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  1. #26
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    Way too full. Up the filler neck for sure. I was logging and going to track.I was 100% denatured alc. learned my leason real quick.When you have flames coming up your windshield at 130 its damn scary. I immediately pulled over and had to beat it out with my shirt. Like i said though i got a new cap and use duct tape as added security.no prob. since. This could have happened to me before as i launched at the track with a 70/30 mix. My car spun the tires like crazy and when i got back to the line they asked me if something was leaking from my car. Guy said it left a huge puddle.

  2. #27
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    I know duct tape is tacky but its better tha your car burning down. Some type of locking cap would be great but with no threads on the filler neck it may be hard to achieve.

  3. #28
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    I was probably a quart or so from the top. At least I can fix it myself. I would like to know where I can get the drivers side washer bottle. That would be pretty sweet with a lot less chance of burning my car to the ground. Live and learn. A buddy of mine let me drive his SWEET s-10 until my parts come in. I have time to pull my intake back off and take pics of my valves now after cleaning them with walnut shells.

  4. #29
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    If we can get a better understanding of what exactly is happening in these cases I'm sure we can design a better cap. If it was a quart from the top, then it's still at the thinner neck level correct? It seems it would take a lot of car movement to get fluid to come out the top even with no cap at all at the neck level. Maybe only filling it up to say 4" below the cap is a safer solution for heavier than 50/50 mix situations. That would still leave about a gallon in tank.

  5. #30
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    Sucks man...i've personally run my meth always from the washer fluid tank. Its been 2 years or more that way without issues. I don't use the washer fluid pickup/line though. Separate tap in the tank at the bottom.

    I do remember seeing my washer cap open after running the car once or twice but to be honest I'm pretty sure I forgot to close it Click here to enlarge Freaked me out but luckily nothing happened.

    I try to put zip ties every time i run higher than 50/50 meth on/around the cap just as a precaution. If you opened up my hood right now though, 100% meth is there but zip ties aren't. Just what ends up happening when we get too comfortable running this $#@! daily..
    Click here to enlarge

  6. #31
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    Yeah, it was almost at the bottom of the thin tube, I'm thinking when I turned right at the end of the track it sloshed the fuel out of the cap. I guess it was a perfect storm. Wheel hop popped the cap for me, and the turn poured it all over my white hot turbos.

  7. #32
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    Are your caps clicking on like this? It seems pretty damn tight once it's on!


  8. #33
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    That's a bit tighter than on my car but ya, its pretty tight for me too and that's why i never understood why/how i saw it open that 1 or 2 times after driving...i'd like to think i left it open by mistake
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  9. #34
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    I could have left mine open as well but ive found it open on a couple of occasions.dz where are you putting zip ties. did you make a hole in that tab or what? i only keep mine about half full.While we are on this subject,i run den. alc. only. Meth is hard to come by out where i live.I had emailed you terry when i was going to the track and running 100% and you mentioned it boiling in the staging lanes. Any danger with this and do you get the same issue with meth.If i make back to back runs i have to toggle washer switch.Maybe insulating the lines might help. Not sure if it boils in the lines only or in the tank also.

  10. #35
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    It has been proven through a lot of testing that 80/20 meth/water mix is the ultimate mix in terms of max power and detonation/pre-ignition supression on many platforms. I'm only running 100% right now for some testing but its really not my preferred mix. I run 50/50 on the street and 80/20 or higher at the track, depending on weather.

    In terms of zip ties, I just run them over the cap man, just run 2-3 zip ties, nothing overly tight or amazing. Just enough basically for the cap not to open on its own. Its not the greatest cap to zip tie. Tape also works. You can duct tape over the top and then zip tie around the filler neck over the top of the tape.

    Really we should all be running screw on caps instead of pop in/out.
    Click here to enlarge

  11. #36
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    So if my logs look good enough to run say a 55 additive 80/20 is sufficient? Duct tape is what ive been using. I tend to test on the way to the track and dont carry any extra alc. with me so i was filling it up as much as possilble. But also had a washer pump weeping so i was losing alot while parked and until i changed the pump i didnt realize how big that tank actually was. Since replacement i dont go through near as much. I was really losing alot.No boiling with 80/20 mix?

  12. #37
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    100% meth will start to boil at 60C (140F). Water boils at 100C (212F). Mixing it with water will raise the boiling point. However, depending on how you're routing your tubing there's always a chance it'll boil especially if its in the engine bay.

    For all engine bay setups I strongly recommended to everyone a good heat sleeve of some sort. Here's the stuff I run on my tubing:

    http://www.designengineering.com/cat...eeve-tape-kits

    Its a bit expensive but really effective at keeping heat as well as fire away from this stuff. Almost the entire line I have has this over the top of it. Meth tubing slides right inside perfectly.

    Fire Sleeve & Tape Kits


    $21.12
    Click here to enlarge

    SKU: 010470
    Constructed from a high temperature resistant braided glass material, woven into a sleeve and heavily coated with 100% iron oxide silicone rubber, Fire Sleeve provides the ultimate in heat insulation and protection from direct heat up to 500F.
    Each kit includes a 16-inch length of black Fire Tape to finish off ends of Fire Sleeve or when joining two Fire Sleeves together while presenting a clean and professional look.

    • Insulates wiring, hoses, oil / brake / transmission lines & more
    • Use for bundling and protecting hoses, electrical wiring etc.
    • Withstands 500F continuous / 2000F intermittent heat
    • Burn protection during under hood repairs and maintenance
    • Includes a 16 length of Fire Tape

    NOTE: Each size is available in custom cut lengths up to 300 ft. Various diameter
    sizes are also available as a special order


    Click here to enlarge

  13. #38
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    Now thats what i need thanks for the help. May look at re-routing lines.Just followed diy on ww meth kit.Do you guys think there is any restriction going through the ww pump any reason you tapped your tank dz?

  14. #39
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    Tons of flow issues going from the washer fluid line. Always losing prime and I've tried every single thing in the book. I only recently tried this option but it didn't work out well for me. Went back to my original setup with a separate dedicated pickup on the bottom of the tank right next to the washer fluid pump, and the pump in the front bumper on the passenger side, having the line come down and gravity feed the pump
    Click here to enlarge

  15. #40
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    Yeah i lose prime this way to. Im gonna tap my tank and be done with it.You use real methanol corrrect? Any testing done on den. alc. vs. meth? I tried. to look it up but found mixed opinions.I used to do the diesel tuning deal but only used 50/50 mainly to lower egt's.Im new to it on a gasoline engine so just trying to get the facts. You seem to do quite a bit of testing so i figured your the one who would know if anyone does.

  16. #41
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    If you're fighting with priming I'd just do a separate tap, put the pump in the bumper and you'll be done with it for good most likely. I've never run denatured alcohol as I have 99.9% pure meth at home depot which i mix with distilled water.

    You'll lose maybe 10whp on the street with a 50/50 mix and a large nozzle. Don't worry about having 80/20 or 100% meth on the street. You'll lose 2% of your power with a 50/50 over a 100%, its not worth it except when you're going for the numbers man...leave higher than 50/50 for the track.

    if you or anyone doesn't believe the 2% story hit the dyno and try it
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  17. #42
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    Im in texas and in the country and home depot here only carries alc. so thats what ive used.Im strictly jb4 i know your cobb and jb4.Do you lower your meth additive on the street? I have the ww kit and i take it you run a cooling mist setup. And ill take your word for it ive followed this forum for over a year but just started posting. Had a bad experience when i was new to the n54 on your favorite forum lol. Im just here to have fun and learn. Over here im comfortable. Dont get shredded for asking questions.Your help is really appreciated.

  18. #43
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    heh ya, my fav forum Click here to enlarge

    I've been off and on between cobb+jb4 and cobb only in the past few months. I've been running the coolingmist for a long time and honestly didn't have a great experience with that kit, mostly to do with the fittings and the flow sensor. I sold it recently and went with the HFS-4 from Aquamist. Much better quality in terms of fittings. When I tested the spray pattern on the nozzles with pure water initially it gave me goosebumps honestly, I'm not $#@!ting you. Their stuff is really top notch. Now, in terms of WOT performance you probably won't be able to notice a difference. However, it is really clear the atomization is better at least from what I've seen. They also now have a failsafe built in that pulls down the wastegate line making your car not build boost until the flow issue (low fluid in the tank, flow low, flow overflow, flow too slow to turn on) is resolved. Works well for me so far even though the beginning post-setup was a bit of a hassle to get going for whatever reason but Richard from Aquamist and Jeff Howerton from Howerton Engineering were nothing short of amazing in terms of support.

    At this very moment the car is running Cobb only although who knows what I'll end up with down the road. With Cobb only I have the HFS-4 failsafe running. I don't run boost progressively based on meth flow as Cobb doesn't support that and to be honest I don't want that feature. I want the car to run the way its been setup/tuned for max performance with meth/pump gas all the time. If something is off I don't want to run 72.53% of max performance or whatever. Needs to be fixed whatever it is and get the car back to top shape. That's just my personal preference. Nothing wrong with the progressive boost setup, its great too, and I've run that as well much longer than this current setup.
    Last edited by dzenno@PTF; 04-14-2012 at 07:48 PM.
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  19. #44
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    Yeah im stuck with mine for a month or 2 im gonna get some rb's ordered next week so im saving for install now.Ive been happy with the kit i have its better than no meth at all and terry has been super supportive. i know 1weekend we sent over 50 emails trying to fix a elect. issue. So i have the utmost respect for that guy. I was going to do install myself but everyone told me if you've never done it on this car to get a good shop to do it. Hell we lifted the cabs off of some of the diesels i upgraded turbos and studded the heads on. It cant be that bad.

  20. #45
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    Terry's support is truly one of the finest in this business...i'd classify it as instant heh
    Click here to enlarge

  21. #46
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    Yes sir i agree.

  22. #47
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    They also now have a failsafe built in that pulls down the wastegate line making your car not build boost until the flow issue (low fluid in the tank, flow low, flow overflow, flow too slow to turn on) is resolved. Works well for me so far even though the beginning post-setup was a bit of a hassle to get going for whatever reason but Richard from Aquamist and Jeff Howerton from Howerton Engineering were nothing short of amazing in terms of support.
    I'm not sure disabling the WG solenoid is fast enough in situations like this. I'd be curious how quickly boost drops in an event like this. Perhaps they should pull the TMAP sensor line higher so the ECU perceives an overboost situation and closes the throttle (and I believe pulls some timing).

  23. #48
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    What's a better alternative? I think no "failsafe" is perfect and you can only do as well as you can...

    This topic is hugely debateable and can be beaten to death...honestly dont want to even begin to go there Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    What's a better alternative? I think no "failsafe" is perfect and you can only do as well as you can...

    This topic is hugely debateable and can be beaten to death...honestly dont want to even begin to go there Click here to enlarge
    What's a better alternative? Well I just suggested one, but having a piggy pull timing and drop boost in an event like this seems much safer. Terry just needs to come out with a standalone failsafe controller for flash tunes but its likely not worth his time.

  25. #50
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    ya not sure, whatever works for you man...i dont believe in failsafes at all anyway but rather have one than not...true failsafe here thats been saving these motors is the DME itself with its knock detection and timing correction...every failsafe other than that IMHO is just peace of mind, however true or false that is
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