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  1. #1
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    From stock to FBO in a weekend?

    Well, everything finally arrived. I have this weekend completely free and its all going on. Fingers crossed to get it all done on Saturday.

    Click here to enlarge

    Everything on the table consists of:

    COBB AP
    VRSF 7" FMIC with new couplers
    VRSF 3" DPs with new gaskets
    aFe Pro Dry S drop in
    6 new spark plugs
    Oil change kit

    Any tips overall would be greatly appreciated!

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    NOT a problem, do you have a lift?

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    I did this, what a power difference haha! I had a shop do it though.
    Click here to enlarge
    ESS 6XX kit

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LostMarine Click here to enlarge
    NOT a problem, do you have a lift?
    Negative. Ramps and jack stands. I been under cars all weekend before with out a lift before. I dont expect to be comfortable by any means haha.

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    Everything is cake 'cept the downpipes. They will make you want to change your religion.
    Last edited by lulz_m3; 09-27-2012 at 07:09 PM.
    2011 E90 M3 \ Melbourne Rot Metallic

    Click here to enlarge

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    Does the FMIC come with new lower Charge Pipe (driver side)? Or do you use the existing? Removing the stock lower CP was a pain in the ass on my E92, the little rubber mount was hitting the radiator hose and couldn't remove it with out some help. Had to collapse the old rubber 90 and pulled it out from the top of the engine bay. Plus, I wanted to save my existing components just in case I had to go back to stock, so I was a little more careful.

    the passenger side you will need a dremel to cut away the one-time clamp, is the best way anyway. I am assuming you remove the existing passenger side coupling? Using a flat head may work but you end up denting the aluminum pipe that remains. And you are not guaranteed that the break-away portion is in your favor.

    Since this is a 7" you may have to remove the front bumper?? Or at least cut some away?

    Oh yeah, this was with jack stands. Wish I had a lift. Click here to enlarge

    I would put Charge Pipe with BOV or DV on your next list. The last thing you want is your CP blowing off when you are boosting 18 psi on S2+. The stock plastic CP are known to blow off and crack.
    Click here to enlarge
    PTF Pro eTune by Dzenno / COBB S1+ E50
    Alpina B3 Flash / ETS FMIC / ER CP / DCI

  7. #7
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ATP Click here to enlarge
    Negative. Ramps and jack stands. I been under cars all weekend before with out a lift before. I dont expect to be comfortable by any means haha.
    ok, i was gonna say, with a lift, it would be a non-issue. w/o, its of course still doable, but gonna need some rest and a way to vent your anger Click here to enlarge

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    DPs will be a pain... but once you're done and flash Stg2+ you'll be a very happy man Click here to enlarge

    Next meth and PTF or E85, or both Click here to enlarge
    SOLD --'07 E90 335i, PTF COBB E50, HFS4, ER CP, ETS 7", AA DP, Vishnu Exhaust, DCI, ACT, Nitto Nt555

    '10 E92 335i M, 6MT COBB v3, ER IC, ER CP, VRSF DP, Fuel-it st2
    installing soon: Mfactory LSD, , powerflex subrframe bushings

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42 Click here to enlarge
    Does the FMIC come with new lower Charge Pipe (driver side)? Or do you use the existing? Removing the stock lower CP was a pain in the ass on my E92, the little rubber mount was hitting the radiator hose and couldn't remove it with out some help. Had to collapse the old rubber 90 and pulled it out from the top of the engine bay. Plus, I wanted to save my existing components just in case I had to go back to stock, so I was a little more careful.

    the passenger side you will need a dremel to cut away the one-time clamp, is the best way anyway. I am assuming you remove the existing passenger side coupling? Using a flat head may work but you end up denting the aluminum pipe that remains. And you are not guaranteed that the break-away portion is in your favor.

    Since this is a 7" you may have to remove the front bumper?? Or at least cut some away?

    Oh yeah, this was with jack stands. Wish I had a lift. Click here to enlarge

    I would put Charge Pipe with BOV or DV on your next list. The last thing you want is your CP blowing off when you are boosting 18 psi on S2+. The stock plastic CP are known to blow off and crack.
    The FMIC comes with plumbing to replace the stock couplers. So yea, I will need to remove the lower CP. I have a Dremel so I am not too worried about cutting the clamps away. I do not plan to remove the bumper but I might have to. There is certainly going to be cutting of the shroud.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LostMarine Click here to enlarge
    ok, i was gonna say, with a lift, it would be a non-issue. w/o, its of course still doable, but gonna need some rest and a way to vent your anger Click here to enlarge
    Haha, yea, I am thinking the v-bands will be the biggest PITA. If I can get those on without too much issue then the entier install will be cake.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by marv85 Click here to enlarge
    DPs will be a pain... but once you're done and flash Stg2+ you'll be a very happy man Click here to enlarge

    Next meth and PTF or E85, or both Click here to enlarge
    Yea, I will see on the DPs. I have heard horror stories but I am not too worried yet. PTF probably in the spring but no E85 in CT Click here to enlarge.

    Side note; I bought my COBB AP used, should it come with a CD and USB cable?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ATP Click here to enlarge
    Yea, I will see on the DPs. I have heard horror stories but I am not too worried yet. PTF probably in the spring but no E85 in CT Click here to enlarge.

    Side note; I bought my COBB AP used, should it come with a CD and USB cable?

    CD no, USB yes. You need to be able to connect it to the PC to download maps/updates, upload datalogs.

    Meth is awesome, I just finished my meth PTF tune with Dzenno and working on an E85 one Click here to enlarge

    Let me know if you have questions on AP install or maps...
    SOLD --'07 E90 335i, PTF COBB E50, HFS4, ER CP, ETS 7", AA DP, Vishnu Exhaust, DCI, ACT, Nitto Nt555

    '10 E92 335i M, 6MT COBB v3, ER IC, ER CP, VRSF DP, Fuel-it st2
    installing soon: Mfactory LSD, , powerflex subrframe bushings

  11. #11
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by marv85 Click here to enlarge
    CD no, USB yes. You need to be able to connect it to the PC to download maps/updates, upload datalogs.

    Meth is awesome, I just finished my meth PTF tune with Dzenno and working on an E85 one Click here to enlarge

    Let me know if you have questions on AP install or maps...
    Ok, I figured I was supposed to get a USB. No biggie, I had one laying around and used it. Already flashed Stage 1 Aggressive. Flashing the ECU data to the computer as I type.

    *EDIT* AP Manager said it transferred ECU data to my computer, should I see that somewhere? AP Manager shows nothing under "ECU Data". Is it stored in the background somewhere?

    I am iffy on meth. I am waiting to see what PTF may come out with in terms of trunk mount systems. No way am I risking putting meth in the WW tank.
    Last edited by ATP; 09-27-2012 at 08:11 PM.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ATP Click here to enlarge
    Ok, I figured I was supposed to get a USB. No biggie, I had one laying around and used it. Already flashed Stage 1 Aggressive. Flashing the ECU data to the computer as I type.

    *EDIT* AP Manager said it transferred ECU data to my computer, should I see that somewhere? AP Manager shows nothing under "ECU Data". Is it stored in the background somewhere?

    I am iffy on meth. I am waiting to see what PTF may come out with in terms of trunk mount systems. No way am I risking putting meth in the WW tank.
    Yup it is stored in background...

    I have HFS-4 with trunk mount kit. It is an amazing high quality kit. I'd definitely recommend it.

    You went from no tune to stage1 agg , how does it feel?
    SOLD --'07 E90 335i, PTF COBB E50, HFS4, ER CP, ETS 7", AA DP, Vishnu Exhaust, DCI, ACT, Nitto Nt555

    '10 E92 335i M, 6MT COBB v3, ER IC, ER CP, VRSF DP, Fuel-it st2
    installing soon: Mfactory LSD, , powerflex subrframe bushings

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ATP Click here to enlarge
    Ok, I figured I was supposed to get a USB. No biggie, I had one laying around and used it. Already flashed Stage 1 Aggressive. Flashing the ECU data to the computer as I type.

    *EDIT* AP Manager said it transferred ECU data to my computer, should I see that somewhere? AP Manager shows nothing under "ECU Data". Is it stored in the background somewhere?

    I am iffy on meth. I am waiting to see what PTF may come out with in terms of trunk mount systems. No way am I risking putting meth in the WW tank.
    from what i understand, it save the stock ECU in the background in the AP. Its there, they did it to save some room i guess
    Click here to enlarge
    PTF Pro eTune by Dzenno / COBB S1+ E50
    Alpina B3 Flash / ETS FMIC / ER CP / DCI

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42 Click here to enlarge
    from what i understand, it save the stock ECU in the background in the AP. Its there, they did it to save some room i guess
    +1 , AP and Manager
    SOLD --'07 E90 335i, PTF COBB E50, HFS4, ER CP, ETS 7", AA DP, Vishnu Exhaust, DCI, ACT, Nitto Nt555

    '10 E92 335i M, 6MT COBB v3, ER IC, ER CP, VRSF DP, Fuel-it st2
    installing soon: Mfactory LSD, , powerflex subrframe bushings

  15. #15
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by marv85 Click here to enlarge
    Yup it is stored in background...

    I have HFS-4 with trunk mount kit. It is an amazing high quality kit. I'd definitely recommend it.

    You went from no tune to stage1 agg , how does it feel?
    If I get meth I will get the HFS-4 kit, I am just hoping someone comes out with a tank similar to Advan or someone finds a way to hide it in the wheel well. Just a bit more OEM looking I guess.

    No comment on S1 yet, didnt drive it. I will comment tomorrow after work when i get a chance to open it up a bit.

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    Thanks for the info on the stock ECU data!

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ATP Click here to enlarge
    Everything on the table consists of:

    COBB AP
    VRSF 7" FMIC with new couplers
    VRSF 3" DPs with new gaskets
    aFe Pro Dry S drop in
    6 new spark plugs
    Oil change kit
    That's awesome! You ordered some cool stuff. Want to hear how you like those downpipes and their fitment.

    Stage 2 or 2.5 E9X M3 S65 V8 supercharger kit for sale
    : http://www.boostaddict.com/showthrea...r-kit-for-sale

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    There is no need to remove the front bumper to put that fmic in.

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    Easily doable. For someone who knows what theyre doing, probably 4-5 hour install. Expect 50-75% longer if you've never done it before.

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    Generally:
    Get all the tools for the job out and organized!

    FMIC:
    Get a proper cutoff tool for the shroud. Cut the whole plastic support off instead of trying to 'trim' a few inches off the blades.

    DPs:
    If you're having difficulty, some shops will loosen up the engine mount to get a bit more clearance for this job. Wear eye protection as the gasket around the mouth of the DP has a tendency to flake right into your face.

    If you're doing DPs on ramps you'll need to drop your front sway bar in order to push your rack forward, IIRC drop the brackets 4x13mm nuts, then the endlinks which are 16mm backed by 17mm. Note the orientation.

  21. #21
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    if you remove your fan it will open a TON of room for the intercooler install, and you can tighten the clamps from the top of the engine... Makes life easier and takes 5 minutes to take it out and 5 to put it back... also makes it possible to dremel the clamp off from the top as well.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    That's awesome! You ordered some cool stuff. Want to hear how you like those downpipes and their fitment.
    I posted my initial thoughts in another thread, I will update that one with fitment thoughts as well.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by BoostAddict Click here to enlarge
    There is no need to remove the front bumper to put that fmic in.
    Good to hear. Seems simple enough to remove the bumper but I would prefer not to go through the hassle.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
    Easily doable. For someone who knows what theyre doing, probably 4-5 hour install. Expect 50-75% longer if you've never done it before.
    I projected 10 hours. I have not done anything on the N54 before but I have plenty of time under and over my last car so I know my way around a set of tools. Even had a V-Band on the last car so I know what to expect there.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by uniter Click here to enlarge
    Generally:
    Get all the tools for the job out and organized!

    FMIC:
    Get a proper cutoff tool for the shroud. Cut the whole plastic support off instead of trying to 'trim' a few inches off the blades.

    DPs:
    If you're having difficulty, some shops will loosen up the engine mount to get a bit more clearance for this job. Wear eye protection as the gasket around the mouth of the DP has a tendency to flake right into your face.

    If you're doing DPs on ramps you'll need to drop your front sway bar in order to push your rack forward, IIRC drop the brackets 4x13mm nuts, then the endlinks which are 16mm backed by 17mm. Note the orientation.
    I ran through all of the how-to's I could find and made sure I had every tool they mentioned. Anything I didn't have, I went out and bought.

    I have a dremel with the cut off wheels, they should cut the shroud without issue. I will have to take a look at the shroud when I am down there, didn't seem to hard to "trim" it in the videos I watched.

    Hopefully I don't need to go as far as loosening the mount. If I do though, you just loosen the bolt and leave it there? Do I need to support the engine?

    I have ramps but I will probably only use them to get to the central jacking point. From there I will throw it on stands for more height and to get around the steering rack issue you pointed out.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ChuckD05 Click here to enlarge
    if you remove your fan it will open a TON of room for the intercooler install, and you can tighten the clamps from the top of the engine... Makes life easier and takes 5 minutes to take it out and 5 to put it back... also makes it possible to dremel the clamp off from the top as well.
    Hmmmm, interesting tip. Off the top of your head, do you know where/how it mounts? Couple of bolts and an electrical connector?

  23. #23
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    No need to mess with the sway bar or motor mount. To move the steering rack, it's a 16mm wrench on top and a Torx socket on the bottom. Only loosen the driver side, you don't even need to put a wrench on the back side. The passenger side bolt will need to come out completely. You'll probably have to bend the heat shield out of the way to get the wrench on top.

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    The DPs will take you the longest for sure, just because of spacial constraints. First time took me 5-6 hours. I can do it in 2 hrs now, including a couple beers. You sound like you know what you're doing, so godspeed.

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    Dude, I'm jealous of your weekend minus the work part. You are going to cream your pants once you get it zipped back up. Stage 2+ is as advertised and then some!

    Do you have access to E85?
    Click here to enlarge
    PTF Tuned Cobb Stage 2+ | H&R / Koni Sport | BBS LM

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