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  1. #26
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lorddrinkalot Click here to enlarge
    I just read in TIS about bleeding and connecting the Slavecylinder.
    Maybe we did something wrong there. It seems there is a specially procedure when the Slavecylinder is made of plastic.
    Honestly, that's what it sounds like.
    Click here to enlarge
    MOTIV750, MOTIV P-1000 PI, MOTIV/FUEL-IT! low pressure fuel system, AEM EMS/COBB AP, Aquamist HFS-3, ETS FMIC, SPEC stage 3+ clutch/SS flywheel, BC Racing coilovers and VMR wheels wrapped in Hankook RS3s.

  2. #27
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    I have broken in my stg2+ steel FW (non-SAC) and been giving it the beans... solid when driving aggressively. But I definitely have some loudish chatter in neutral and pretty bad with AC on. Shudder in 1st/rev is still strong and doesn't seem to be going away, even after multiple exaggerated slipping launches. I've just learned to live with it, revving higher then normal from static and "racecar" explanation for noise. Guess the 3+ has a smoother grab, but the chatter should be the same with FW type and maybe some slight variations with each tranny.

  3. #28
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
    Contact Spec if it isn't fitting. I like my Stage 3+ a lot. It is still grabby sometimes, but I haven't had a chance to really beat on it. To be honest I only use first gear in traffic and around the city if I want to go slow now. Usually I am starting in second gear. The clutch is strong and seems to not mind it one bit. Better launches in 2nd gear for sure since the AD08s can just barely hook that down low and slip it up top. First gear is useless.
    Curious on the 2nd gear launches. Do you have a VBOX or anything to quantify the launches? Are you using a 2-step and or what RPM are you lauching?

  4. #29
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by JoshBoody Click here to enlarge
    I have broken in my stg2+ steel FW (non-SAC) and been giving it the beans... solid when driving aggressively. But I definitely have some loudish chatter in neutral and pretty bad with AC on. Shudder in 1st/rev is still strong and doesn't seem to be going away, even after multiple exaggerated slipping launches. I've just learned to live with it, revving higher then normal from static and "racecar" explanation for noise. Guess the 3+ has a smoother grab, but the chatter should be the same with FW type and maybe some slight variations with each tranny.
    The stage 3+ is pretty grabby, but i haven't driven a 2+ so i can't compare the two. Also, i noticed then when trying to accelerate from 2Krpms in a higher gear(4th, 5th or 6th) there is some vibration that's kind of annoying. However, i'm sure that's from the SMFW and it's a super easy fix... downshifting to the proper gear Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge
    MOTIV750, MOTIV P-1000 PI, MOTIV/FUEL-IT! low pressure fuel system, AEM EMS/COBB AP, Aquamist HFS-3, ETS FMIC, SPEC stage 3+ clutch/SS flywheel, BC Racing coilovers and VMR wheels wrapped in Hankook RS3s.

  5. #30
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    is there anyone that can explain the difference between "non-SAC" and "SAC"

  6. #31
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by JoshBoody Click here to enlarge
    I have broken in my stg2+ steel FW (non-SAC) and been giving it the beans... solid when driving aggressively. But I definitely have some loudish chatter in neutral and pretty bad with AC on. Shudder in 1st/rev is still strong and doesn't seem to be going away, even after multiple exaggerated slipping launches. I've just learned to live with it, revving higher then normal from static and "racecar" explanation for noise. Guess the 3+ has a smoother grab, but the chatter should be the same with FW type and maybe some slight variations with each tranny.
    Do you have to rev higher when engaging 1st because of shudder or as a result of the lighter FW?

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rader1 Click here to enlarge
    The stage 3+ is pretty grabby, but i haven't driven a 2+ so i can't compare the two. Also, i noticed then when trying to accelerate from 2Krpms in a higher gear(4th, 5th or 6th) there is some vibration that's kind of annoying. However, i'm sure that's from the SMFW and it's a super easy fix... downshifting to the proper gear Click here to enlarge
    2000rpm? or around 2000rpm? can you be more specific as most use torque to accelerate in the 2-3k range instead of downshifting.
    FBO / HFS-4 / Cobb PTF tune

  7. #32
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by redlineryder Click here to enlarge
    2000rpm? or around 2000rpm? can you be more specific as most use torque to accelerate in the 2-3k range instead of downshifting.
    From about 1800-2000rpms. The torque is the reason for the vibrations. The stock DMFW really helps to absorb NVH and with a solid SMFW it really transmits the vibrations from all the torque down low. As soon as you get above 2Krpms the vibrations disappear. It's no big deal because you shouldn't be trying to really accelerate from that low anyway.
    Click here to enlarge
    MOTIV750, MOTIV P-1000 PI, MOTIV/FUEL-IT! low pressure fuel system, AEM EMS/COBB AP, Aquamist HFS-3, ETS FMIC, SPEC stage 3+ clutch/SS flywheel, BC Racing coilovers and VMR wheels wrapped in Hankook RS3s.

  8. #33
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    ^ that's good news
    FBO / HFS-4 / Cobb PTF tune

  9. #34
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    Curious about the vibrations....I swear I get a certain vibration that feels/sounds like an exhaust shield type vibration when I'm in the wrong gear and give it gas......could that be the same issue you guys are talking about? It doesn't bother me because it tells me I'm not driving the car correctly.
    Click here to enlarge

  10. #35
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    More than likely it's the same thing. I'll try and get a buddy to help me get some videos this weekend. I was able to put 150 miles of city/country road driving in today so i'll definitely have the clutch broken in in the next couple day.
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    MOTIV750, MOTIV P-1000 PI, MOTIV/FUEL-IT! low pressure fuel system, AEM EMS/COBB AP, Aquamist HFS-3, ETS FMIC, SPEC stage 3+ clutch/SS flywheel, BC Racing coilovers and VMR wheels wrapped in Hankook RS3s.

  11. #36
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    I'm also going to be installing a non-SAC Stage 2+ with steel SMFW shortly.

    Will be picking up the alum bellhousing bolts from dealer.

    Anything else I need?

    I assume that SPEC provides the flywheel bolts, but please correct me if I'm wrong.

    Thanks.

    Neil

  12. #37
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by MDORPHN Click here to enlarge
    I'm also going to be installing a non-SAC Stage 2+ with steel SMFW shortly.

    Will be picking up the alum bellhousing bolts from dealer.

    Anything else I need?

    I assume that SPEC provides the flywheel bolts, but please correct me if I'm wrong.

    Thanks.

    Neil
    Bellhousing bolts and some red loctite are the only extras you'll need. A press for seperating the bearing carrier is also a requirement. The install instructions say a rubber mallet will work, however a press makes it SOOO much easier.
    Click here to enlarge
    MOTIV750, MOTIV P-1000 PI, MOTIV/FUEL-IT! low pressure fuel system, AEM EMS/COBB AP, Aquamist HFS-3, ETS FMIC, SPEC stage 3+ clutch/SS flywheel, BC Racing coilovers and VMR wheels wrapped in Hankook RS3s.

  13. #38
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    IIRC the kit only comes with PP to FW bolts and you will need PP to engine bolts, correct me if I am wrong.

    Also can you use the below tool to remove the pilot bearing carrier? Also how do you install the carrier into the new flywheel? Or is that were the press is useful.

    Click here to enlarge

  14. #39
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    The flywheel to crank bolts get reused. The press is used to press out the bearing carrier and snout. Then to press the snout into the new flywheel.

    I reused the pilot bearing in the trans, it looked like it was in great shape and it looked like a PITA to pull out.
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    MOTIV750, MOTIV P-1000 PI, MOTIV/FUEL-IT! low pressure fuel system, AEM EMS/COBB AP, Aquamist HFS-3, ETS FMIC, SPEC stage 3+ clutch/SS flywheel, BC Racing coilovers and VMR wheels wrapped in Hankook RS3s.

  15. #40
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rader1 Click here to enlarge
    Honestly, that's what it sounds like.
    So we did the bleeding again. No change. Still the clutch is always engaged.

    I'm really pissed. And I don't really know what to do.

    I guess we have to take it apart again and start measuring. Or change back to stock and return the Clutch Kit.
    BMW 335i xDrive MT
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  16. #41
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Update:

    I think we found the problem.

    The whole Spec Clutch Assembly is ~7mm bigger/deeper than the original one.

    Also the Release Bearing has 5mm more length than the original one. I think thats the problem but will confirm with spec.
    BMW 335i xDrive MT
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  17. #42
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    glad u found it...

    but its a mess sending back ... waiting ... reinstall 2nd time.
    and hope it will fit o_0

  18. #43
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lorddrinkalot Click here to enlarge
    Update:

    I think we found the problem.

    The whole Spec Clutch Assembly is ~7mm bigger/deeper than the original one.

    Also the Release Bearing has 5mm more length than the original one. I think thats the problem but will confirm with spec.
    Can you provide the full measurements so that people can compare them to theirs.

  19. #44
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 654 Click here to enlarge
    Can you provide the full measurements so that people can compare them to theirs.
    Please! And pictures would be nice, indicating where you are measuring from.

  20. #45
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    Hey,

    So thats what I have gathered over the last few hours.

    both setups flat on a table:

    Measurements from Table to Fingers of the pressure plate:

    Stock: 9,7 cm = 3,82"

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

    Spec: 9,9 cm = 3,9"

    Click here to enlarge

    If you subtract that the flywheel mounting point for Stock is 1,1cm(0,43") and for Spec 1,2(0,47") less you get:

    Stock: 8,6 cm = 3,39"
    Spec: 8,7cm = 3,4"

    Click here to enlarge

    Measuring the Stock mounting point is not easy because you have to remove the pilotshaft so It should be +/- 1mm (0,04") but I don't think it matters to much. And also my Clutch has 100k km(63k miles) down and I don't know what that does to the height of the clutch.

    Than Release bearing height:

    Stock: 28,5 mm = 1,12"

    Click here to enlarge

    Spec: 33,5 mm = 1,32"

    Click here to enlarge

    So all together there is a difference of 7mm = 0,28"

    That does sound a lot like the problem @Itsbrokeagain was telling us about.

    I was in contact with jeremy @ Spec, he was very nice and tried to help me as much as he can. but because of timezone and my english knowledge it wasn't that easy. Also I'm no mechanic.....

    I will now use the Stock Release Bearing with the 28,5mm setting. That should give me enough clearance to the pressure plate. Now its 19:30 so shop is closed and I will continue tomorrow morning.

    Also Jeremy was sure the Spec setup is lower than Stock so thats why I got the higher Release bearing.

    I drive a E90 335i xDrive make 10/2008.
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  21. #46
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    Another thing, nobody was able to explain why my symptoms were like that. Because if there is always pressure on the pressure plate fingers the clutch shouldn't be able to connect.

    but in my case it was not able to release or connect it was always slipping. To much friction to get the gear in but not enough friction so it was possible to start the engine with gear inserted. really weird behaviour.
    BMW 335i xDrive MT
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  22. #47
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    The release bearing has 2 mounting points... maybe its different for Euro spec, although this would be strange. I do remember some mention in the TIS about this, but I thought it was for different models, not regions. How does the stack match up with the other bearing mount point?

  23. #48
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    yeah the stock bearing has 2 mounting points.

    28,5mm and 33,5mm Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

    I posted this a few weeks ago. Its from ACT install manual!
    My mechanic says it has two settings because its used in 4 Cylinder and 6 Cylinder engines and has nothing to do with region.

    @JoshBoody :
    I wasn't able to try if it works with the short mounting position.
    But the Spec Release bearing seems to use the long mounting position with the one they sent to me.

    I hope because the Spec Flywheel, Clutch and pressure plate assembly has nearly the same height as the Stock parts that it works with the shorter releasing bearing.
    Last edited by lorddrinkalot; 02-19-2013 at 03:18 PM.
    BMW 335i xDrive MT
    COBB Stage2+|Wagner FMIC|CPe-Downpipes|BMW Performance Exhaust

  24. #49
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    Interesting, when i placed my spec TOB next to my Stock TOB they were the same size.

  25. #50
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    hey guys, question .. trying to get the pilot bearing to match up and it doesn't seem to fit take a look at this picture do I need to do something special or what gives? Click here to enlarge

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