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Thread: mixing atf question

              
  1. #1
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    mixing atf question

    how bad is it to mix atf? i gotta replace my transmission pan gasket and i can't get the lifeguard6 around here.
    i can get mercon sp or pentosin atf1.
    how bad is it to mix either of those 2 with the rest of the used lifeguard 6 ?

    anybody got experiences?

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    You're better off just replacing all the fluid.

    If those are both synthetic it is no big deal.

    What car is this for? 335?

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    yeah 2007 e90 335i with auto zf 6hp19z

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    Moving to N54.

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    bump, so anyone has done this? i know a lot of people have used different ATF.

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    I sent a sample of Mercon SP and LG6 to Blackstone for analysis. Both samples right out of the bottles. Blackstone reported that except for the color of the two ATFs they could have come from the same batch. I don't have a scanner or I would post the actual results.
    I conclude this to mean that indeed Mercon SP is compatible with LG6. I can't tell if Pentosin ATF1 or LT 71141 are. Mercon SP is cheap at 4.99 a quart from the O'Reilly's so once my LG6 is depleted I will start to use Mercon SP.
    Hope this helps you should not have any issues with using Mercon SP...

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by fun2drive Click here to enlarge
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    I sent a sample of Mercon SP and LG6 to Blackstone for analysis. Both samples right out of the bottles. Blackstone reported that except for the color of the two ATFs they could have come from the same batch. I don't have a scanner or I would post the actual results.
    I conclude this to mean that indeed Mercon SP is compatible with LG6. I can't tell if Pentosin ATF1 or LT 71141 are. Mercon SP is cheap at 4.99 a quart from the O'Reilly's so once my LG6 is depleted I will start to use Mercon SP.
    Hope this helps you should not have any issues with using Mercon SP...
    Thanks for the insight. i've read somewhere that turkeybaster also sent mercon and lifguard6 to blackstone and came out with the same conclusion. but i just haven't heard of anybody actually using mercon despite of this facts. hence i'm hesitant.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 335okc Click here to enlarge
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    Thanks for the insight. i've read somewhere that turkeybaster also sent mercon and lifguard6 to blackstone and came out with the same conclusion. but i just haven't heard of anybody actually using mercon despite of this facts. hence i'm hesitant.
    err......don't be hesitant. Just do it. Trust me, you'll be fine. I'm at 97K miles, w/ loads of track days, and the tranny is fine. Not changing the fluid ignorantly is what will kill it fast.

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    thanks to turkeybaster and fun2drive, i used mercon sp from o'reilly when i changed my pan gasket. fluid only cost me 32 bucks after tax lol. drain and fill is so simple that I'm willing to experiment.

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    I've been running Mercon SP for 20k miles with multiple track days. It was mixed with whatever LF6 that was left in the TC. No problems whatsoever. I even dumped some Castrol Multi Import in there (long story) and have no ill effects that I can detect.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
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    You're better off just replacing all the fluid.

    If those are both synthetic it is no big deal.

    What car is this for? 335?
    This is debatable. I don't know about this trans but I know some who argue the chemical shock factor. I had a Tundra with 50K miles on it that I had the dealer run the full flush machine that hooks up to the trans cooler and pumps clean back in when it collects the old so it was a 100% trans fluid change. 3K miles later my transmission started slipping and shifting funny. I have no proof that this was the cause and I know that's been done to countless other vehicles with no problems but it was a funny coincidence and I've never had a problem with trans slipping on any other cars after changing the fluid in the pan. The guys you argue about the chemical shock say to change more frequently and only change the pan so the fluid is constantly mixing.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by brusk Click here to enlarge
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    This is debatable. I don't know about this trans but I know some who argue the chemical shock factor. I had a Tundra with 50K miles on it that I had the dealer run the full flush machine that hooks up to the trans cooler and pumps clean back in when it collects the old so it was a 100% trans fluid change. 3K miles later my transmission started slipping and shifting funny. I have no proof that this was the cause and I know that's been done to countless other vehicles with no problems but it was a funny coincidence and I've never had a problem with trans slipping on any other cars after changing the fluid in the pan. The guys you argue about the chemical shock say to change more frequently and only change the pan so the fluid is constantly mixing.
    I think you raise an interesting point here and I am not familiar with chemical shock. Definitely something I would need to research but that's really weird it starting slipping after a 100% change.

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    i asked my father in law who is a mechanic instructor, flush is potentially more risky because the process of flushing might take the fluid and lubrication out of the valves and fiction plates that they might start sticking.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 335okc Click here to enlarge
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    i asked my father in law who is a mechanic instructor, flush is potentially more risky because the process of flushing might take the fluid and lubrication out of the valves and fiction plates that they might start sticking.
    Very interesting, thanks.

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    hm... my 3 to 4 shift is a bit rough when cold. i did reset adaptations but it's still rough. anybody got suggestions?

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    Hm good to know on the Mercon. Will be able to sell trans flushes at lower prices Click here to enlarge

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    Chemical shock?
    I would certainly like to hear what that is since my wife is a chemist and I am an engineer and she is still laughing.
    I had the same Toyota experience doing a flush vs draining and refilling and will never do a flush again. If you pull the pan and see all the material such as clutch disc and metal from the clutch plates you can see how that can coolect in a check ball and screw your transmission up. Doing a drain and refill will not do that. What I would like to know is what happens if you drain what is in the pan, drop the pan and clean it then flush?

    Either way changing the fluid is very important because it will build up with clutch and metal debris from normal wear and tear and no longer function as it should to take heat away and operate as a hydraulic fluid...

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by fun2drive Click here to enlarge
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    I would certainly like to hear what that is since my wife is a chemist and I am an engineer and she is still laughing.
    So no such thing?

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