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  1. #26
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Yes, Turner Motorsport sells a dry sump kit.
    How many dry sumped S65's have had rod bearing failure ?

  2. #27
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LZH Click here to enlarge
    How many dry sumped S65's have had rod bearing failure ?
    I can't even count a single drive sumped S65 I know of.

  3. #28
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    Great Vid and explanation. Like I always say about Gintani bad marketing and slow to put info out there.
    Click here to enlarge



    EURO 04 M3 Current Mods:GC DAs, Eibach Sways, PF RTAB's, RE RCAs, INTRAVEE II, Black Roundels, ///MFEST Badges, Depo's, Screen protector for NAV display, VCSL Bumper + Race Lip & CF Trunk & CF Rear Diffusor, DIETZ TV in Motion, SS= V1 Headers + catless pipes + X-Pipe + SS Sport Exhaust, Z8 Starter Button, Lamin-X, OEM CSL interior, OEM CSL Steering, OEM CSL Intake, OEM CSL Roof, MSS54HP + OEM CSL Tune, BBS CH's, LIGHTWERKZ, 355mm ST40 BBK, BW Oil Cooler....

  4. #29
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Matt@Camber-Toe Click here to enlarge
    So what is the way to get around it? redesign the oil passages in the block?

    I remember the VG30 motors in the 300ZXs had poor castings for the coolant and oil passages inside the head. There was so much aluminum flash in the back of the head it was restricting flow, and Mike Kojima wrote up a good article on how to clear the holes out to allow an uninterrupted supply of fluid to the back cylinders..
    Dude you have good memory! The VG30DETT also has oil starvation and sloshing issues once you start to pull some real G's. Luckily for us there is a complete dry-sump conversion on the market, and it solves all the issues. It's about $5,500 though! Click here to enlarge

    https://specialtyz.com/shop/dailey-engineering-dry-sump-vg30de-tt.html

    A
    lso, ATi damper is the way to go!

  5. #30
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by SlicktopTTZ Click here to enlarge
    Dude you have good memory! The VG30DETT also has oil starvation and sloshing issues once you start to pull some real G's. Luckily for us there is a complete dry-sump conversion on the market, and it solves all the issues. It's about $5,500 though! Click here to enlarge

    https://specialtyz.com/shop/dailey-engineering-dry-sump-vg30de-tt.html

    A
    lso, ATi damper is the way to go!
    thats nuts. Dry sump for an SBC or LS motor starts at $1400 and all tricked out ends at like $2500 for a street setup Click here to enlarge

    Drysump for an S65...that must be $$$. Well look at Turners Daytona car, if they are running the setup we havent heard a peep about any reliability issues, and most people would have known any kinda failure since it is broadcast on TV..something happens to the car it would have been news immediately.

  6. #31
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Matt@Camber-Toe Click here to enlarge
    thats nuts. Dry sump for an SBC or LS motor starts at $1400 and all tricked out ends at like $2500 for a street setup Click here to enlarge

    Drysump for an S65...that must be $$$. Well look at Turners Daytona car, if they are running the setup we havent heard a peep about any reliability issues, and most people would have known any kinda failure since it is broadcast on TV..something happens to the car it would have been news immediately.
    Are you talking about their E92 M3 ? If so, that car actually runs the S62 out of an M5 and is pretty much stock. Very little motor mods for GT class. I'm sure the S65 motors Gintani are building make much more power than the Turner M3 GT. But, it would appear that from what Sticky said, he doesn't know of a rod bearing failure on any dry sumped S65's.

    @Sticky - is your build going to be dry sumped ?

  7. #32
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    Last year their E92's were running with S65 and their S65 had dry sumps. The S62 was chose to power up the M6's. Not sure about this year though.

  8. #33
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sorena Click here to enlarge
    Last year their E92's were running with S65 and their S65 had dry sumps. The S62 was chose to power up the M6's. Not sure about this year though.
    WRONG- It clearly says on the Turner site that for the 2011 season they ran E92 M3 with an S62 motor.


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    Class: Grand-Am Rolex GT

    Car #94:
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    Car #93:
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    This tube-frame chassis uses the bodywork from the BMW E92 M3 and the engine from the E39 M5. The #93 is a brand-new Riley Technologies chassis for 2011, assembled and built by Turner Motorsport in our race shop. The E92 M3 replaced the M6 GT chassis we raced with in 2010, which has since been retired from racing.

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  9. #34
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    You are right. I double checked, the car i was talking about competes in Grand Sport category not Grand Touring. that car has S65.

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    Regardless, if these rod bearing failures are common I don't understand why more people don't dry sump them when going for big power. That clearly supplies the motor with additional, cooler oil which is apparently needed when upping the HP past what the stock internals can handle.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    This is what I want to know. How do you solve this and why won't different bearings have a positive effect?
    Since Gintani says this seems to happen mostly to the rear half of the engine, I would think it is an oiling issue.

    If that is the case, different bearings will have a positive effect but bearing 4/8 would still see increased wear or a higher probability of failure.

  12. #37
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LZH Click here to enlarge
    @Sticky - is your build going to be dry sumped ?
    No...

  13. #38
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LZH Click here to enlarge
    Regardless, if these rod bearing failures are common I don't understand why more people don't dry sump them when going for big power. That clearly supplies the motor with additional, cooler oil which is apparently needed when upping the HP past what the stock internals can handle.
    It's due to the price being $7k: http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-14...-sump-kit.aspx

  14. #39
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Pricey yes....but doesn't it seem like a necessity when pushing these motors past safe hp levels ? Are you still running the stock oil pan ? Perhaps a cheap fix would be a better pan with trap doors, windage tray, baffles etc ?

  15. #40
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LZH Click here to enlarge
    Pricey yes....but doesn't it seem like a necessity when pushing these motors past safe hp levels ? Are you still running the stock oil pan ? Perhaps a cheap fix would be a better pan with trap doors, windage tray, baffles etc ?
    I would assume the stock pan, yes.

    I'm getting concerned about this issue now.

  16. #41
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    I would assume the stock pan, yes.

    I'm getting concerned about this issue now.
    I would be, too. But aren't you doing internals etc ? No reason why you couldn't do a better oil pan with a windage tray. Are you running stock rods and rod bolts ? I dunno man...most of this stuff breaks under prolonged road race conditions and I assume you will be doing mostly 1/4 mile ? Maybe back off the redline 1000 revs and up the boost ? Lots of variables to look at but I've had my fair share of catastrophic failures and they are never fun or cheap and I've learned do it the right way the first time and make sure it's bulletproof or you will end up spending twice as much later.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LZH Click here to enlarge
    But aren't you doing internals etc ?
    Yep, rods, pistons, etc.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LZH Click here to enlarge
    Are you running stock rods and rod bolts ?
    No.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LZH Click here to enlarge
    Maybe back off the redline 1000 revs and up the boost ?
    Lowering the redline is not an option, I kind of wanted to raise it.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LZH Click here to enlarge
    I've learned do it the right way the first time and make sure it's bulletproof or you will end up spending twice as much later.
    Basically you are saying do the dry sump?

  18. #43
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Yep, rods, pistons, etc.



    No.



    Lowering the redline is not an option, I kind of wanted to raise it.



    Basically you are saying do the dry sump?
    Yeah, I would, especially if you are going to be making the power I think you are...but not if it's gonna take another year Click here to enlarge

  19. #44
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LZH Click here to enlarge
    Yeah, I would, especially if you are going to be making the power I think you are...but not if it's gonna take another year Click here to enlarge
    I don't want to spend another $7k+...

  20. #45
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    I don't want to spend another $7k+...
    Hey, I hear you...but you are doing rods and I'd assume the upgraded rods have better bearings and bolts. I'd look into a bigger oil cooler though - that's a pretty easy and cheap upgrade and maybe even an Accusump ?
    I have Accusumps on my boat motors and I can tell you that they do work.

  21. #46
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LZH Click here to enlarge
    Hey, I hear you...but you are doing rods and I'd assume the upgraded rods have better bearings and bolts. I'd look into a bigger oil cooler though - that's a pretty easy and cheap upgrade and maybe even an Accusump ?
    I have Accusumps on my boat motors and I can tell you that they do work.
    I do have an upgraded oil cooler. I'll discuss this issue with Gintani and see what they say.

  22. #47
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    I do have an upgraded oil cooler. I'll discuss this issue with Gintani and see what they say.
    You know what they say, you gotta pay to play. Another 7k... damn
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  23. #48
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    You could always try to make a deal. Say and prove that you'll promote their product if they give it to you at a lower margin. 7K.... I could buy another twin-turbo 300zx for that much.

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    dry sump really shouldn't be necessary for sticky's application IMO.

    is it even possible to run a pulley for the dry sump AND a pulley for the supercharger?

  25. #50
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by black bnr32 Click here to enlarge
    is it even possible to run a pulley for the dry sump AND a pulley for the supercharger?
    Why not?

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