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  1. #676
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    On the serious note...I am glad people realize this site is more for technical info and decided to sign on, but then again the Alpina flash info is on here also!
    The main thing is it is surprising it took so many so long. But as long as it eventually clicks it's fine. Minds freed.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    we can definitely do that if your ever in New York.. I will take you to Peter Luger steak house and eat like KINGS
    This sounds perfectly reasonable to me as long as I pick the wine.

  2. #677
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by E90SoFlo Click here to enlarge
    haha I died.

    Thank you for all this @Cn555ic

    I need to find someone with a PC with a OBD cable @Eric335

    Than Ill get ahold of one of you guys!
    I have a PC but no OBD cable....

    I have a Bluetooth OBD2 reader if that helps, cost me like $20 on eBay. Im not entirely sure how to connect this to a laptop though.
    Click here to enlarge

  3. #678
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    This sounds perfectly reasonable to me as long as I pick the wine.
    Since you're paying the bill, just a heads up -- Peter Luger's only takes cash or their personal credit card Click here to enlarge
    COBB AP ProTune by Bren of ///Bren Tuning
    Akrapovic DP | Helix FMIC | Alpina TCM Flash | Walbro 450LPH Fuel Pump


    "The moment money becomes your motivation, you are immediately not as good as someone who is motivated by passion and internal will." -A. Senna

  4. #679
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    The main thing is it is surprising it took so many so long. But as long as it eventually clicks it's fine. Minds freed.



    This sounds perfectly reasonable to me as long as I pick the wine.
    What happen to my other request! Rep me son.
    Click here to enlarge

  5. #680
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by benzy89 Click here to enlarge
    Since you're paying the bill, just a heads up -- Peter Luger's only takes cash or their personal credit card Click here to enlarge
    I'll be ok.

  6. #681
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    What happen to my other request! Rep me son.
    I did...

  7. #682
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    I'll be ok.
    Didn't think it was gonna be an issue, just wanted to make sure you had the money clip handy.


    PS -- Thanks for the invite
    COBB AP ProTune by Bren of ///Bren Tuning
    Akrapovic DP | Helix FMIC | Alpina TCM Flash | Walbro 450LPH Fuel Pump


    "The moment money becomes your motivation, you are immediately not as good as someone who is motivated by passion and internal will." -A. Senna

  8. #683
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    I'm not about to pay for the entire forum Click here to enlarge

  9. #684
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    Oh man...i just hit up lugars 2 weeks ago when I was in town. Steak for four please...

  10. #685
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    3 out of 3 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    @Sticky...Made some changes to the DIY..please bring this thread to the first post...thanks




    DIY Guide to Flash Alpina B3 Flash:



    ************************************************** **********************************
    WARNING...If you dont know what your doing, dont be brave and blindly go into this advanced flashing of software into the TCU module.. If you mess up you can easily brick your tranny module and you will find yourself towing the car to the dealer and looking like a fool. If your not too confident in doing this, either pay someone or just do without it.....WinKFP is a very dangerous tool but yet its awesome and in terms of coding its pretty advanced.. Proceed after reading this warning if you choose to do so...

    ************************************************** **********************************




    This Alpina TCU flash works for model years 3/07 till present. If your production date is before 3/07, your out of luck and cant flash your car! Before you attempt this you should have some knowledge in coding and setting software. You need to confirm INPA software is working and communicating with car. If you dont have INPA communicating, dont move beyond this point and go back and do some more research on getting it to work.. There are plenty of DIY guides for setting up INPA, Ediabas, NCSexpert and WinKFP.


    You can purchase a proven cable that works...Please dont ask will this one work as it is cheaper if so...Buy one that is proven!
    http://www.one-stop-electronics.com/...&product_id=16

    ONE NOTE::: Please no PMs on how to set it up. You have to do some work yourself..

    Once you have configured your laptop properly, you need to download Spdaten 48.1 the full version for E89 chassis. Dont download the lite versions as it doesnt have the necessary files needed for flashing modules. There are torrent links around...Look for them! The E89 Spdaten needs to be imported to WinKFP. There are PDFs showing how to get this done, do a search! Once it correctly imported, then you may start the flash using Winkpf.
    First you have to run the Winkfp and configure it to work correctly...Here is the picture of what needs to be done in the configurations..

    Click here to enlarge

    Once your done with that part:


    Here we go:

    -Make sure your battery is good if not get a battery charger

    -Open drivers door and turn ignition ON (cluster guage on)

    -connect cable to obd connector of car

    -Load Winkpf software

    -Press (F1) comfort mode

    -Press (F3) Update ZUSB

    -Choose ECU GKE215

    -Press (F2) Choose ZUSB

    -Choose ECU GKE215 and next to it there will be ZB-Numbers..Find 7615835

    -Click ok

    -If you have done it correctly so far you will see at the top Assembly Identification number 7615835 (Alpina assembly line file) and it will automatically reference the software 7591971

    -Press (F4) Enter VIN ( make sure you double check you have entered the correct VIN numbers)

    -click ok

    -Press DONE (F8)

    -Press (F3) Program

    -Pop up window will say you can code the ECU 63 more times, click ok

    -Flashing begins and you will have to wait till it reaches 100%

    -once it reaches 100% it will pop up again saying you have 62 more times to program the ECU, click ok

    -Programming again starts, wait until this reaches 100%

    -If everything is done correctly, then you will get a pop up screen saying programming done, click ok


    -Shut off car by taking key out. Lock car with key, wait 5 minutes and start the car..If everything works correctly you will not
    have any warning signs or check engine lights...Enjoy your newly transformed AT Alpina B3 software


    -If everything works and the car starts without errors and its confirmed the gears are able to go into gear, then shut off car


    -Open INPA software and clear out the DME codes for N54 engine, and also from the transmission module itself....

    *****For some there will be a code 511B which will not clear as its a reoccurring fault code thats triggered by a faulty diagnostic test...Thanks to @Wedge1967 for digging up the SIB bulletin on this, thats major news that BMW is aware of it and its nothing of concern for those still on warranty! Great news.. Here is the SIB

    Click here to enlarge


    *****For some after the Alpina B3 Flash the paddle shifters no longer work. There is an additional coding required to get the paddles to once again work...Follow this link below to get to them functional again :

    Alpina B3 Flash Part II: DIY for not working paddles Shifters after flash

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/showthrea...rs-after-flash



    I have worked hard to get this Alpina B3 flash to where it is now so everyone can enjoy this without any glitches. If you feel that my DIY on Winkfp for flashing Alpina B3 flash and the other to get the paddle shifter working, helped in anyway, and you would like to make a small contribution for my efforts, I would be grateful and appreciate it..If not thats cool too!

    My paypal addy is
    ccnoner@aol.com

    Enjoy the flash!
    Click here to enlarge

  11. #686
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    Made some changes to the DIY..please bring this thread to the first post...thanks
    Done and repped.

  12. #687
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by torqdout Click here to enlarge
    Here's the video to my wacky tach jump. Sorry about the quality (phone video) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGPcSKcnz_k
    I am working with him to get this glitch working for the N55 platform. I just hope there is a solution! ..But so far every single aspect that the N54 flash festers have felt is also working for the N55 guys...
    Click here to enlarge

  13. #688
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Got some more miles on the car yesterday, I love how D mode allows me to not have to worry about going over 3k rpm before the car is warmed up.

    I also go my paddles to work following your other DIY, I was trying to manipulate my CAS trc file instead of the newly pulled EGS trc file. Once I figured that out it was smooth sailing.

    S and M mode are insane how much more power seems to be carried into the next gear compared to before. The shifts seem somewhat faster but when measuring in milliseconds I can't imagine it equates to much. But the power going to the next gear is what shocked me, it pulled so hard immediately after it hit that next gear where as before it seemed to have a slight lag.

    Thanks again for finding this.

  14. #689
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Hmm, after driving for over 100 miles, I'm still getting the super hard downshift from M2>M1 or S2 to S1 when I come to a stop. It almost feels like the car locks up for a moment and then moves.

    Would that be a transmission issue? It feels really abrupt.

  15. #690
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by jyeah Click here to enlarge
    Hmm, after driving for over 100 miles, I'm still getting the super hard downshift from M2>M1 or S2 to S1 when I come to a stop. It almost feels like the car locks up for a moment and then moves.

    Would that be a transmission issue? It feels really abrupt.
    Can you do a video of it or record the noise. That is not normal from what I have experienced or head. Should be pretty smooth downshift.
    Click here to enlarge

  16. #691
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    Can you do a video of it or record the noise. That is not normal from what I have experienced or head. Should be pretty smooth downshift.
    I'll make a video on the way home today from work.

  17. #692
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by jyeah Click here to enlarge
    Hmm, after driving for over 100 miles, I'm still getting the super hard downshift from M2>M1 or S2 to S1 when I come to a stop. It almost feels like the car locks up for a moment and then moves.

    Would that be a transmission issue? It feels really abrupt.
    Like I said earlier in this thread when you mentioned it, GIVE IT 600 MILES.

  18. #693
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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Done and repped.
    Did you rep me also? Click here to enlarge

  19. #694
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Wedge1967 Click here to enlarge
    Did you rep me also? Click here to enlarge
    You guys on rep welfare or something?

  20. #695
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    People should not confuse adaption resets (that goes along with a flash) with the alpina behaviour. I'm sure the flash is an absolute winner, but some of the observations above sound more like adaption reset behaviour. Just my 2 cents.

    For example the high rev shifts on the original firmware are in most cases related to " auto adjustment" of the box to driver behavior. Hard driving will make the trans behave more aggresive, while driving like a granny will make the box become more conservative.

    If I still had my AT I would absolutely flash this software into it.

  21. #696
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    What do you guys think about resetting the transmission adaptations right after the flash of the Alpina software is complete?

  22. #697
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    I did not reset anything after my flash.

    All is working great! Love it.

  23. #698
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    I did not reset mine either nor the ones I flashed. They all work fine except for one kid that wanted to flash back to stock, But that I won't go into because the kid IMO doesn't know what performance is but whatever.
    Click here to enlarge

  24. #699
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    We flashed the shop car with this last night. Had a scary moment when the second flash failed. When car was cycled the dash had the gear symbol and would not come out of park.

    I have never had issues coding in the past but I did some troubleshooting and had to adjust com port settings slightly for the cable to get it to do a clean flash. INPA and all other tools functioned fine.

    For those of you using a crappy cable or that seem to have inconsistent flashing go to the advanced settings in your device manager for the com port of the flash cable and adjust the latency to the smallest number, also step your buffer sizes down. If you have a higher quality cable then these defaults might work. This will fix all the errors related to ECU communication and random fails while writing in most cases. NOTE: Changing these settings can slow down the flash time but it also improves the reliability.

    I'm also not sure if it was noted but anyone running JB4 or similar must by pass it with tune 0 to be sure.

    Don't assume you have a good battery or voltage just because it starts every time. Put a small trickle charger, battery maintainer, or HIGH quality battery charger on the battery before you flash if there is any doubt. A voltmeter is handy. A drop in voltage during the 10 min flash period can result in failure.

    So based on my experience I don't think you can "brick" the TCU very easily it seems, ours quit mid programming and was repairable. My guess is that you just need to re flash until you are successful by starting the process from scratch after correcting any problems.

    My review on the flash is as follow after 150 miles so far:

    No unexpected codes stored after the clearing of the original ones and 5 min cool off period.

    We run a very aggressive tune with meth/water injection and the shifts seem to compliment the extra power nicely.

    I will note that D mode does seem to want to keep the rpms low, I think this is fine and an improvement for MPG and highway. Going to S mode provides fast, clean, and sharp response. I especially love the speed of the down shifts and the ability to get it into 2nd and 1st gear so quickly, this will be useful on the Autox tracks. The trans in M mode will still up shift if rev limit is reached, this I would have liked to see gone. I have also noted that the downshifts are so aggressive they seem to have no problem smacking the rev limiter or past in the right situation.

    I think that some of the idiot proofing has been removed, this is nice but I have been able to fumble around with the paddles to get the trans to do potentially damaging things. Rule of thumb here is don't be an idiot when manually changing gears, ie foot on the floor while down shifting. Treat it like you have more control and respect the fact you could hurt it being an idiot.

    I am experiencing the thunks and bangs some have described here, with the higher out puts this trans has always banged into gear a bit on the heavy tunes. The noises I hear and feel now seem to be just the result of even more aggressive shifts. I'm sure with 70k on the chassis that some of the motor mounts, trans mounts, etc are getting pretty worn which leads to a lot of thunks in the drive line.

    Ultimately I would recommend this mod for anyone running extra power over stock. My theory (its only that) is that with the faster firmer shift there will be less wear on the internals over time (less slipping) which might actually help. The other side of the coin of course will be the parts that now get shocked a little harder...Dunno...I'll take this mod over stock any day so far.

    FWIW: I think we are the first in the state of Alaska to do this one. 2008 335XI

    Seth
    P3 Import Autowerks
    Wasilla,AK
    907.355.6655 phone or text
    Last edited by turbosetch; 03-01-2013 at 08:42 PM.

  25. #700
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    my first cable was a pos. I ended up with one from euautohaus, you can tell the materials are better and the circuit board is of a higher quality. The better one was "guaranteed" to work by the seller, and I can say that it does.

    I'm guessing the issue is with the software inside and not the cable itself. The circuit looks to be identical.

    $40 experiment gone wrong with the first ebay special.

    Now if I could just get inpa to work properly.

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