys Click here to enlarge

    i have about 5 N54s here I need to tear down and start getting a game plan together. Expect something by the first of the month.
    what are you trying to bring to market? :O
    boop

Page 7 of 16 FirstFirst ... 56789 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •