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  1. #26
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    Looking for a lot more than 500 bhp, or I would just stick a used n54 in there and call it a day. Click here to enlarge

  2. #27
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by TLO03 Click here to enlarge
    535 build nice.. Step it up a bit, like 500+ hp 535.... is it an xi?
    It is an I with proper rwd Click here to enlarge

  3. #28
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    It sounds like you're going all out on this project -- Ported Cylinder Head, Upgraded Internals & whatever the baddest TT option is available at the time. My .02 says wait for the N54 ProEFI Unit to be released and go with that instead of ANY of the currently available options (COBB, JB4, PROcede, AA, GIAC, RENNtech, etc.).

    Their standalone will allow you to run ridiculous E85-/blends, NOS, etc etc on a ECU-module that is purpose built for it. The current options are all great, but I think that they're going to be "in over their head" with a build like this.
    COBB AP ProTune by Bren of ///Bren Tuning
    Akrapovic DP | Helix FMIC | Alpina TCM Flash | Walbro 450LPH Fuel Pump


    "The moment money becomes your motivation, you are immediately not as good as someone who is motivated by passion and internal will." -A. Senna

  4. #29
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    Bumping this thread for some advice... looks like I am not going to build the engine as stated before but rather just go back to stock. Here's the question at hand, any issues that anyone could think of that would arise if I were to buy a n54 from a salvaged 335xi and swap it into the 535i?

  5. #30
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by boosted5 Click here to enlarge
    Bumping this thread for some advice... looks like I am not going to build the engine as stated before but rather just go back to stock. Here's the question at hand, any issues that anyone could think of that would arise if I were to buy a n54 from a salvaged 335xi and swap it into the 535i?
    Make sure the engine is 100% healthy before you put it in. Otherwise as long as it's a direct N54 swap (since the 335xi & 535i both used the N54), it should be straightforward.
    COBB AP ProTune by Bren of ///Bren Tuning
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    "The moment money becomes your motivation, you are immediately not as good as someone who is motivated by passion and internal will." -A. Senna

  6. #31
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    You have to swap ECUs or get yours burned to accommodate the new engine. I don't think you can put a 335i ecu in a 5 without problems. + auto vs my and 4wd programs and concerns.
    LEMANS BLUE M-TECH E92->PROCEDE REV3::ETS 7" FMIC::RACELAND DPS::WAVETRAC DIFF::DEFIV DIFF LOCKDOWN::DEFIV OCC::DEFIV INTAKE::RB PCV

  7. #32
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    Hey OP, is that the Harbor Freight engine hoist? I need to get something like that:

    http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html

  8. #33
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by boosted5 Click here to enlarge
    Bumping this thread for some advice... looks like I am not going to build the engine as stated before but rather just go back to stock. Here's the question at hand, any issues that anyone could think of that would arise if I were to buy a n54 from a salvaged 335xi and swap it into the 535i?
    Oil leaks. I would at the very least do the rear main seal and others while the engine is out. Maybe fork over the loot for a new water pump depending on mileage. I would also take off the oil pan, clean it, inspect the back sides of the pistons and cylinders and crap and re assemble.

  9. #34
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    ah $#@! forgot a little tid-bit. Your cars ECU needs to be matched to the new engines injectors, unless you re-use your old ones. Just don't mix up the injector order.

  10. #35
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by uniter Click here to enlarge
    You have to swap ECUs or get yours burned to accommodate the new engine. I don't think you can put a 335i ecu in a 5 without problems. + auto vs my and 4wd programs and concerns.
    Well the DME (controls engine/performance parameters) and the ECU are separate entities (that's how ProEFI plans to maintain comfort access while tuning the engine). The trans is probably the biggest hurdle since the DME programming might be connected.
    COBB AP ProTune by Bren of ///Bren Tuning
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    "The moment money becomes your motivation, you are immediately not as good as someone who is motivated by passion and internal will." -A. Senna

  11. #36
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by boosted5 Click here to enlarge
    Bumping this thread for some advice... looks like I am not going to build the engine as stated before but rather just go back to stock. Here's the question at hand, any issues that anyone could think of that would arise if I were to buy a n54 from a salvaged 335xi and swap it into the 535i?
    Who's doing all the wrenching? Have you established that your shortblock is absolutely toast?

    I've worked on plenty of engines that bent valves before and unless you did something real obviously bad to the pisotns or cyl walls, there's probably at least a good chance the block is fine and you just need headwork, timing chain etc.

    Any pix of the engine or head?

    If the head casting is damaged I might buy it off you for a few bucks.

    I hope it works out for you in any case.

  12. #37
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by benzy89 Click here to enlarge
    Well the DME (controls engine/performance parameters) and the ECU are separate entities (that's how ProEFI plans to maintain comfort access while tuning the engine). The trans is probably the biggest hurdle since the DME programming might be connected.
    Sure but both the DME and ECU sit in the same box, ostensibly on the same board, no?
    LEMANS BLUE M-TECH E92->PROCEDE REV3::ETS 7" FMIC::RACELAND DPS::WAVETRAC DIFF::DEFIV DIFF LOCKDOWN::DEFIV OCC::DEFIV INTAKE::RB PCV

  13. #38
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    I did pick up the engine yesterday and it seems to be in pretty good shape, 34k miles and no leaks anywhere as far as I can tell. The only thing that I am certain we have to swap over seems to be turbos,oil pan, injectors and possibly my wiring harness which all can be done rather easy with the engines out of the car. I plan on replacing oil pan gasket and possibly valve cover gasket, anything else you guys recommend before putting this one back in? Hopefully I don't run into anything unexpected but will keep this thread updated regardless. Happy Sunday everyone

  14. #39
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by BavarianBullet Click here to enlarge
    Who's doing all the wrenching? Have you established that your shortblock is absolutely toast?

    I've worked on plenty of engines that bent valves before and unless you did something real obviously bad to the pisotns or cyl walls, there's probably at least a good chance the block is fine and you just need headwork, timing chain etc.

    Any pix of the engine or head?

    If the head casting is damaged I might buy it off you for a few bucks.

    I hope it works out for you in any case.
    There is no scores on the cyl walls or any bent rods, R and N bavarian, shop doing the wrenching, says the short block is probably still good although they are not 100%. Not sure how many bent valves there are because I decided against paying 24 hours of labor just to pull the head. When my car is finished and the old motor is out I will take some detailed pictures and possibly pull the head off the car and sell the block to get some of my money back that I just threw into this, or if it's not worth it might just take it all apart and post everything on here as a rebuild project but that's probably not going to be for a while.

  15. #40
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    ive been waiting for pistons from cp for a few months now so good-luck with that(sema and the holidays made it worse)

    also if you drop compression and go with RBs i think you will lose power. usually ppl lower compression for high boosted cars and i dont see RBs or any other twin turbo upgrade making that kind of boost. if you do a big single now thats a different story
    Last edited by lamia2super; 01-06-2013 at 01:17 PM.
    Click here to enlarge

  16. #41
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    No reason to really mess around with the compression ratio since the tuning hasn't reached the point of unavoidable knock on race gas. It's possible once the Vargas Stage 3s come out (and some more home-built, big HP singles get made), that the compression ratio will have to be adjusted for max HP.

    lamia -- Have you tried contacting VAC Motorsports about the CP Pistons? I know they are a CP (in addition to SP, Arrow & Carrillo rods) vendor and they have N54 specific CP pistons & Carrillo rods listed on their website, ready to be ordered
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    "The moment money becomes your motivation, you are immediately not as good as someone who is motivated by passion and internal will." -A. Senna

  17. #42
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    I hear you re the value of pulling the head on an engine you may not be able to use. Glad to hear you found an engine worth swapping. I hope it all works out and doesn't drain the piggy bank too much!

  18. #43
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by boosted5 Click here to enlarge
    I did pick up the engine yesterday and it seems to be in pretty good shape, 34k miles and no leaks anywhere as far as I can tell. The only thing that I am certain we have to swap over seems to be turbos,oil pan, injectors and possibly my wiring harness which all can be done rather easy with the engines out of the car. I plan on replacing oil pan gasket and possibly valve cover gasket, anything else you guys recommend before putting this one back in? Hopefully I don't run into anything unexpected but will keep this thread updated regardless. Happy Sunday everyone
    tank it apart make sure it good then replaces all the bolts and gaskets because it not good to reuse those bolts once you unscrewed them. i bought an engine that looked good and turned out it had a bad piston and cylinder. might also be wise to change out the oil pump in the motor because that's the heart of the motor right their.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by benzy89 Click here to enlarge
    No reason to really mess around with the compression ratio since the tuning hasn't reached the point of unavoidable knock on race gas. It's possible once the Vargas Stage 3s come out (and some more home-built, big HP singles get made), that the compression ratio will have to be adjusted for max HP.

    lamia -- Have you tried contacting VAC Motorsports about the CP Pistons? I know they are a CP (in addition to SP, Arrow & Carrillo rods) vendor and they have N54 specific CP pistons & Carrillo rods listed on their website, ready to be ordered
    if im not mistaken i believe my shop order it threw VAC, which they didn't have in stock. either way mine are slightly customized for my engine. Carrillo rods were bit much for me and was going to take awhile to arrive so i went with another company for rods
    Click here to enlarge

  19. #44
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    sorry disregard this post
    Last edited by ChuckD05; 01-08-2013 at 12:55 AM.
    09 6AT 335i Coupe M-Sport - SOLD
    Current - 16 Jeep Wrangler - Few Mods
    Looking for a n54 project e90/e82

  20. #45
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by boosted5 Click here to enlarge
    I did pick up the engine yesterday and it seems to be in pretty good shape, 34k miles and no leaks anywhere as far as I can tell. The only thing that I am certain we have to swap over seems to be turbos,oil pan, injectors and possibly my wiring harness which all can be done rather easy with the engines out of the car. I plan on replacing oil pan gasket and possibly valve cover gasket, anything else you guys recommend before putting this one back in? Hopefully I don't run into anything unexpected but will keep this thread updated regardless. Happy Sunday everyone
    Mind letting us know what you paid?
    09 6AT 335i Coupe M-Sport - SOLD
    Current - 16 Jeep Wrangler - Few Mods
    Looking for a n54 project e90/e82

  21. #46
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ChuckD05 Click here to enlarge
    Mind letting us know what you paid?
    A clean 4400$. So RB turbos and a nice clutch lol, which honestly wasn't too bad considering what I am getting. What do you guys see as a reasonable amount of hours to swap them out, still haven't gotten a quote and would love to have an idea.

  22. #47
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    Just an update.. things are starting to come together nicely just waiting on spec 2+ to get here and we will fire it up. Thought i'd share some pictures and also see if anyone is interested in the block that was in my car which is sitting on my basement floor, or a suggestion as to what I could expect to get for it.
    Click here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlarge
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  23. #48
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by boosted5 Click here to enlarge
    Just an update.. things are starting to come together nicely just waiting on spec 2+ to get here and we will fire it up. Thought i'd share some pictures and also see if anyone is interested in the block that was in my car which is sitting on my basement floor, or a suggestion as to what I could expect to get for it.
    if you find out what it worth let me know because i to have a complete block thats locked up and laying around
    Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lamia2super Click here to enlarge
    if you find out what it worth let me know because i to have a complete block thats locked up and laying around
    Still no clue unfortunately. I want to take the head off and take a peak inside and was looking for a manual which I found but I am a bit confused, anyone have any insights on how to take it off. The valve cover is out, the picture above is what I'm dealing with. I would definitely be willing to take it COMPLETELY apart if someone could guide me, or someone in Chicago/nearby with some experience in these things help me tackle it over a beer and do a write up, would be cool but a long shot I'm guessing.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lamia2super Click here to enlarge
    if you find out what it worth let me know because i to have a complete block thats locked up and laying around
    I have seen short blocks that are listed on EBay for $2000 and heads that are not damaged listed for around $1000. I would gues you could get between $1500 to $2500 if you can find someone who wants to rebuild a motor.

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