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  • JerryT's Avatar
    07-27-2015, 05:16 PM
    Introducing JPworks BMW n54 top mount manifolds T4 divided flange tapped, top mount, made of schedule 10 304l stainless, 1/2" flanges and twin 38mm V-band wastegate provision. Fits 135 335 I, IS and XI. Price is $1200.00 Also offering: Down pipe $250 Open dump tubes $150 Thread will updated with pictures daily.
    59 replies | 1666 view(s)
  • Tony@VargasTurboTech's Avatar
    07-27-2015, 02:08 PM
    AD intercooler showed up this morning. Thing is seriously bad ass. Looking forward to getting it on the car. Hopefully have it up and running this week. While everyone else continues to discuss magic numbers, and HPFP's. We continue pushing things forward in the background as we always do. Enjoy the pictures.
    56 replies | 1393 view(s)
  • quattr0's Avatar
    07-31-2015, 03:17 PM
    Must be the lucky guy as I'm sure I'm not the few who bought VTT products. Warranty, 1 year, happened to be expired 2 months ago. Now smoke is coming out like steam engine. @ABR advises "we found bank two turbo is leaking oil internally". Ouch! My stock turbo lasted me more than 5 years. This unlucky one not even more than 3,000+ miles. :angry-banghead: I don't daily drive the e90, just bought f82 last October, and never driven it hard. Maybe I should have driven harder ;-)
    51 replies | 1121 view(s)
  • jyamona's Avatar
    07-30-2015, 12:56 PM
    jyamona started a thread Load by Gear - Teaser in N54
    So, the time has come to fill you guys in on something I have been hard at work on, along w/ martial@mhd ;) Aside from defining new tables and building out the XDF's, some of you know I decompiled the BIN into assembly some time ago in IDA Pro and have been studying it, vs. the logic in "IS" car bins. Well, based closely on the "overboost" feature of the IS cars, I bring to you: Load by Gear, tested and working on my regular old IJEOS 135i! It entails custom logic implemented into my IJEOS bin. I8AOS support will come, but is much harder as it's structure is much different. The premise is simple, you set your Load Target to the lowest load you would like to run (1st gear), and then use the new "Load Target Adder by Gear" table to increase this load for subsequent gears. And unlike the "overboost" feature on 1M and IS cars, load does not decay after 1s / timer. This will allow you to put down exactly as much power per gear that your tires can handle. Here is a screenshot of how I had these two tables set up for testing purposes (intentionally slow / pointless stepped load just for demonstration): Worthless without logs, you say? http://datazap.me/u/jyamona/load-gear-testing?log=0&data=4-15-18-22 http://datazap.me/u/jyamona/load-gear-testing?log=1&data=4-15-18-22 Ignore the sloppy PID, boost, throttle closures in the tune, it is just a base map thrown together for testing purposes :) There is still more testing to take place, and getting it added to I8AOS will take some time, but I imagine porting to the 1M / IS roms should be much more trivial.
    38 replies | 906 view(s)
  • blaster3500's Avatar
    07-31-2015, 06:33 PM
    Looks like a new company based on their Facebook. Hopefully not a repost but here are some pics from their page. A nice cast manifold would be great.
    48 replies | 807 view(s)
  • pobudz's Avatar
    07-30-2015, 12:20 AM
    Finally got around to going back to the dyno today. Arizona :( 109F inside the dyno room. New mods since last making 698/660 (~80*F): ADE 800whp FMIC CSF Racing radiator Back to the 3.08, quaife lsd New center support bearing MHD Tune w/ converted Cobb E50 map to get to the gas station, and baseline E85 (some back story on this one) YAY no more mixing! So... I spent the morning prepping the car. I was going to switch to heat range 8 plugs, ngk 6706's, so I put those in. Gapped them at .017. Had some issues with misfiring... car just didn't feel right on the way to the dyno. Hardly got into boost on the drive to the dyno. I get there and decide to swap back to my 5992s (brought them just in case... and I wasn't even a boyscout). I find... this: With the help of a friend, we got the porcelain cleared out with a shop vac by breaking it down using a socket. The little pieces were stuck in the gap between the spark plug base and the nut. Eventually got onto the dyno... ... which was partially broken (no torque read out). So... we focused on just getting the tune done and not on numbers. We got as high as 32psi tapering to 28psi. WGDC ended up maxed out on the 15lb wastegate spring. We ended up sticking with 25psi. I can move to a 20lb spring or get a 4 port mac solenoid according to Jake@MOTIV. I will be trying out the 4 port first. We are also toying with the possibility of a bigger exhaust housing (currently .82, moving to ~1.02) for more air. This is e85 (no mixing), at 110* ambient air: Comparison of the previous runs prior to NoFlyZone (3.46 final drive vs 3.08 final drive): Ended up making the same power, with less boost, on e85. MHD and AEM are working very well together :) The tablet I have works out nicely too... I'll update this thread with GoPro footage later on (Jake dumped some extra fuel in up top :awesome:). Martial discovered a way to convert a Cobb flash. Jake was working with him directly, I guess he ended up flashing my Cobb tune to his car and then pulled it out as a .bin using something else.. MHD maybe. I didn't get details... Talk to Jake @ MOTIV or Martial of MHD if you are curious. The car feels F'n AMAZING. Once I got on to the freeway and started having fun, I realized that EVERYTHING was just so much smoother. I don't know if it was MHD, no more 91, or finally getting retuned in general. HUGE thanks to Jake for once again mastering the art of remote tuning. Teamviewer ftw. Datazap: http://www.datazap.me/u/pobudz/mhd-1 http://www.datazap.me/u/pobudz/mhd-2 http://www.datazap.me/u/pobudz/mhd-3 Sorry... no AEM logs :)
    28 replies | 617 view(s)
  • subaru335i's Avatar
    07-29-2015, 10:41 AM
    With all of the awesome progress lately on the N54 tuning/flashing side of things I have gotten extremely jealous :). As most of us know the cobb flashing capabilities are in the stone age in comparison to even the cobb support for N54 (no vanos tables defined even, etc etc). Not to mention how handicapped we are compared to the new stuff that is being added to the N54 xdf's. Cobb has pretty clearly abandoned the BMW flashing game and are just riding on their good reputation now. jyamona suggested putting a list together of people interested in furthering the N55 tuning so someone like @martial@mhd might be interested in adding N55 support to the MHD app (or anyone else with the necessary know how and skills). I would certainly ditch my Cobb and pay for an app or whatever if I could edit and define my own tables and flash the DME over OBD and not be stuck with what cobb decided was "good enough". Chime in here if you are in the same boat and are interested in seeing this progress. Obviously the E9x N55's will be easiest (as cobb already proved they are flashable) but there are certainly a lot more F3x N55 cars out there so the ability to flash those cars at all would increase demand significantly. Thanks guys!
    23 replies | 297 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    07-28-2015, 07:18 PM
    An interesting photo was posted from a BMW technical document on the BimmerBoost forums that gives a quick and easy overlay of the BMW N54 and N55 valvetrains including their VANOS camshaft adjustment ranges. The N54 and N55 of course are similar turbocharged and direct injected inline-6 motors sharing the same bore and stroke. They clearly are tuned a bit differently (due to the N55 being single turbo for one) and the N55's addition of Valvetronic plays a role. The N55 has a wider range of intake and exhaust VANOS adjustment as well as larger intake valve lift and cam duration compared to the N54 as the tech document highlights. Potentially the N55 can breathe better up top namely with a large turbo upgrade although tuning VANOS as well as Valvetronic is complicated. VANOS alone is a difficult system to tune and we have yet to see aftermarket VANOS cams working for the N54 or N55 motors. An interesting comparison nonetheless.
    27 replies | 149 view(s)
  • Jeffman's Avatar
    07-28-2015, 11:54 AM
    I've got a kid in college now so my mod budget is limited... I'm wondering what's the best bang for the buck mod upgrade for an FBO N54 to get to 500 whp/500wtq? From what I've been reading on the forums, the latest developments in inlets and Fuel-It's throttle body injectors (TBI) look to be very cost effective for substantially bumping up power for an "almost FBO" car like mine. I am currently running an E40-E50 flash only Cobb ATR tune on my "almost FBO" (sans kitty less dp) 335xi AT which Virtual Dyno says I'm achieving 400 whp/460wtq at 18 psi max boost. Do you think I can reach 500/500 with just inlets and/or TBI on E85? If so, would I need to increase my boost to over 18 psi, and could I do that flash-only, i.e., which tables in ATR should I adjust? Would I also need an N20 TMAP sensor to do this correctly? Thanks for your input.
    19 replies | 402 view(s)
  • Mrpikolo's Avatar
    07-29-2015, 08:53 PM
    This should go without saying: Choose your oil filter wisely. This even includes reputation name brands, such as Bosch. Today, I am going to show you why some things are not always as they appear to be. About 5 or so years ago, Bosch came into the North American market with a new line of filters. These filters quickly went into all the big box auto parts stores. Advertising as high quality aftermarket replacements. What many people may not know, is they are not manufactured by Bosch at all. Bosch filters, at least largely in the North American market, are manufactured by Purolator. I have known this since they first came out. A couple months ago, I decided to go with one. I usually use a Wix filter, but I was feeling a little adventurous. Plus, the Bosch was advertised with a synthetic media, while pretty much all Wix filters use a high quality paper media. A couple weeks later, I noticed I was leaking oil out of my filter cap. No big deal, I assumed I failed at tightening it up correctly. First I took the filter cap off to make sure I had an o-ring on it, and noticed something strange.... Wait... that top piece isn't suppose to be there.... Interesting...Looks to be like my filter likes my cage, and it's slightly distorted After a few minutes with a screw driver, and quite a bit of force I was able to separate the two pieces again. Yup, not only did my filter collapse in on itself, it also decided to get a divorce from it's base. There you have it. After about 2000 miles of driving, this BOSCH filter, which is suppose to last 15k(OE change interval), failed. Thankfully, I had no other issues result cause of this. I replaced it with a Wix filter and am having no issues. My professional opinion: Do not use ANY filter aside from an O.E. manufacture. Mahl, MANN, Wix, Fleetgaurd, ect are all O.E. manufacture lines. Stay away from Purolator, Champ(champ makes a lot of filters. K&N, Mobile, Pennzoil, most house branded, Royal Purple), and Fram.
    13 replies | 289 view(s)
  • Odan.be's Avatar
    07-26-2015, 06:48 PM
    I noticed after logging that i am pulling negative timing on all cylinders. Is this tune to agressive ? Or are my sparkplugs to old ( 31K miles) http://datazap.me/u/odanbe/mhd-stage-2-v5-test-gear-3-4-5-6?log=0&data=4-8-22 Mods : Er charge pipe w tial bov , BMS DCI , downpipes
    14 replies | 297 view(s)
  • prelude2perfect's Avatar
    07-30-2015, 03:30 PM
    I normally stick to N54tech for support with issues like these but I can't find a solution and need more experts to take a look. Here's the original thread: http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32050 Codes that are giving me trouble: 2A19 Tank ventilation valvel, input signal 2FBC Fuel pressure control valve, signal Car gets a very long crank and runs like crap, idle all over the place, HP F at 2, and now these codes won't clear. Things I've tried: Swapped with known working HPFP Swapped with known working HPF Sensor Checked JB4 connections a million times and took out completely Things I haven't tried: Flashing back to stock Car will work and then these codes come back sporadically (sp?). When I leave the car sitting for long periods of time, I come back and this happens. I keep thinking I fix it and then it comes back later. When the codes aren't present, logs look perfectly normal. What the hell could it be?
    11 replies | 220 view(s)
  • Mrpikolo's Avatar
    07-26-2015, 07:30 PM
    I've been playing with a few things all day, trying to get my boost to not spike and cause unneeded throttle closures. Data log is here : http://www.datazap.me/u/jboyorak/log-1437952798?log=0&data=3-22 Below is a screen shot of my boost control tables. I have lowered my WGDC Base, played around with the P and D tables, with no luck on calming it down. What am I missing? Thank you in advance!
    14 replies | 172 view(s)
  • musc's Avatar
    07-30-2015, 03:27 AM
    Hey guys. I've been running an ETS 5" FMIC for awhile and have always been impressed with its performance. I have seen it on par with and even out perform friends cars with competitor 6" and 7" units running less aggressive tunes than I. I have always been a big fan of the Helix FMIC and when I went to purchase my first FMIC I was disappointed because at that time they had stopped making them. I even hunted for a few months for a used one with no luck. Helix was considered the best for IAT suppression and was the first with the stepped design for our cars. The ETS has done well even in these 100+F Carolina summer days with no meth but I couldn't pass up the chance to get the FMIC I really wanted. We see a lot of comparisons with aftermarket FMICs to stock. The results of those are going to be obvious. But how about a test vs two quality FMICs? ATM has continued to improve on the initial Helix design. Fit and finish was definitely impressive with excellent welds and a high quality core. Fit was excellent with no cutting required. The J pipe design did place the silicone elbow going to the FMIC closer to the oil heat exchanger than I'd like. I used an extra piece of silicone and wedged it in between the heat exchanger and the elbow. Not sure if any other others have experienced that. The biggest proof is in the logs. I did a 3rd-5th log on back to back nights. Weather was very similar. For the ETS pull it was 78 degrees with about 80% humidity. For the ATM pull it was 80F with about 80% humidity. Same road, same tune, fuel, etc. The ETS pull was 1st of the night. ATM pull was 3rd of the night with with no cool down other than turning around at the end of the road and driving about 1/2 mile. I did this to see how quickly temps would recover. They did nicely. ETS started about 93F or 15F over ambient. In day to day driving I saw (8-15F over ambient when cruising). The end of the pull was 124F for a 31F increase. Respectable IAT suppression. As the logs go on the temps do climb and don't recover as fast. ATM started at 87F or 7 degrees over ambient. The pulls both started within 50 RPM over each other as noted by throttle position/RPM. The end of the pull was 113F for 26F increase. The pull was about 200rpm longer. Checking the IAT at the same ending RPM as the ETS and it was 110F at the same point for a 23F increase. So overall the results were pretty close. The ATM/Helix still has the edge though the ETS 5" is a solid performer. I have noticed that the ATM seems to recover quicker and seems to hold closer to ambient for longer. I didn't log my first two pulls with the ATM/Helix so this was a third pull with little cool down. Lots of back to back roll races in Mexico and the ETS can show some heat retention quicker than I'd like. I have yet to test the ATM/Helix in this situation.
    10 replies | 239 view(s)
  • rac's Avatar
    07-30-2015, 08:23 PM
    rac started a thread TTE 550 hybrid twins N54 in N54
    Anyone know what kind of reputation the turbo engineers have in the Audi scene, or any scene? Someone mentioned them in a thread a few days back. Some of us outside the US might need to start taking more interest in European products now due to the aussie dollar going into freefall against the US... RB & VTT have become 25-30% more expensive for us over the last year or so from exchange rate. Some info i have; · Genuine IHI Housings & Components · Latest TTE Billet Compressor Geometry · Optimized Compressor Cover Machining Clearances · TTE uprated waste gate flapper and arm with improved bushing · Oversize Special Curved Clipped Turbine · Reinforced Bearings · Dynamically Balanced, supplied with VSR test report · Plug & Play Fitment · 550 PS Capable · Designed, Machined & Built by TTE in Germany Recon/Upgrade from used turbochargers RRP €1847.90 NET Apparently in early testing phase, something to watch. Pics, latter two next to stock comparison.
    10 replies | 194 view(s)
  • Tony@VargasTurboTech's Avatar
    07-29-2015, 06:40 PM
    We get feedback like this almost daily, but people rarely post it on the forums, figured I would share a little of it. All work was done by a very high end German shop called EuroWise http://eurowise.com/ they could not have been happier with the way everything fit, and performed once installed. If you are considering going with VTT, you can do do confidently! As always thanks for the support! "Hi Tony, Just got back the car recently and took it easy for the first couple of hundred miles. I was able to log some pulls for Dzenno today and I am very happy with how the car keeps pulling up top now. I'll definitely get on a dyno for some 93oct and e50 pulls once Dzenno and I are satisfied with the tunes. I chatted with the folks over at Eurowise for a bit and they said that the inlets fit very, very well. It was a pain, but everything was just right haha. They're also shipping the cores back for me so just let me know if the box is missing any info. Thanks! Bryan"
    8 replies | 291 view(s)
  • dbarcliff's Avatar
    07-27-2015, 03:17 PM
    Curious if it possible to buy new gears for a Quaife LSD i already have? I purchased the 3.46 gears and they are great but a little more than what i am wanting at this point. I am wanting to switch to 3.15 or back to 3.08. I am having trouble finding any solutions without starting over. Any advise or ideas would be great This is for a large pumpkin 6MT135i. Thanks
    9 replies | 161 view(s)
  • Legionofboom's Avatar
    07-31-2015, 06:23 PM
    Looking for a secret awesome HQ (or best quality possible) stream.
    9 replies | 142 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    07-31-2015, 05:38 PM
    It has been a while since BMW introduced the M6 GT3 set to replace the Z4 GT3. BMW Motorsport director stated the 24 Hour Dubai and Daytona races in 2016 are what they are targeting, "That’s obviously what I think customers would like to run and that’s what we’re clearly aiming at." Those are big endurance races and certainly a good time to make a debut. They are also still a ways off which means testing can continue and the car should be ready to go next year. What BMW is doing is tweaking and testing the car for privateer teams, "That’s the focus of our development program is that we hand over a car to the customers that’s already developed, that not necessarily has raced in the hands of a works effort from our side. It’s competition. But as we’ve said before and I would like to stress again, this is really customer racing. Therefore, for us, it’s not an option to enter a prototype on a works level and compete against our customers or potential customers. This is customer racing and nothing but." Do not expect a factory backed effort with the M6 as you saw with the Z4 and M3 previously. As a reminder the M6 GT3 features a 500 horsepower 4.4 liter twin turbo V8 based on the S63TU engine design with a dry sump oiling system. The power is routed through a six speed sequential manual gearbox. With a dry weight of 2866 pounds it should move quite quickly.
    10 replies | 31 view(s)
  • jyamona's Avatar
    07-31-2015, 01:45 PM
    So this is interesting... in the DAMOS, the table "Requested Torque (Driver)" (many of us are unsure of it's exact purpose), it's table data is defined as a % (of torque), not an actual torque value, as it was defined in Cobb and in our XDFs. Also of note, in the DAMOS it is called "relative desired moment at rear wheel", aka. requested torque % to the wheels. This would mean, with our current values, at 100% pedal, we are only requesting 73.8% of torque. The DAMOS calibration for this table is also different, in that it requests a full 100% at 100% pedal, along w/ a different gradient at the various speeds. I would like for you all to test these values and report back on anything you notice. Before / after logs showing requested torque, actual torque, requested load, actual load, boost set point / target, and boost will be very helpful. I think this table may help out low end driveability, as well as maybe even increase top end power :) I am testing as well, interested to hear what you all think. Here are the values to try:
    8 replies | 201 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    07-31-2015, 01:05 AM
    If this picture offends you then you somehow wandered onto the wrong website. Our regular readers will understand and even identify with this. Go ahead and laugh.
    7 replies | 59 view(s)
  • alex@ABRhouston's Avatar
    07-29-2015, 03:30 PM
    Budget: 3,000 bucks. Desire: run 3 monitors for racing simulator. Case only. This doesn't include /steering wheel/ monitors/keyboard/mouse/speakers/etc.etc. Sound will be pushed into surround sound via HDMI off of onboard sound card. Thinking 32g ram, I7 4gig, liquid cooler, and GeForce GTX 980 Ti nice case with cooling, 250G SSD for OS and 2TB for storage. go :music-rockout:
    7 replies | 107 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    07-30-2015, 05:17 PM
    Improving on the factory BMW airbox design for the F80 M3 and F82 M4 is not easy. It is not like the BMW engineers do not design efficient parts themselves but they do have to work within a certain budget and with BMW suppliers as well as deal with strict regulations. As we all know there is room to improve on many BMW factory parts including something like the intake system on the S55 motor in the F80 M3 and F82 M4. Gains really show when someone is running a tune or higher boost as the factory system becomes more of a restriction at that point. Look at the dyno results on a Mustang dynamometer here from AWE-Tuning. The aftermarket part and the factory part perform about the same until the motor is past 3k rpm. At that point the S-Flo system provides greater flow on the test car which is running their piggyback tune and exhaust system. At the factory power levels gains will be minimal but this is a mod for that person trying to extract every last horse and remove restrictions. What the dyno results prove is that the factory intake can be made more efficient and this pays dividends as the motor is pushed harder. Is this system worth the $1595 they are asking for it? Well, that is up to you. For the cost conscious the recently released BMS system is quite the value alternative. The AWE piece sure is pretty though and offers OEM fit and finish.
    6 replies | 39 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    07-28-2015, 10:09 PM
    Some very fast cars in this video. It is shot from the perspective of the bolt on Gen IV Viper so unfortunately we do not get an in car view for each race but that is ok. There are several good runs here we do get to see in their full glory. The first race is a chase view between the C6 ZR1 and the procharged C7 said to be making 820 wheel horsepower with meth injection. The C6 takes the race and it is said to make 900 whp. The bolt on Gen IV Viper camera car runs the C7 next. Considering the Viper is down 200 wheel horsepower it does fairly well until the power disparity shows. The C7 is very, very quick. The bolt on Viper next takes on a UGR (Underground Racing) twin turbo Viper. As you can imagine this is a beatdown. Once the turbo Viper spools and shifts it is gone. It just takes off. The bolt on Viper camera car takes on another twin turbo Viper after this and the result is much of the same. The yellow UGR Viper runs the ZR1 next but this is a chase view unfortunately. The Viper does take the win though. The final race features a T67 Supra against the bolt on gen IV Viper camera car. This is an ugly beatdown. Frankly, the Supra is probably still spooling as this is written. Nice to see cars at various power levels like this go at it to put high horsepower in context.
    7 replies | 74 view(s)
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