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  1. #51
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    Not trying to bring this topic back but I am just seriously wondering if there has been a thread on how to set Procede to work with NX (or any other) Nitrous system work?

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    NO. Have to set it up on your own. I have WOT switch, rpm switch, and a manual button that I press. Still waiting for my A/F switch to arrive from Dynotune.

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Thanks for the feedback cn555ic.
    I am hoping there is something that I can learn from your and anyone else that have insight in this. I really wanted to make the nx kit I purchased to work with procede rev3 & pwm meth kit. I tried to run stock map and the car actually pulls nicely you can feel the surge of power but once I run map4 then car just not running right which I foresee it will happen.

    My question is that even if I purchased all the switch like you mentioned, what map are you using to run n2o with meth? Is there any parameters that needs to be changed in user adjustable setting? Do I have to run a particular firmware?

    Thanks

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by mclyin Click here to enlarge
    Thanks for the feedback cn555ic.
    I am hoping there is something that I can learn from your and anyone else that have insight in this. I really wanted to make the nx kit I purchased to work with procede rev3 & pwm meth kit. I tried to run stock map and the car actually pulls nicely you can feel the surge of power but once I run map4 then car just not running right which I foresee it will happen.

    My question is that even if I purchased all the switch like you mentioned, what map are you using to run n2o with meth? Is there any parameters that needs to be changed in user adjustable setting? Do I have to run a particular firmware?

    Thanks
    I am still using 7-11 maps from 2011 and using Rev 2.5, as I don't like the aggressive maps and the newest stuff out today, as the boost builds way too early to my liking. I like gradual boost increase. When using nitrous you get spikes in boost, so I basically only run max boost at 15 because there is occasional spikes of 16-17psi which I don't feel comfortable with. I make sure I run as much meth as possible when spraying close to 1300+ ml/min. I have nitrous for a small bump in power and not looking for absolute power. I have no idea who you would make it work with a PWM kit as mine is the conventional Kit. I have M10 Nozzle kick in at 7 psi and when nitrous kicks in the Power nozzle M7 kicks in also. It's been a while since I installed it and it still works flawlessly. I am at a point that I am no longer chasing the dragon's tail looking for more power with newer software that Shiv is coming out with. I use to be like that but my car is perfect at this point as my logs has shown. At some point you need to make a decision of where you want your car to be.

  5. #55
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    NO. Have to set it up on your own. I have WOT switch, rpm switch, and a manual button that I press. Still waiting for my A/F switch to arrive from Dynotune.
    Not to start the old tuner war going...again...but why not just go with the JB4 if you were looking to run nitrous safely? Would have saved a bit of cash I would think given all the extra stuff you are running.
    Never thought I would see the day...
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Terry@BMS Click here to enlarge
    Life is so much more fun with a nemesis. I miss Shiv. Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge

  6. #56
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    The trade off is NO TIMING CONTROL.

  7. #57
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    Yeah I guess I'll try the Cobb+ jb4 g5 combo with nitrous for that and fueling reasons. So in the long run to do it safely one is prob not cheaper than the other
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, DCI, 7" FMIC, MT ET Streets when needed


  8. #58
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    The trade off is NO TIMING CONTROL.
    huh? jb4 offers cps offset if you want it.

  9. #59
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LostMarine Click here to enlarge
    huh? jb4 offers cps offset if you want it.
    That isn't really timing control.
    Stage 2 or 2.5 E9X M3 S65 V8 supercharger kit for sale: http://www.boostaddict.com/showthrea...r-kit-for-sale

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    Better than what JB4 offers

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    I am still using 7-11 maps from 2011 and using Rev 2.5, as I don't like the aggressive maps and the newest stuff out today, as the boost builds way too early to my liking. I like gradual boost increase. When using nitrous you get spikes in boost, so I basically only run max boost at 15 because there is occasional spikes of 16-17psi which I don't feel comfortable with. I make sure I run as much meth as possible when spraying close to 1300+ ml/min. I have nitrous for a small bump in power and not looking for absolute power. I have no idea who you would make it work with a PWM kit as mine is the conventional Kit. I have M10 Nozzle kick in at 7 psi and when nitrous kicks in the Power nozzle M7 kicks in also. It's been a while since I installed it and it still works flawlessly. I am at a point that I am no longer chasing the dragon's tail looking for more power with newer software that Shiv is coming out with. I use to be like that but my car is perfect at this point as my logs has shown. At some point you need to make a decision of where you want your car to be.
    Thanks, well my intention of using nitrous was just to bump the power a little not really after dyno queen status.

    So my goal really is just to make them work flawless, maybe I will try 7-11 map and set the max boost and see what happens. At this point I have no idea how to make the pwm mode work with nitrous.

  12. #62
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    I am still using 7-11 maps from 2011 and using Rev 2.5, as I don't like the aggressive maps and the newest stuff out today, as the boost builds way too early to my liking. I like gradual boost increase. When using nitrous you get spikes in boost, so I basically only run max boost at 15 because there is occasional spikes of 16-17psi which I don't feel comfortable with. I make sure I run as much meth as possible when spraying close to 1300+ ml/min. I have nitrous for a small bump in power and not looking for absolute power. I have no idea who you would make it work with a PWM kit as mine is the conventional Kit. I have M10 Nozzle kick in at 7 psi and when nitrous kicks in the Power nozzle M7 kicks in also. It's been a while since I installed it and it still works flawlessly. I am at a point that I am no longer chasing the dragon's tail looking for more power with newer software that Shiv is coming out with. I use to be like that but my car is perfect at this point as my logs has shown. At some point you need to make a decision of where you want your car to be.
    By the way, what are you controlling the meth kit with? By the look of it, you have your meth and nitrous linked.

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Nozzle one is hooked to progressive boost module set at 7psi and power meth nozzle is hooked in series with nitrous solenoid with ground wire being activation wire when 3 conditions are met, WOT switch, trigger button and rpm dependent set at 3000 rpms

  14. #64
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    Nozzle one is hooked to progressive boost module set at 7psi and power meth nozzle is hooked in series with nitrous solenoid with ground wire being activation wire when 3 conditions are met, WOT switch, trigger button and rpm dependent set at 3000 rpms
    So I understand this, your DD meth nozzle is a CM10? Your CM7 kicks in when the nitrous solenoid activates? So you have two meth solenoids? The second is wired to the nitrous solenoid? If I'm right about the previous, you've kind of set up your own wet nitrous shot but using meth instead of fuel, correct? Did you try it with just the CM10? I'm debating setting mine up like this, I know this is a very safe way to do it but I'm not sure it's not overkill. I guess I could add a BMW meth elbow and stick my second meth nozzle in it and just order another meth solenoid.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, DCI, 7" FMIC, MT ET Streets when needed


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    Yes I have two separate solenoids. M10 is activated via a progressive boost controller set to activate at 7 psi and full at 11psi, and other M7 the solenoid is wired in series to nitrous solenoid. Yes I am using meth to supply the fuel for the nitrous instead of the conventional way of tapping the fuel line or adding another fuel cell or tanks. I am Injecting over 1300 ml/min and IMO its added security to ensure it runs rich instead of relying solely on the fueling of the car. It's probably overkill for a 35 shot but I rather be safe then sorry when messing with nitrous.

  16. #66
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    Do you use a bottle warmer? I'm debating on wether or not it is really necessary. I know that bottle pressure is very important but how do you monitor it and ensure it stays at 1050 psi?
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, DCI, 7" FMIC, MT ET Streets when needed


  17. #67
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    You definitely want a bottle warmer, makes your shot more consistent for power delivery, and tuning. Pick one up that has a thermostat, that way you can set the temperature and it will turn on/off as needed. If you want to save some coin you can run a regular bottle heater and just monitor the pressure on your gauge, but requires manual intervention to keep it from getting too hot or turning on.

  18. #68
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    ah, thanks lulz_M3 looking into it now.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, DCI, 7" FMIC, MT ET Streets when needed


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    Yes i have all the bells and whistles with my nitrous system which includeds a bottle heater, purge and automatic bottle opener! I set all the controls in the center console under the armrest..

    Consisten bottle pressure will give you a repeatable performance gain. MY bottle is always at 1050~ when I use it..
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  20. #70
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lulz_m3 Click here to enlarge
    You definitely want a bottle warmer, makes your shot more consistent for power delivery, and tuning. Pick one up that has a thermostat, that way you can set the temperature and it will turn on/off as needed. If you want to save some coin you can run a regular bottle heater and just monitor the pressure on your gauge, but requires manual intervention to keep it from getting too hot or turning on.
    I totally agree with the bottle warmer.

    I disagree with using a thermostat to control a bottle heater. Bottle pressure is dependant on bottle volume; you will have a different pressure with a half full bottle than with a full bottle at the same temp.

    I've also seen some issues using a pressure switch that is connected to a nitrous distribution line. Here's how I initially did it on my black car which I wouldn't recommend:

    Click here to enlarge

    You can see the NX pressure switch installed just after the inline nitrous filter.

    If you don't have the bottle valve open, the switch will think the pressure is low and can "over-heat" a bottle. My preference is to put the pressure sensor/switch directly onto a gauge port on the bottle valve.

    I later used a WON nitrous controller to run the bottle heaters (Ran 2 bottles) with a pressure sensor, but I had the same situation with the possibility of overheating the bottles with the valves closed. (Or lines disconnected)

    A better way is to have inteligent switch logic for the bottle heater using a pressure sensor and a higher end ECU or Dash (Like a Motec CDL or AIM Pista) You can set a condition to having XXX psi minimum before the bottle heater will turn on.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    Yes i have all the bells and whistles with my nitrous system which includeds a bottle heater, purge and automatic bottle opener! I set all the controls in the center console under the armrest..

    Consisten bottle pressure will give you a repeatable performance gain. MY bottle is always at 1050~ when I use it..
    Very nice setup.

    I suggest to run lower bottle pressure....nitrous goes critical at 1069 PSI. It's not a "flip" either...the closer you get to that point, the less dense the media is.

    You will also get more consistent bottle pressure by starting with an 80% or less fill, and just over 900 PSI start pressure.


    With serious flow out of the bottle, I suggest to prepare the bottles by holding them at pressure/temp for 6hrs before use. I realize a 30 shot isn't much...but for anyone looking to add more....like a 100 shot...I've seen more consistent bottle pressure by preparing the bottles like this.

    At one point...I spent a bit of time testing all kinds of stuff out:

    Click here to enlarge
    Last edited by PEI330Ci; 09-02-2012 at 03:23 AM.
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    Oh...one last thing.

    Many nitrous companies have developed new alloy (Alum) bottle valves with different syphon tubes. The total bottle weight changes by nearly 1 Lb...but they don't change the labels on the outside of the bottle to reflect this.

    The result: When you fill the bottle to 24 Lbs 12 oz like the label says is "full", you've actually over-filled the bottle by nearly 1 Lb. This is a big no-no.

    Just to be certain, I measure and label the 100% empty weight of every bottle. Most people just have the bottles filled blindly....and it can result in some nasty surprises...especially if you use a temperature switch on the bottle heater.
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    Wow that's some setup! You are way more advanced then I am in terms of running nitrous! My small shot is nothing compared to yours but I am not looking for absolute power out of it. Installed it just for a small bump in power! I will lower my bottle pressure to 950-1000 psi

  23. #73
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    Wow that's some setup! You are way more advanced then I am in terms of running nitrous! My small shot is nothing compared to yours but I am not looking for absolute power out of it. Installed it just for a small bump in power! I will lower my bottle pressure to 950-1000 psi
    Are you being sarcastic?

    You're setup is pretty nice.
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  24. #74
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by PEI330Ci Click here to enlarge
    Oh...one last thing.

    Many nitrous companies have developed new alloy (Alum) bottle valves with different syphon tubes. The total bottle weight changes by nearly 1 Lb...but they don't change the labels on the outside of the bottle to reflect this.

    The result: When you fill the bottle to 24 Lbs 12 oz like the label says is "full", you've actually over-filled the bottle by nearly 1 Lb. This is a big no-no.

    Just to be certain, I measure and label the 100% empty weight of every bottle. Most people just have the bottles filled blindly....and it can result in some nasty surprises...especially if you use a temperature switch on the bottle heater.
    Thanks for your input. There are only a couple of people in our community running N2O. Alll input from eperienced users is appreciated. I'll be taking my time ensuring I have all the parts I need to get this thing set up safely and reliably. Right now I have a basic NX kit and will control it with my JB4 G5 board. I'm looking for a bottle warmer as we speak and I guess I'll get an opener while i'm at it too.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, DCI, 7" FMIC, MT ET Streets when needed


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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigdnno98 Click here to enlarge
    Do you use a bottle warmer? I'm debating on wether or not it is really necessary. I know that bottle pressure is very important but how do you monitor it and ensure it stays at 1050 psi?
    NANO Nitrous

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