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  1. #126
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by DallasBoosted Click here to enlarge
    I guess I could always get the stage 2+ and stick with the SAC design. My concern is from previous cars where the clutch did not fully disengage (engaged so close to the floor that it was never fully disengaged) which ate my 1->2 synchro eventually. The SAC thing sounds pretty smart if it keeps the engagement point near the center of the pedal travel.
    This clutch will engage further off the floor than stock. ACT organic was the one that engaged literally 1/4" off the floor but I got used to it when I had it..SAC sounds like a better choice in your case
    Click here to enlarge

  2. #127
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    Hey I received my SPEC 2+ clutch & steel SMFW. I ordered the SAC variation but received the non-SAC (-2). Although, at this point I think I am going to keep it due to the increased torque capacity, normally higher cost, and mostly because the disc is sprung which I think should help with chatter. I originally wanted the SAC because the FW was heavier (25 vs 21 IIRC) and I thought that would help with chatter (but I didn't know it was an unsprung clutch disc.)

    Did everyone else's FW have these three partial welds (3rd one out of pic)?
    Click here to enlarge

    Lastly, with the SPEC clutch is there any other parts I need to order other than FW to engine bolts? Looks like the kit came with a PP to FW bolts, alignment tool, throw out bearing, & pilot bearing.

  3. #128
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    @ardesign at has a clutch install kit. There are some aluminum bolts that are one time use. They'll need to be replaced. I think there are a couple other things you'll need but its been a while since I did mine.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by TCW Click here to enlarge
    Hey I received my SPEC 2+ clutch & steel SMFW. I ordered the SAC variation but received the non-SAC (-2). Although, at this point I think I am going to keep it due to the increased torque capacity, normally higher cost, and mostly because the disc is sprung which I think should help with chatter. I originally wanted the SAC because the FW was heavier (25 vs 21 IIRC) and I thought that would help with chatter (but I didn't know it was an unsprung clutch disc.)

    Did everyone else's FW have these three partial welds (3rd one out of pic)?
    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...IMG_1471-1.jpg

    Lastly, with the SPEC clutch is there any other parts I need to order other than FW to engine bolts? Looks like the kit came with a PP to FW bolts, alignment tool, throw out bearing, & pilot bearing.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  4. #129
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    Sorry forgot to mention I already got the bell housing bolts. I meant more like slave cylinder, TO bearing arm, pivot pin, and stuff like that.

  5. #130
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    So I ordered Stage3+ and the Steel SMFW "non-SAC" Version.

    What parts should I order from my BMW Dealer?
    I'm planning to remove the CDV too.
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  6. #131
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    Just wanted to post this up for the guys attempting to do this on the floor. First in my opinion the cheap jack stands are only good for holding a car up on it's lower settings and definately never like being under a car while wrench on anything that could move the car slightly. I found a few other people online trying this method and found it to be very cheap and very stable which was the important part. I made several of these the tallest being where my jack maxes out in height for the front end. When I can I put these under the wheels but occasionally when the wheels have to come off I use the lower ones to support the jack stands but I still keep a jack under there if I can to assist.

    Click here to enlarge
    2008 135i - Cobb AP, JB4 G5 w/2Step&FSB, MS DP's, Berk street exhaust, AMS IC, VTT Inlets, UR Intake, ER CP w/Tial BOV, Spec 3+ & Steel FW, CDV delete, Quaife LSD, DSS Axles, M3 control arms, M3 rear SF bushings, M3 Trans bushings, SS brake lines. Pics

  7. #132
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    So I am out of the break in period and still had shuddering when starting from a stop. I did a few launches on a back road deliberately adding a bit more slip and higher RPM launch point and that cleared it up. I am still learning how to launch this thing though, but the clutch is clearly very strong. I want to add that the SMFW solves that grainy vibration sound you get at WOT in gears 4-6 below 3500rpm. You will only hear this if you're boosting over 15psi with a lot of timing and have a lot of torque on a DMFW. I have come to the conclusion that noise was from the stock DMFW deflecting to the maximum it could and the springs were then transmitting the vibration through the drive train. I bet if my torque stayed that high past 5000rpm that misfire might happen like they do for others in the 5500rpm area.

  8. #133
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
    So I am out of the break in period and still had shuddering when starting from a stop. I did a few launches on a back road deliberately adding a bit more slip and higher RPM launch point and that cleared it up. I am still learning how to launch this thing though, but the clutch is clearly very strong. I want to add that the SMFW solves that grainy vibration sound you get at WOT in gears 4-6 below 3500rpm. You will only hear this if you're boosting over 15psi with a lot of timing and have a lot of torque on a DMFW. I have come to the conclusion that noise was from the stock DMFW deflecting to the maximum it could and the springs were then transmitting the vibration through the drive train. I bet if my torque stayed that high past 5000rpm that misfire might happen like they do for others in the 5500rpm area.
    That's great to hear man, especially on that lower end vibration sound. I used to hear/feel that sometimes too, must be nice to clear that up as well.
    Click here to enlarge

  9. #134
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    Yeah, but SMF definitely transmits more vibrations in general. Also you get that drone/lugging sound until 2000-2250rpm if you're WOT in 5-6. I definitely understand why BMW used a DMFW now. Before had no problem high pedal in 5th at 1300rpm. No big deal, just adjust driving style and get a little worse economy.

  10. #135
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    Yeah, tradeoffs
    Click here to enlarge

  11. #136
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    just my 2 cents....

    Aluminum SMFW- chattered like a bastard but the rmp came up and settled much quicker even on cold start.

    Steel SMFW and while the RPM response is better than stock, its not as quick as the aluminum was but less chatter.

  12. #137
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    @rudypoochris, any notable updates?

  13. #138
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
    Yeah, but SMF definitely transmits more vibrations in general. Also you get that drone/lugging sound until 2000-2250rpm if you're WOT in 5-6. I definitely understand why BMW used a DMFW now. Before had no problem high pedal in 5th at 1300rpm. No big deal, just adjust driving style and get a little worse economy.
    Could this not be (at least partially) cured by balancing out the drivetrain components? Ok the engine would have to come out to do that, but a tuner in Germany does this with a steel SMFW and achieves very good results (i.e. very little vibrations).

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  14. #139
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    I just wanted to add that on my car(BTW I Bought bobS's car) with the spec 3+ and smfw below 2k the car basically bogs down. So in general when cruising around you want to be above 2k at all times. All this means for me is I stay in one gear lower than I normally would. So instead of being in 4th at 1.5kish I will be in 3rd at 2.2kish.

    Which is fine as you will be almost always in boost if you put your foot down.
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  15. #140
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    I also I have spec stage 3 + and SFMW.
    It has its advantages, but many disadvantages.
    It's loud, especially with the A / A on (I always carry on).
    You can┤t drive below 1500 rpm, if you don┤t want to feel the gears of the car.
    In 3rd and 4th gear feel even more car vibrations
    Make normal output in 1st gear is almost impossible,if you don┤t make like the fast and the furious.
    Otherwise well.
    I wish there was a DMF to endure power spec 3 + and SFMW,
    And if it were more powerful better hahahaha Click here to enlarge

  16. #141
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Torgus Click here to enlarge
    I just wanted to add that on my car(BTW I Bought bobS's car)
    Congrats!

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  17. #142
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by cupra Click here to enlarge
    I also I have spec stage 3 + and SFMW.
    It has its advantages, but many disadvantages.
    It's loud, especially with the A / A on (I always carry on).
    You can┤t drive below 1500 rpm, if you don┤t want to feel the gears of the car.
    In 3rd and 4th gear feel even more car vibrations
    Make normal output in 1st gear is almost impossible,if you don┤t make like the fast and the furious.
    Otherwise well.
    I wish there was a DMF to endure power spec 3 + and SFMW,
    And if it were more powerful better hahahaha Click here to enlarge
    You can use a dmfw it just has a little less torque capacity. Not a lot, but a little.

  18. #143
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by euro92 Click here to enlarge
    @rudypoochris, any notable updates?
    Weird coincidence, the clutch slipped today. Not good at all. I think it always has engaged too high and since I had the first unit and there were bearing height issues I may have that. In either case I am talking to spec and we will figure it out. Will keep posted.

  19. #144
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
    You can use a dmfw it just has a little less torque capacity. Not a lot, but a little.
    The problem is that the OEM flywheel is not designed to work with the huge amount of torque that the engine can put out, in particular with upgraded turbos. My own DMFW, despite being brand new, vibrated a lot immediately after installing the RB turbos. There have also been several confirmed reports about DMFW that broke apart, damaging the gearbox; which is also dangerous for your feet.

    Therefor, the DMFW is not really an option for those with highly modified cars.

    I know though that certain tuners are balancing the drivetrain when installing a SMFW. Tuningwerk in Germany is doing that for instance, and they seem to have achieved good (=vibration free) results. It seems to me that no one here has done that...or am I wrong?
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  20. #145
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
    Weird coincidence, the clutch slipped today. Not good at all. I think it always has engaged too high and since I had the first unit and there were bearing height issues I may have that. In either case I am talking to spec and we will figure it out. Will keep posted.
    Interesting. I have been concerned about how high it engages as well. If this thing roasts under 25k I will be pissed.
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  21. #146
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Alpina_B3_Lux Click here to enlarge
    The problem is that the OEM flywheel is not designed to work with the huge amount of torque that the engine can put out, in particular with upgraded turbos. My own DMFW, despite being brand new, vibrated a lot immediately after installing the RB turbos. There have also been several confirmed reports about DMFW that broke apart, damaging the gearbox; which is also dangerous for your feet.

    Therefor, the DMFW is not really an option for those with highly modified cars.

    I know though that certain tuners are balancing the drivetrain when installing a SMFW. Tuningwerk in Germany is doing that for instance, and they seem to have achieved good (=vibration free) results. It seems to me that no one here has done that...or am I wrong?
    Good point. I am not convinced its a balance thing though.

  22. #147
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Torgus Click here to enlarge
    Interesting. I have been concerned about how high it engages as well. If this thing roasts under 25k I will be pissed.
    Mine has like 17k on it. I am not too thrilled either.

  23. #148
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    There are stock cars carrying Monomass that do not present the problems that have the bmw.


    Somehow there will be to prevent vibration and noise.

  24. #149
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    is this the clutch the vishnu ST guys are using?
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  25. #150
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
    Good point. I am not convinced its a balance thing though.
    I guess we will know that once someone actually does a balancing of the drivetrain components and posts the results. Finances permitting, I should be in a position to do that beginning of next year.
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