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    N54 to turbo E36 some questions before i start

    I recently got engaged and my current fiance is wearing my 335i on her finger. It kills me not to have a fast car anymore. Ive been doing alot of research and I want to do a turbo e36 project. My goals are 450-500whp. My dilemma is do i go with a 328 or a m3. Do i go out and buy a kit from trm or technique tuning or do i do a custom one. Im doing this all on a strict budget. I will take all the pointers you have. currently im leaning towards a 328 doing a mls hg arp studs and a trm stage II kit.

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    Get an N54 and drop it into that e36? Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge

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    I wish dzenno. Im almost tempted to get a 135 cobb rbs and call it a day. I was fbo in the 335. i loved that car when it was running right and my cm clutch was working correctly lol I just the love the simplicity of obd 1 not having to worry about a million sensors and DI.

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    There's N54 engines long blocks with everything including turbos, oil pump, injectors selling for 3500-4000 these days...they'd probably throw in the DME with that as well...i think for about 6.5k you could do an N54 swap, first ever Click here to enlarge sensors aren't an issue when there's a code/monitoring for everything
    Click here to enlarge

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    dude...the sticky on the top of the FI forum at one of the other forums. read it. 550whp is available in kit form for under 10k (no clutch) on the stock dme. tuning by nick g. 93 pump gas. you'll waste any n54 car and have stock driveability.

    trm stage 2 is an excellent choice. doesn't really matter if you use a 328 or m3, finding a good example is more important imo.

    consider buying a car that's already done, especially if you just want to just 'get up and go'. there should be some good ones out there.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    There's N54 engines long blocks with everything including turbos, oil pump, injectors selling for 3500-4000 these days...they'd probably throw in the DME with that as well...i think for about 6.5k you could do an N54 swap, first ever Click here to enlarge sensors aren't an issue when there's a code/monitoring for everything
    Try adding another 10k to that number. Until someone comes up with.a way to get the dme to ignore the rest of the car not being there.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by black bnr32 Click here to enlarge
    dude...the sticky on the top of the FI forum at one of the other forums. read it. 550whp is available in kit form for under 10k (no clutch) on the stock dme. tuning by nick g. 93 pump gas. you'll waste any n54 car and have stock driveability.

    trm stage 2 is an excellent choice. doesn't really matter if you use a 328 or m3, finding a good example is more important imo.

    consider buying a car that's already done, especially if you just want to just 'get up and go'. there should be some good ones out there.
    I read that FI section a bunch of times already. I can't seem to find a solid answer on whether to go with a 328 or m3. Everything is opinion based. The m3 has a larger displacement so more hp can be had on lower boost. The m3 is also known not to be able to hold the power as well. I can get an s52 motor and tranny for cheap. I was just seeing if anyone went with a custom kit and regretted it, seeing it was easy just to go with a kit in the long run.

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    328 probably has lower compression right? Are the internal strengths the same? Head flow?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by SlicktopTTZ Click here to enlarge
    328 probably has lower compression right? Are the internal strengths the same? Head flow?
    no, yes, same

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by black bnr32 Click here to enlarge
    no, yes, same
    So the e36 M3 had no special engine? Not a "real" M car?

    Well then Turbo build I'd view them as the same. I'd buy the M3 just for chassis, suspension and looks.

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    If you get an e36 M go for the 1997 and up. It has the better engine. Turbo that, call it a day.
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    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

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    Yes different cams larger displacement I think a higher rev limiter to. Is it worth getting the m3 for the chassis.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 335ili Click here to enlarge
    Yes different cams larger displacement I think a higher rev limiter to. Is it worth getting the m3 for the chassis.
    Based on my 135i to 1M experience, YES!

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by fastgti69 Click here to enlarge
    If you get an e36 M go for the 1997 and up. It has the better engine. Turbo that, call it a day.
    95: 3.0L OBD1
    96-99:3.2L OBD2

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    Just get a 328 and boost. Cheaper and simpler.
    Some people live long, meaningful lives.

    Other people eat shit and die.

    I'm not racist, I hate everybody equally; especially fat people.


    Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 335ili Click here to enlarge
    Yes different cams larger displacement I think a higher rev limiter to. Is it worth getting the m3 for the chassis.
    IMO its not, as the M items i'd upgrade anyways. some of the major differences between the 2 are different shocks and springs, different sway bars, different fcab's and rtab's, different rear control arms, and different brakes.

    not a higher rev limiter

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by black bnr32 Click here to enlarge
    95: 3.0L OBD1
    96-99:3.2L OBD2

    Thank you for the clarification. 96 and up is the better engine.
    Burger Motorsports
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    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

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    its not that simple, but i know what you're trying to say

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by black bnr32 Click here to enlarge
    its not that simple, but i know what you're trying to say
    Click here to enlarge
    Burger Motorsports
    Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

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    I talked to TMR motorsports for a while today they have alot of good options. Im going to look for a 95-99 328i. keep your eyes open for me.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 335ili Click here to enlarge
    I recently got engaged and my current fiance is wearing my 335i on her finger.
    why didn't you just swap the real ring with a fake? She would never know and you would have both. It's the thought that counts, right?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 335ili Click here to enlarge
    It kills me not to have a fast car anymore. Ive been doing alot of research and I want to do a turbo e36 project. My goals are 450-500whp. My dilemma is do i go with a 328 or a m3. Do i go out and buy a kit from trm or technique tuning or do i do a custom one. Im doing this all on a strict budget. I will take all the pointers you have. currently im leaning towards a 328 doing a mls hg arp studs and a trm stage II kit.
    The 328 or M3 are great choices. I would choose the M3 personally simply because it comes with better supporting parts like the suspension and brakes.

    You can make huge power with either motor and arguably the 328 which has thicker cylinder walls I believe.

    These are both great choices and you won't miss your N54 at all with the power you will be making.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    There's N54 engines long blocks with everything including turbos, oil pump, injectors selling for 3500-4000 these days...they'd probably throw in the DME with that as well...i think for about 6.5k you could do an N54 swap, first ever Click here to enlarge sensors aren't an issue when there's a code/monitoring for everything
    A N54 swap is a step backward and a terrible suggestion for an E36. Sorry Dzenno, but an M50 or S50 will make boatloads more power for far less money. They are arguably better motors too... Actually, scratch that, I'll go on record as saying the S50B32 is a way better motor and even the S52.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 335ili Click here to enlarge
    I read that FI section a bunch of times already. I can't seem to find a solid answer on whether to go with a 328 or m3. Everything is opinion based. The m3 has a larger displacement so more hp can be had on lower boost. The m3 is also known not to be able to hold the power as well. I can get an s52 motor and tranny for cheap. I was just seeing if anyone went with a custom kit and regretted it, seeing it was easy just to go with a kit in the long run.
    It's a coin flip, both are great choices. It depends on how far you want to go. If going big the M50/M52 may even be the better choice.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by SlicktopTTZ Click here to enlarge
    So the e36 M3 had no special engine? Not a "real" M car?

    Well then Turbo build I'd view them as the same. I'd buy the M3 just for chassis, suspension and looks.
    It's a real M but not as good as it should be. The US motor unfortunately is not as good as the S50B32 but it actually lends itself better to turbocharging and supercharging without the individual throttle bodies. So, it was a blessing in disguise.

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