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  1. #26
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    For something like this I think you can troubleshoot it better than the dealer can, at least at this stage. So check the vacuum in the wastegate line first at WOT and that will eliminate a lot of things.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Terry@BMS Click here to enlarge
    For something like this I think you can troubleshoot it better than the dealer can, at least at this stage. So check the vacuum in the wastegate line first at WOT and that will eliminate a lot of things.
    Which line would that be exactly? Will "T"'ing off the vacuum tanks tell me what' you're asking for? Not exactly sure which is the wastegate line.
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  3. #28
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by yandyr Click here to enlarge
    Which line would that be exactly? Will "T"'ing off the vacuum tanks tell me what' you're asking for? Not exactly sure which is the wastegate line.
    The line post solenoid. There is one line running to each wastegate, and then each solenoid tees in to that one line. You can unplug the line from the OEM tee, then connect a mechanical vacuum gauge using another tee to complete the circuit. The solenoids let vacuum flow from the canisters to the wastegate actuators, which closes the wastegates, to build boost. So if there isn't enough vacuum there you won't make boost. First thing to test. If there is good vacuum there at WOT then you can use a hand held vacuum/boost pump tool to apply vacuum and ensure each wastegate fully closes. If that all looks good, then likely boost is leaking somewhere.
    Last edited by Terry@BMS; 12-20-2011 at 04:04 PM.

  4. #29
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Terry@BMS Click here to enlarge
    The line post solenoid. There is one line running to each wastegate, and then each solenoid tees in to that one line. You can unplug the line from the OEM tee, then connect a mechanical vacuum gauge using another tee to complete the circuit. The solenoids let vacuum flow from the canisters to the wastegate actuators, which closes the wastegates, to build boost. So if there isn't enough vacuum there you won't make boost. First thing to test. If there is good vacuum there at WOT then you can use a hand held vacuum/boost pump tool to apply vacuum and ensure each wastegate fully closes. If that all looks good, then likely boost is leaking somewhere.
    So here it goes; before you replied here I followed step 2c in this http://n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13114

    1) Went out for a drive, and damn thing boosted just fine, so my thought was, ok maybe the piece of vacuum line I cut off was cracked or something.
    2) Went back, and removed T and vacuum gauge and went for a drive again.. problem came back.. wtf?
    3) Put the vacuum and T back in, drove, problem persisted.. WTF? vacuum will stay around 18-20 on a 3rd gear WOT around 60mph, then drop to 10 and code will come up, or code will come up, then drop to 10.

    Explain that one.. specially #1..
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  5. #30
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    You'll just have to keep digging. If a code comes up and then vacuum drops, the code is likely triggering the solenoid to let less vacuum in. So then figure out what is triggering the code. But 18-20" of vacuum is normal at WOT when boost is building. So it sounds like you're back on to the boost leak or physical wastegate issue road.

  6. #31
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    Here's a funny one...have you tried uninstalling cobb and just reinstalling back...i had a weird issue with boost once when i didn't leave the key out of ignition for 30secs after reflashing...so i reflashed again, once it was done pulled the key out for a minute and then put the key back in and fired up...everything was fine after
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  7. #32
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    Here's a funny one...have you tried uninstalling cobb and just reinstalling back...i had a weird issue with boost once when i didn't leave the key out of ignition for 30secs after reflashing...so i reflashed again, once it was done pulled the key out for a minute and then put the key back in and fired up...everything was fine after
    Yea I've tried that, but code comes up even on stock software (cobb uninstalled) well it did at first, now it hits 7psi so it actually doesn't detect underboost. But boost is still slow as hell to build up.
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  8. #33
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by yandyr Click here to enlarge
    Yea I've tried that, but code comes up even on stock software (cobb uninstalled) well it did at first, now it hits 7psi so it actually doesn't detect underboost. But boost is still slow as hell to build up.
    crap! thought it might be a quick one...when i was testing for a boost leak i actually couldn't see it without pushing some air through the system..i still think in your case it seems to be a big leak somewhere...here's what i did to test for fmic hot side->throttle body plumbing leaks:

    Get this intake leak tester or coupler:
    http://www.frozenboost.com/product_i...093cf36af7e73b

    This thing can go on the fmic hot side (passenger side) and you plug an air compressor to the nipple (just like on a car tire)...just get your fmic disconnected on the hot side and mount this thing on the fmic inlet and run some air through it (to say 20-25psi)...easy as pie and you'll definitely hear a leak hissing somewhere OR you can for sure say its not a leak...
    Click here to enlarge

  9. #34
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    crap! thought it might be a quick one...when i was testing for a boost leak i actually couldn't see it without pushing some air through the system..i still think in your case it seems to be a big leak somewhere...here's what i did to test for fmic hot side->throttle body plumbing leaks:

    Get this intake leak tester or coupler:
    http://www.frozenboost.com/product_i...093cf36af7e73b

    This thing can go on the fmic hot side (passenger side) and you plug an air compressor to the nipple (just like on a car tire)...just get your fmic disconnected on the hot side and mount this thing on the fmic inlet and run some air through it (to say 20-25psi)...easy as pie and you'll definitely hear a leak hissing somewhere OR you can for sure say its not a leak...
    Do I need to disconnect the charge-pipe from the throttle body and plug it? Dont' want to pressurize the motor.
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    So far from this DIY 2a, 2b and maybe 2c have to retest that one seem to work. I can hear from the actuators work, and the vacuum at idle seems right around 24psi to 26psi. I'll retest tomorrow 2c to make sure the solenoids are working (or at least have an idea). Ordered the part above that @dzenno recommended and will do the pressure tests as well.

    One step at a time I guess.
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  11. #36
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    Seems like my solenoids are working as well, vacuum is holding steady at 20psi until the CEL comes on. Only thing left to do is wait for that Cap to come in and test the intake side for leaks. Wastegates move, I can see them move from under the car it's off vs on. I got a spare solenoid from a member in this forum anyways to try it out, can't really hurt at this point. If the leak test doesn't show anything, my guess only options is turbos are gone..

    but too early to say I guess.. two more steps and I'll know basically.
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  12. #37
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    I hope it works man. Good luck. Did you check the intake manifold nipple near the throttle body. That nipple is very flimsy. Did you get my email with tracking number?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    I hope it works man. Good luck. Did you check the intake manifold nipple near the throttle body. That nipple is very flimsy. Did you get my email with tracking number?
    Yea dude, I got the email and replied, thanks again. I've physically checked all those areas, but won't know for sure till I do a pressure test like @dzenno recommended. So far, vacuum seems to be holding in all the right spots, so I'll try that solenoid and hope that if it's that, it's only one.. lol
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by yandyr Click here to enlarge
    Yea dude, I got the email and replied, thanks again. I've physically checked all those areas, but won't know for sure till I do a pressure test like @dzenno recommended. So far, vacuum seems to be holding in all the right spots, so I'll try that solenoid and hope that if it's that, it's only one.. lol
    If it is the solenoid, I would only think one of them is bad..The chances of them both crapping out at once is almost impossible unless there is a short to the line.

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    FYI, the dealers do have access to a smoke machine. If they can't find anything obvious they will smoke test. That's how they found my problem.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by themyst Click here to enlarge
    FYI, the dealers do have access to a smoke machine. If they can't find anything obvious they will smoke test. That's how they found my problem.
    It's actually at the dealer now for "scheduled maintenance" Click here to enlarge . Hopefully they will at least point me in the right direction while I wait for my pressure tester and solenoid to get here.
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  17. #42
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    wastegate actuators area apparently messed up.. or the front one anyways, might as well swap both out.
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    I'd guess that the main internal wastegate shaft(s) is binding at certain times or places of their rotation. After messing with a lot of these things, there are a lot of them that do just that. I have never seen one completely "stuck", but rather ones that are not consistent and smooth in their back and forth operation... and thus can hang up from time to time.

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    Lol. So I was right all along with wastegates being stuck! Dealer fixing for you hopefully!

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    Lol. So I was right all along with wastegates being stuck! Dealer fixing for you hopefully!
    nope, have to do it at a "third party" cause my car apparently was flagged last year. but still not as bad as I was expecting; regardless this put me in the mood for upped turbos, so early next year I'll probably pull the trigger on some RBs Click here to enlarge
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Rob@RBTurbo Click here to enlarge
    I'd guess that the main internal wastegate shaft(s) is binding at certain times or places of their rotation. After messing with a lot of these things, there are a lot of them that do just that. I have never seen one completely "stuck", but rather ones that are not consistent and smooth in their back and forth operation... and thus can hang up from time to time.
    Guessing that's pretty much what its doing with the way it was behaving. They're going to check again to be 100% sure, but that's what it sounds like.
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Car's fixed! did it myself on jackstands (waste gate actuator adjustment).. if anyone's interested on a DIY for the 1series, since the turbos are different than the 3 series, I'll write it up.. hint, you need very small (short) wrenches..

    Adjusted my front wastegate actuator about 1 turn, will probably give it one more turn tomorrow (some rattle left).. all is fine again. Dealer and independent shops wanted 12hrs of labor, so you can see why my hesitation to just replace them.. when my plan is to upgrade to RBs in the near future.

    Let me know if anyone wants pictures and a DIY and I'll post it up..

    Thanks to everyone here for the advice and help. Click here to enlarge
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    Way to go man! Patience pays off sometimes Click here to enlarge I'm surprised you were able to reach the from turbos actuator adjustment nut, isn't the actuator rod on the front turbo in between the turbo and engine block like on the 335? Rear turbo actuator is fine as its exposed...
    Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    Way to go man! Patience pays off sometimes Click here to enlarge I'm surprised you were able to reach the from turbos actuator adjustment nut, isn't the actuator rod on the front turbo in between the turbo and engine block like on the 335? Rear turbo actuator is fine as its exposed...
    I think you're right, maybe it was the rear one? lol, I'm all upside down, it's definitely more exposed so it is probably the rear one.. but still a huge pain in the ass to get to on these damn 135s.
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    The front turbo is the same on all of them, and yes it is the one with the rod in between the turbo and the block. The rear one has a differently positioned actuator (which is the same Actuator as the front unit), but overall is pretty much the same thing. Hope the issue has been permanently cured, as the internal wastegates wear they definitely get the actuators way out of spec- but eventually they will start binding because of the wear pattern. Nevertheless you could be good for a while.

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