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  1. #51
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sikh335 Click here to enlarge
    ^^^^^^ not at all sticky I'm dumb as a stump money just falls from the sky to fund my toys. Lol. Keep making assumptions bud it will get you fairly far in life. Read the last sentence of your post I think you misunderstood what you wrote. Why would you say others are more deserving of our money when he is the first with everything on the N54 platform. He paves the way.
    I would be willing to bet you didn't make your money doing something you would want to brag about. Best case senario, you started a company and got lucky, it didn't take off because of your superior intellectual ability. Worse case senario, well, we wont go there.
    Click here to enlarge


  2. #52
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Laloosh Click here to enlarge
    I would agree here, however realistically this thing should be like 6 tops. That wont happen untill other simply undercut shiv with their hardware, the tuning side of it is a joke and he can keep that.
    I think someone will eventually copy the manifold and sell it for half the price.
    Click here to enlarge


  3. #53
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Rob@RBTurbo Click here to enlarge
    $8499-8999 would be my guess.
    Anything less than that would be a pleasant surprise. Problem is I don't think there is enough volume to warrant someone taking the time to copy and resell for significantly less without the volume. Even at 3000 for RBs they aren't selling volume to warrant a price drop. Now if turbos were selling like intakes and downpipes, then there is something to be said for copying and undercutting the design. I just don't see it to be honest.

  4. #54
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    I'm waiting for a nice option that'll cost 4-5k and it'll come very soon...would love it to be a twin scroll but we'll see..shiv has a complicated, although very nice, manifold which will hardly support fast high volume production so price will be high...it'll be your procede vs jb wars again, another company will come out with another solution, similar, but not the same in terms of design, but puts down the same numbers in the real world and costs considerably less...

    people will again naturally choose camps, start fighting wars, more $#@! gets developed, hp game goes on and on and on Click here to enlarge i wonder how many people actually have some hp goals with their car and if they know when is enough in terms of drivability...end of the day, you do need to drive this thing and if you can't put the power down what's the point
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  5. #55
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    I'm waiting for a nice option that'll cost 4-5k and it'll come very soon...would love it to be a twin scroll but we'll see..shiv has a complicated, although very nice, manifold which will hardly support fast high volume production so price will be high...it'll be your procede vs jb wars again, another company will come out with another solution, similar, but not the same in terms of design, but puts down the same numbers in the real world and costs considerably less...

    people will again naturally choose camps, start fighting wars, more $#@! gets developed, hp game goes on and on and on Click here to enlarge i wonder how many people actually have some hp goals with their car and if they know when is enough in terms of drivability...end of the day, you do need to drive this thing and if you can't put the power down what's the point

    No such thing as "can't put the power down" Simple solution, start racing from higher speeds, or actually stop running mickey mouse want to be drag set ups.

  6. #56
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Laloosh Click here to enlarge
    No such thing as "can't put the power down" Simple solution, start racing from higher speeds, or actually stop running mickey mouse want to be drag set ups.
    I'm talking average dudes man, that forums are full of and the ones that litter the shiv's turbo thread...when you say start racing from higher speeds, what does that mean for someone on say an m3 suspension with 7-800hp...what speeds do you have in mind? I go sideways NOW hitting 3rd gear WOT starting at 110km/hr (3500rpm) and torque is at bay at about 450wtq...

    on 295s on the back (street tires) I was ok in 3rd but i was rubbing...so fender modifications...anything is possible with enough money of course
    Click here to enlarge

  7. #57
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    Or get an automatic which is easier to launch than a manual. It's almost idiot proof actually

  8. #58
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by themyst Click here to enlarge
    Or get an automatic which is easier to launch than a manual. It's almost idiot proof actually
    boring Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge

  9. #59
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    I'm talking average dudes man, that forums are full of and the ones that litter the shiv's turbo thread...when you say start racing from higher speeds, what does that mean for someone on say an m3 suspension with 7-800hp...what speeds do you have in mind? I go sideways NOW hitting 3rd gear WOT starting at 110km/hr (3500rpm) and torque is at bay at about 450wtq...

    on 295s on the back (street tires) I was ok in 3rd but i was rubbing...so fender modifications...anything is possible with enough money of course
    60 mph, just because you have 295 tires in the rear, doesnt say much, its all about what tires you have in the rear. Its not only how wide you can go, it how TALL you can go.

  10. #60
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Laloosh Click here to enlarge
    60 mph, just because you have 295 tires in the rear, doesnt say much, its all about what tires you have in the rear. Its not only how wide you can go, it how TALL you can go.
    Well this past summer I was daily driving on MickyThompson ET Street DRs...1st, 2nd and hitting 3rd were leaving track behind me on the pavement..275/40/17 DRs...

    at speed, 60mph and up in 3rd WOT would be ok at those torque levels...add another 150wtq what happens then? anyways, i do see your point but i think some fender modifications will be required pretty soon to fit the right tire...depending on torque obviously
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  11. #61
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    Like i said there is no such thing as can't hook up. Get the right tire, play with tire height to alter gearing or play with the rear end itself to change the FD.
    Or you can runt he same drag set up every1 runs and complain you can't hook up lol. copy old boosters set up for the track, he was the only member that had SOMEWHAT of an idea about the proper wheel/tire set up. Even this auto launching in 2nd, is pure nonesense lol. If these guys launch and hook in 1st like they should, the times would drop even more, but instead of doing a proper set up, they rather start in 2nd to slow the car down.

    Seriously with all the little petty crap you worry about like cheap intercoolers and piping, did you ever think about looking into swapping your rear breaks with a 328i? I believe they are smaller and should allow you to throw a 16 inch wheel on there no problem, which in turn raises you tire choice from bull$#@! to a handful of real set ups.

  12. #62
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Laloosh Click here to enlarge
    Seriously with all the little petty crap you worry about like cheap intercoolers and piping, did you ever think about looking into swapping your rear breaks with a 328i? I believe they are smaller and should allow you to throw a 16 inch wheel on there no problem, which in turn raises you tire choice from bull$#@! to a handful of real set ups.
    Click here to enlarge actually i have thought about it but never went ahead with it as its not a dedicated drag car...i wouldn't go down to a 16" wheel either, i'd go down to a 15" wheel with some bias plys on the rear and skinnies on the front

    where did i say that I'm interested in making this car a dedicated drag car?
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  13. #63
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    So while we are at it, who wants to guess how long the block will hold? It does have magnesium in it. It will not hold up like the cast iron blocks in the E46 M3 and Supra.
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  14. #64
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by themyst Click here to enlarge
    Anything less than that would be a pleasant surprise. Problem is I don't think there is enough volume to warrant someone taking the time to copy and resell for significantly less without the volume. Even at 3000 for RBs they aren't selling volume to warrant a price drop. Now if turbos were selling like intakes and downpipes, then there is something to be said for copying and undercutting the design. I just don't see it to be honest.
    I guess we'll have to wait and see. It's funny though, since he's been marketing his kit on e90post I've had 4-5 fabrication shops ask me if we could work the tuning out if they designed a similar kit. Funny stuff. I guess now that they see how easy it is others are interested to cash in. Anyway we'll get the tuning hardware ready "just in case". Click here to enlarge

  15. #65
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge actually i have thought about it but never went ahead with it as its not a dedicated drag car...i wouldn't go down to a 16" wheel either, i'd go down to a 15" wheel with some bias plys on the rear and skinnies on the front

    where did i say that I'm interested in making this car a dedicated drag car?
    The above suggestions dont only apply to drag racing though. It applies to putting the power to the ground during your routine street fun. Lets be real you wont road race this car, so theres two types of racing left, drag and street.

  16. #66
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    16s will fit with custom rims if you grind the crap out of the brakes. I used to daily drive a 3200# car that had 1/4" front rotors. You could stop from 130mph once and then they would barely work again until they cooled down. Saved 35# off the front but not sure I'd want to do that to our 135i. Who knows though, maybe some day we'll make it a dedicated drag car. Click here to enlarge

  17. #67
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    6-700 whp puts the car in pair with a modern sport bike and how boring is that Click here to enlarge

  18. #68
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Laloosh Click here to enlarge
    Like i said there is no such thing as can't hook up. Get the right tire, play with tire height to alter gearing or play with the rear end itself to change the FD.
    Or you can runt he same drag set up every1 runs and complain you can't hook up lol. copy old boosters set up for the track, he was the only member that had SOMEWHAT of an idea about the proper wheel/tire set up. Even this auto launching in 2nd, is pure nonesense lol. If these guys launch and hook in 1st like they should, the times would drop even more, but instead of doing a proper set up, they rather start in 2nd to slow the car down.

    Seriously with all the little petty crap you worry about like cheap intercoolers and piping, did you ever think about looking into swapping your rear breaks with a 328i? I believe they are smaller and should allow you to throw a 16 inch wheel on there no problem, which in turn raises you tire choice from bull$#@! to a handful of real set ups.
    Hah, I do 2nd gear launches because it's much more consistent than trying to nail a first gear launch on street tires. There's no question launching in 1st with proper traction would net better ETs. Trap speeds not so sure.

  19. #69
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Terry@BMS Click here to enlarge
    16s will fit with custom rims if you grind the crap out of the brakes. I used to daily drive a 3200# car that had 1/4" front rotors. You could stop from 130mph once and then they would barely work again until they cooled down. Saved 35# off the front but not sure I'd want to do that to our 135i. Who knows though, maybe some day we'll make it a dedicated drag car. Click here to enlarge
    Rear brakes dont really do all that much. I doubt you would even notice the difference going to a smaller rear rotor and caliper.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Laloosh Click here to enlarge
    Like i said there is no such thing as can't hook up. Get the right tire, play with tire height to alter gearing or play with the rear end itself to change the FD.
    Or you can runt he same drag set up every1 runs and complain you can't hook up lol. copy old boosters set up for the track, he was the only member that had SOMEWHAT of an idea about the proper wheel/tire set up. Even this auto launching in 2nd, is pure nonesense lol. If these guys launch and hook in 1st like they should, the times would drop even more, but instead of doing a proper set up, they rather start in 2nd to slow the car down.

    Seriously with all the little petty crap you worry about like cheap intercoolers and piping, did you ever think about looking into swapping your rear breaks with a 328i? I believe they are smaller and should allow you to throw a 16 inch wheel on there no problem, which in turn raises you tire choice from bull$#@! to a handful of real set ups.
    +1 that is always something that kills me how people talk about going to the track and not having traction because they have too much power. The drag class I'm building a car for for example uses a 275/60/15 dot radial and they are running low 7's@180+ while 60' times are mid 1.1x's. When I get some real power out of my N63 first thing I'll do is buy a set of wheels and tires just for strip/street race use otherwise what's the purpose.

  21. #71
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Laloosh Click here to enlarge
    Rear brakes dont really do all that much. I doubt you would even notice the difference going to a smaller rear rotor and caliper.
    Yeah light weight rear brakes might be a good drag move. 15" rims/slicks should be fine but really cars are cutting 1.5s as is. What we really need to see is a dedicated 135i drag effort. Fully gutted, etc. Click here to enlarge

  22. #72
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Terry@BMS Click here to enlarge
    I guess we'll have to wait and see. It's funny though, since he's been marketing his kit on e90post I've had 4-5 fabrication shops ask me if we could work the tuning out if they designed a similar kit. Funny stuff. I guess now that they see how easy it is others are interested to cash in. Anyway we'll get the tuning hardware ready "just in case". Click here to enlarge
    I know you arent looking to make a kit, as you have discussed this already; but someone did a nice job with the N55 downpipe, whats a few more bends? Click here to enlarge lol
    Click here to enlarge


  23. #73
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Terry@BMS Click here to enlarge
    Yeah light weight rear brakes might be a good drag move. 15" rims/slicks should be fine but really cars are cutting 1.5s as is. What we really need to see is a dedicated 135i drag effort. Fully gutted, etc. Click here to enlarge
    1.5s is awsome, but 1.4 even better
    , you just nailed an 11.2 with a 1.6, with a 1.4 that would be 10.9s Click here to enlarge

  24. #74
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    Yeah but it isn't quite that easy. I think it needs more power or less weight to make it a sure thing. 200# more off the car along with a low 1.6 and it would run 10s for sure. But, the BMW community isn't quite like the domestic community. 10.9@123 is less impressive to them than 11.3@126. Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Terry@BMS Click here to enlarge
    Yeah but it isn't quite that easy. I think it needs more power or less weight to make it a sure thing. 200# more off the car along with a low 1.6 and it would run 10s for sure. But, the BMW community isn't quite like the domestic community. 10.9@123 is less impressive to them than 11.3@126. Click here to enlarge
    I'm at 13.0 @ 140 kinda guy myself.

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