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  1. #701
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    You guys on rep welfare or something?
    Haha, you have been raped... LOL I mean REP'd

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    Hey B&G's, PIR is open tonight in Portland OR and I'm headed out to see how the trans flash works out. Last years I ran flat 12's at 119 and that was pulling 375 on a Mustang. This year I'm pulling 435 so hopefully I'll be in the 11's and break 120's traps. Wish me luck. Post slips later.

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    The flash rocks so I spread some rep around. Click here to enlarge
    Burger Motorsports
    Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, N63s, S55s, and S63s!

    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please see http://www.burgertuning.com/emissions_info.html for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Wedge1967 Click here to enlarge
    Hey B&G's, PIR is open tonight in Portland OR and I'm headed out to see how the trans flash works out. Last years I ran flat 12's at 119 and that was pulling 375 on a Mustang. This year I'm pulling 435 so hopefully I'll be in the 11's and break 120's traps. Wish me luck. Post slips later.
    2nd gear launch!!! Click here to enlarge
    Burger Motorsports
    Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, N63s, S55s, and S63s!

    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please see http://www.burgertuning.com/emissions_info.html for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by turbosetch Click here to enlarge
    We flashed the shop car with this last night. Had a scary moment when the second flash failed. When car was cycled the dash had the gear symbol and would not come out of park.

    I have never had issues coding in the past but I did some troubleshooting and had to adjust com port settings slightly for the cable to get it to do a clean flash. INPA and all other tools functioned fine.

    For those of you using a crappy cable or that seem to have inconsistent flashing go to the advanced settings in your device manager for the com port of the flash cable and adjust the latency to the smallest number, also step your buffer sizes down. If you have a higher quality cable then these defaults might work. This will fix all the errors related to ECU communication and random fails while writing in most cases. NOTE: Changing these settings can slow down the flash time but it also improves the reliability.

    I'm also not sure if it was noted but anyone running JB4 or similar must by pass it with tune 0 to be sure.

    Don't assume you have a good battery or voltage just because it starts every time. Put a small trickle charger, battery maintainer, or HIGH quality battery charger on the battery before you flash if there is any doubt. A voltmeter is handy. A drop in voltage during the 10 min flash period can result in failure.

    So based on my experience I don't think you can "brick" the TCU very easily it seems, ours quit mid programming and was repairable. My guess is that you just need to re flash until you are successful by starting the process from scratch after correcting any problems.

    My review on the flash is as follow after 150 miles so far:

    No unexpected codes stored after the clearing of the original ones and 5 min cool off period.

    We run a very aggressive tune with meth/water injection and the shifts seem to compliment the extra power nicely.

    I will note that D mode does seem to want to keep the rpms low, I think this is fine and an improvement for MPG and highway. Going to S mode provides fast, clean, and sharp response. I especially love the speed of the down shifts and the ability to get it into 2nd and 1st gear so quickly, this will be useful on the Autox tracks. The trans in M mode will still up shift if rev limit is reached, this I would have liked to see gone. I have also noted that the downshifts are so aggressive they seem to have no problem smacking the rev limiter or past in the right situation.

    I think that some of the idiot proofing has been removed, this is nice but I have been able to fumble around with the paddles to get the trans to do potentially damaging things. Rule of thumb here is don't be an idiot when manually changing gears, ie foot on the floor while down shifting. Treat it like you have more control and respect the fact you could hurt it being an idiot.

    I am experiencing the thunks and bangs some have described here, with the higher out puts this trans has always banged into gear a bit on the heavy tunes. The noises I hear and feel now seem to be just the result of even more aggressive shifts. I'm sure with 70k on the chassis that some of the motor mounts, trans mounts, etc are getting pretty worn which leads to a lot of thunks in the drive line.

    Ultimately I would recommend this mod for anyone running extra power over stock. My theory (its only that) is that with the faster firmer shift there will be less wear on the internals over time (less slipping) which might actually help. The other side of the coin of course will be the parts that now get shocked a little harder...Dunno...I'll take this mod over stock any day so far.

    FWIW: I think we are the first in the state of Alaska to do this one. 2008 335XI

    Seth
    P3 Import Autowerks
    Wasilla,AK
    907.355.6655 phone or text
    Congrats on being the first Alaskan.. FYI the DIY guides out there on configuring the OBD cable is stated to set Latency to 1..If that number is default at 16 it will for sure give a data transmission disturb sooner or later...
    Click here to enlarge

  6. #706
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    I just want to let people know that BrenTuning has stated on their FB page that can modify the PCM programming, not just flash the Alpine software. I guess we'll see if anything comes of this.
    Click here to enlarge
    MOTIV750, MOTIV P-1000 PI, MOTIV/FUEL-IT! low pressure fuel system, AEM EMS/COBB AP, Aquamist HFS-3, ETS FMIC, SPEC stage 3+ clutch/SS flywheel, BC Racing coilovers and VMR wheels wrapped in Hankook RS3s.

  7. #707
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rader1 Click here to enlarge
    I just want to let people know that BrenTuning has stated on their FB page that can modify the PCM programming, not just flash the Alpine software. I guess we'll see if anything comes of this.
    Saw that too, something about him messing around with the HEX file -- Guess we'll see if he can improve on Alpina's work & tailor it to the power levels an FBO N54 produces
    COBB AP ProTune by Bren of ///Bren Tuning
    Akrapovic DP | Helix FMIC | Alpina TCM Flash | Walbro 450LPH Fuel Pump


    "The moment money becomes your motivation, you are immediately not as good as someone who is motivated by passion and internal will." -A. Senna

  8. #708
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rader1 Click here to enlarge
    I just want to let people know that BrenTuning has stated on their FB page that can modify the PCM programming, not just flash the Alpine software. I guess we'll see if anything comes of this.
    Great - it would be fantastic to be able to adjust and customize the TCU based on Tune, etc....
    07 E92 335I | JB4 G5 ISO | BMS E85 Flash | DCI | BMS DPs | Helix FMIC | Alpina TCU Flash | Walbro GLS392 | E70 | 429rwhp/474rwtq



    Click here to enlarge

  9. #709
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    Its funny now they come out with stuff like this...Tuners should have done this long time ago, but I guess with the success of this Alpina flash, there is money to be made.
    Click here to enlarge

  10. #710
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    Its funny now they come out with stuff like this...Tuners should have done this long time ago, but I guess with the success of this Alpina flash, there is money to be made.
    I think we should probably hold off until we see some actual results before we assume that any progress has been made.

    As far as i'm concerned, what you and wedge have done is the closest thing we have to an upgrade.
    Click here to enlarge
    MOTIV750, MOTIV P-1000 PI, MOTIV/FUEL-IT! low pressure fuel system, AEM EMS/COBB AP, Aquamist HFS-3, ETS FMIC, SPEC stage 3+ clutch/SS flywheel, BC Racing coilovers and VMR wheels wrapped in Hankook RS3s.

  11. #711
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by turbosetch Click here to enlarge
    We flashed the shop car with this last night. Had a scary moment when the second flash failed. When car was cycled the dash had the gear symbol and would not come out of park.

    I have never had issues coding in the past but I did some troubleshooting and had to adjust com port settings slightly for the cable to get it to do a clean flash. INPA and all other tools functioned fine.

    For those of you using a crappy cable or that seem to have inconsistent flashing go to the advanced settings in your device manager for the com port of the flash cable and adjust the latency to the smallest number, also step your buffer sizes down. If you have a higher quality cable then these defaults might work. This will fix all the errors related to ECU communication and random fails while writing in most cases. NOTE: Changing these settings can slow down the flash time but it also improves the reliability.

    I'm also not sure if it was noted but anyone running JB4 or similar must by pass it with tune 0 to be sure.

    Don't assume you have a good battery or voltage just because it starts every time. Put a small trickle charger, battery maintainer, or HIGH quality battery charger on the battery before you flash if there is any doubt. A voltmeter is handy. A drop in voltage during the 10 min flash period can result in failure.

    So based on my experience I don't think you can "brick" the TCU very easily it seems, ours quit mid programming and was repairable. My guess is that you just need to re flash until you are successful by starting the process from scratch after correcting any problems.

    My review on the flash is as follow after 150 miles so far:

    No unexpected codes stored after the clearing of the original ones and 5 min cool off period.

    We run a very aggressive tune with meth/water injection and the shifts seem to compliment the extra power nicely.

    I will note that D mode does seem to want to keep the rpms low, I think this is fine and an improvement for MPG and highway. Going to S mode provides fast, clean, and sharp response. I especially love the speed of the down shifts and the ability to get it into 2nd and 1st gear so quickly, this will be useful on the Autox tracks. The trans in M mode will still up shift if rev limit is reached, this I would have liked to see gone. I have also noted that the downshifts are so aggressive they seem to have no problem smacking the rev limiter or past in the right situation.

    I think that some of the idiot proofing has been removed, this is nice but I have been able to fumble around with the paddles to get the trans to do potentially damaging things. Rule of thumb here is don't be an idiot when manually changing gears, ie foot on the floor while down shifting. Treat it like you have more control and respect the fact you could hurt it being an idiot.

    I am experiencing the thunks and bangs some have described here, with the higher out puts this trans has always banged into gear a bit on the heavy tunes. The noises I hear and feel now seem to be just the result of even more aggressive shifts. I'm sure with 70k on the chassis that some of the motor mounts, trans mounts, etc are getting pretty worn which leads to a lot of thunks in the drive line.

    Ultimately I would recommend this mod for anyone running extra power over stock. My theory (its only that) is that with the faster firmer shift there will be less wear on the internals over time (less slipping) which might actually help. The other side of the coin of course will be the parts that now get shocked a little harder...Dunno...I'll take this mod over stock any day so far.

    FWIW: I think we are the first in the state of Alaska to do this one. 2008 335XI

    Seth
    P3 Import Autowerks
    Wasilla,AK
    907.355.6655 phone or text

    I don't want to hear any more excuses about "weather".. A guy in alaska did it, and tested it.. So get to it people.




  12. #712
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    Here's the link to my S2->S1 issue.

    The car's completely warm and have been driving over 30 minutes by then.

  13. #713
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    1 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    GUYS
    Can a tunning shop program this TCU B3 flash with the new ISTA/P or the only way is INPA

  14. #714
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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by chappy Click here to enlarge
    GUYS
    Can a tunning shop program this TCU B3 flash with the new ISTA/P or the only way is INPA
    READ THE THREADDDDD
    Click here to enlarge
    Instagram: Sammy0559
    VTX3's Click here to enlarge
    Got one more tow with AAA lets make it count Click here to enlarge

  15. #715
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    1 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Flashed mine last night - had similar issue to below, car went through the quick and then first long 0-100 and when car reset, software lost connectivity to the car and I got the transmission symbol on the dash a terrible idrive error message and the gear shift was locked in park. Also got all kinds of weird and terrible codes on the ECU. Cleared everything and adjusted the parameters on the com port. Never had any issues with NCSExpert, but with the long programming cycle, needed to make changes from default.

    In advanced settings for the com port (usb to com1) I set the following and everything worked perfect as described in the instructions.

    These are applicable to Windows 7 32-bit

    So basic settings
    9600 BPS,8,None,1,None

    Advanced settings
    Receive Bytes 2048
    Send Bytes 2048
    Latency Timer 1 ms
    Timeouts Read 1000 ms
    Write 1000 ms
    Serial Emulator checked, nothing else checked

    Also, either run OBDsetup.exe mine was under ediabas\hardware\obd

    If you get any errors, check or add these settings in the registry and you should be all set (this is for USB Cables acting like a com port)

    [HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\servic es\Serial]
    "Tag"=dword:00000001
    "Start"=dword:00000001
    "ForceFifoEnable"=dword:00000001
    "RxFIFO"=dword:00000008
    "TxFIFO"=dword:00000008
    "PermitShare"=dword:00000000
    "LogFifo"=dword:00000000

    If you make any changes, reboot and you should be good.

    Rob

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by turbosetch Click here to enlarge
    We flashed the shop car with this last night. Had a scary moment when the second flash failed. When car was cycled the dash had the gear symbol and would not come out of park.

    I have never had issues coding in the past but I did some troubleshooting and had to adjust com port settings slightly for the cable to get it to do a clean flash. INPA and all other tools functioned fine.

    For those of you using a crappy cable or that seem to have inconsistent flashing go to the advanced settings in your device manager for the com port of the flash cable and adjust the latency to the smallest number, also step your buffer sizes down. If you have a higher quality cable then these defaults might work. This will fix all the errors related to ECU communication and random fails while writing in most cases. NOTE: Changing these settings can slow down the flash time but it also improves the reliability.

    I'm also not sure if it was noted but anyone running JB4 or similar must by pass it with tune 0 to be sure.

    Don't assume you have a good battery or voltage just because it starts every time. Put a small trickle charger, battery maintainer, or HIGH quality battery charger on the battery before you flash if there is any doubt. A voltmeter is handy. A drop in voltage during the 10 min flash period can result in failure.

    So based on my experience I don't think you can "brick" the TCU very easily it seems, ours quit mid programming and was repairable. My guess is that you just need to re flash until you are successful by starting the process from scratch after correcting any problems.

    My review on the flash is as follow after 150 miles so far:

    No unexpected codes stored after the clearing of the original ones and 5 min cool off period.

    We run a very aggressive tune with meth/water injection and the shifts seem to compliment the extra power nicely.

    I will note that D mode does seem to want to keep the rpms low, I think this is fine and an improvement for MPG and highway. Going to S mode provides fast, clean, and sharp response. I especially love the speed of the down shifts and the ability to get it into 2nd and 1st gear so quickly, this will be useful on the Autox tracks. The trans in M mode will still up shift if rev limit is reached, this I would have liked to see gone. I have also noted that the downshifts are so aggressive they seem to have no problem smacking the rev limiter or past in the right situation.

    I think that some of the idiot proofing has been removed, this is nice but I have been able to fumble around with the paddles to get the trans to do potentially damaging things. Rule of thumb here is don't be an idiot when manually changing gears, ie foot on the floor while down shifting. Treat it like you have more control and respect the fact you could hurt it being an idiot.

    I am experiencing the thunks and bangs some have described here, with the higher out puts this trans has always banged into gear a bit on the heavy tunes. The noises I hear and feel now seem to be just the result of even more aggressive shifts. I'm sure with 70k on the chassis that some of the motor mounts, trans mounts, etc are getting pretty worn which leads to a lot of thunks in the drive line.

    Ultimately I would recommend this mod for anyone running extra power over stock. My theory (its only that) is that with the faster firmer shift there will be less wear on the internals over time (less slipping) which might actually help. The other side of the coin of course will be the parts that now get shocked a little harder...Dunno...I'll take this mod over stock any day so far.

    FWIW: I think we are the first in the state of Alaska to do this one. 2008 335XI

    Seth
    P3 Import Autowerks
    Wasilla,AK
    907.355.6655 phone or text

  16. #716
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    Thanks Rob I will add this to the DIY on cable setup...
    Click here to enlarge

  17. #717
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    Oh and a few more data points.

    My car is a 2008 E93, build date of 11/07 MSD80 car, was replaced with MSD81 about a year ago due to the MSD80 failing.

    Car has also been updated to CIC Navigation which had no issues with the flash of the TCM.

    I do the the 511B code and it comes back after being reset, so looks like the upgraded MSD81 ECU doesn't fix the issue, only seems to fix the issue if the car came with MSD81 factory.

    Rob

  18. #718
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by jyeah Click here to enlarge
    Here's the link to my S2->S1 issue.

    The car's completely warm and have been driving over 30 minutes by then.
    Forgot to add the link ~_~"


    Sorry for the shakiness, you can hear it at the near the end of the video at 33 seconds.

    It makes that sound and it feels like the car's motion locks up momentarily.

  19. #719
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    I don't think the adaptation is going to fix this and I'm afraid it's actually somehow stressing the transmission in a bad way.

    Maybe I should have it reflashed since I don't think I've heard anyone on the forum with this issue.

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    Yeah that doesnt sound normal at all man...I am afraid its something with the tranny...Flash it back to OEM and see if it does the same thing...I have never heard that clunk at all in my car or the cars that I have flashed..Maybe possibly a bad tranny mount.. I dunno
    Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Terry@BMS Click here to enlarge
    2nd gear launch!!! Click here to enlarge
    Track sucked last night. Shifting was awesome. Third and fourth were hitting really hard and if I could have hooked up I think I could have ran some good times. Hopefully they will do a better job prepping the track. Although its still cool out, looked like everyone was down on trap speed. Even the awd cars were not running well.

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    Flashed a few more and no issues on my end.
    Definitely no word of any clunks like in that video.
    As Steve said it may be a bad mount. I'd go back to stock and then go for a diagnosis.

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    0 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Wedge1967 Click here to enlarge
    Track sucked last night. Shifting was awesome. Third and fourth were hitting really hard and if I could have hooked up I think I could have ran some good times. Hopefully they will do a better job prepping the track. Although its still cool out, looked like everyone was down on trap speed. Even the awd cars were not running well.
    Even though you couldn't hook up, how did you do last night?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    Yeah that doesnt sound normal at all man...I am afraid its something with the tranny...Flash it back to OEM and see if it does the same thing...I have never heard that clunk at all in my car or the cars that I have flashed..Maybe possibly a bad tranny mount.. I dunno
    The thing is with a bad tranny mount, I should be able to feel that in D mode as well right? And it should affect all the gear shifts not just S2->S1 or M2->M1. I don't know.

  25. #725
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    Yeah that doesnt sound normal at all man...I am afraid its something with the tranny...Flash it back to OEM and see if it does the same thing...I have never heard that clunk at all in my car or the cars that I have flashed..Maybe possibly a bad tranny mount.. I dunno
    Reset your transmission adaptations in INPA and you'll feel rough shifting for the first 100-200 miles, and that 2-1 clunk for another 400 miles afterward. Which means you'd be feeling it for a year or so at the rate you drive your car. Click here to enlarge

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