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  • The Ghost's Avatar
    07-02-2016, 08:49 PM
    I've building building my N54 over the last few months and wanted to share my progress. Setup: N54, FBO, 6MT (Spec 3+) VM single turbo kit, PTE 6466 G2 JB4 G5, back-end flash (MHD) BMS/CPE Port Injection kit JB4 controlled Split Second injector controller Fuel-it Stage 3 dual LPFPs Fuel-it FPR, -6AN feed/return lines e85 Engine: JE pistons (1 overbore, standard compression) CP/Carillo rods All else stock Build and dyno can be see here: http://tinyurl.com/gs6anp7 https://www.instagram.com/the_ghost_bmw/ Special thanks to Livnpaintball2 who pioneered the DIY N54 build and shared his build secrets to help make this happen. I have a ton of data on both the build (parts weight, methodology, issues) as well as logs that I'll post when I have time. I was pleased with the results, especially considering it was 100 F in the dyno bay. Log of highest pull: http://datazap.me/u/ghost/dyno-33psi?log=0&data=1-4-11-18-24-25-26-27-28-29&trim=5&tmin=61.24&tmax=100.00 Happy 4th!
    103 replies | 6648 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    07-09-2016, 01:14 AM
    I'll explain later but I could use some broken or old Vishnu stuff. An old Procede would be great.
    80 replies | 7006 view(s)
  • Chris@VargasTurboTech's Avatar
    07-14-2016, 09:45 AM
    We finally got around to doing what we promised we would do -test the GC's on good old pump gas. We tested on 93; if you have 91 expect numbers a little lower, if you have ACN91, weep and gnash your teeth and expect significantly less to be safe (we aren't doing max effort ACN91 testing anymore). If you are missing one spark plug, run 86 octane and have a turbonator installed, please stop emailing me questions. This is good 'ole 93 octane pump fuel. Temperature was 95*, timing target was 4.5 degrees up top, AFR was 11.5 or so up top. Our first run was 16 psi. Our final run targeted 30 psi, but made 32 psi and tapered down to 28 psi. Note; this is admittedly a lot of boost, however, we did the testing to show what was possible at/near the limit. I have a few pics for you all to check out; First, all of the runs. Everything from 16 psi through our 30 target. You can easily see the upward progression. A few points of interest; 16 psi: 449 whp 427 wtq 20 psi: 482 whp 460 wtq 22 psi: 509 whp 478 wtq 25 psi: 543 whp 519 wtq Keep in mind these runs are all the same a/f target, same timing target, same vanos, just increasing boost. There is room to adjust the tune to make more power at most of these boost levels, especially the lower ones. While the top runs were aggressive on the boost profile, this wasn't a glory pull; Tony did 5 back to back runs, all over 550 whp. Finally, this is a comparison of the first and last runs. Again, boost is the only change here.
    52 replies | 3146 view(s)
  • DOCRace's Avatar
    07-11-2016, 03:43 PM
    If you have a 6spd you might understand my pain. Sloppy oem shifter assembly was just killing me. Sometimes going from 1st to 2nd I would mis shift going into the reverse slot. Going from 2nd to 3rd was never really bad but there was still some thinking to do if you wanted to flat foot shift. Well I contacted RTD who already made a very nice setup for the E90. The only problem from me was that I wanted it to look more street able. Their current version was for racing which put the shifter closer to the steering wheel where it should be. I was looking for a shorter style. So I was able to convince them to make me a short version to try out. All I can say is this shifter is night and day to the oem one. Shift is so solid and gear selection is damn near as perfect as can be. It has reverse lockout so no more mis shifts. Another thing about it that I didn't know is that it has an extra spring that is adjustable to keep the shifter in neutral position on top of the factory mechanism. What that means for me anyways is going from 2nd to 3rd is literally just a push up. The spring is stiff enough you don't have to think about pushing up and to the right barely to get to 3rd. Flat foot shifting all day with this assembly (as long as your axles will hold up) Anyways, after getting the product and falling in love with everything about it, I talked to the owner who is an engineer and just making these on the side. I decided to become a dealer for them as I know there are others out there looking to have a better shifter feel. I have a shipment of these coming end of the month that are all going to be the short style like the one I have. I can also get them in the original race style. There are also options for different colors as well. The one thing I will say is that you will have to lose your ashtray and cut a small part of your center console trim to make this fit. Not a big deal for me but may be for you.
    46 replies | 3821 view(s)
  • Termn8u's Avatar
    07-03-2016, 01:23 AM
    Hey everyone. A guy I know has a 2008 SL65 with speed driven intercoolers and a tune on it. I own a 2016 E63 S with awd and eurocharged's latest stage 3 tune. They tell me it makes 645 at the tire...... Idk if that's true or not but it has kicked the shit out of a lot of fast cars already. Last week I ran a 2010 C6 corvette with Cam, I take, exhaust, auto,3.45 gears Mickey Thompson ET streets that were aired down and a 100-150 shot of nitrous. From a dig, using race start I got him by 3-4 cars and then from a 30 mph roll I pulled him even more. How should I fare against this guys SL65?His car suffers really badly from heat soak.........
    21 replies | 7025 view(s)
  • Chris@CKI's Avatar
    07-21-2016, 11:15 AM
    Ive been meaning to write this for a while but i've just been super busy. A lot of people dont understand our CAM timing or how to actually adjust the VANOS systems. To me its one of the most powerful tuning parameters we have and its very underrated and overlooked. I am not going to lie I didnt know much about it until I started researching and playing around with different combos. Truth be told that once I had a better understanding I quickly realized that all the VANOS maps Ive seen are not optimized for most big power set ups. We have been relying on COBBs work way back when before turbo options were really available. When you research cam timing for FI engines you will read No overlap, No overlap! Which is not a valid statement for a few reasons. A cam has a gradual incline/decline as part of the cam profile. So by removing overlap completely you have just moved maxed lift way past the 90* mark on the down stroke which also means you are leaving it open even longer on the up stoke. Why is this bad? Because you are now wasting approximately 30* of useful stroke. The first 30* of crank travel is less than 1mm of cam lift. This puts max lift (9.7mm) at 120* of the 180* stroke. So if you discard the first 15-30* of cam lift by moving it into the exhaust stroke that moves max lift closer to 105-110. This also closes the valve 10-15* sooner on the upstroke creating a more efficient cylinder fill. For the exhaust if you ever look at measured cylinder pressure about 80% of cylinder pressure is dissipated in the first 100* of travel. So opening the exhaust sooner can be more beneficial since the cylinder is no longer producing power. This will reduce overlap and close the valve sooner on the intake stroke which will also lessen EGR and reversion. Back on topic, Who wants a free way to keep valves cleaner longer? Knowing what we know now we can use this to our advantage like most OEMs are now doing. Doing so we just have to remove all reversion into the intake. Reversion is the backwash of exhaust into the intake port of the head. This is used as part of EGR and emissions. By partially filling the cylinder with burnt gases the amount of fresh air you can actually ingest decreases. This makes it act like a smaller displacement engine which increases fuel economy. Less fresh air=less fuel to hit a given target. So it is important we try to keep overlap to maintain some fuel economy. The gunk we see in the intake ports is a mixture of oil and carbon, hence the term carbon build up. If we eliminate one of those ingredients we can decrease this gunk by a large margin. Some of us have blocked the ports in the head so that only the carbon is getting in the intake but it doesnt accumulate because there is no oil for it to snowball with. Same thing if we go the other way. If we allow only oil and no carbon then then the oil will continue to flow into the cylinder and not increase in viscosity by adding a solid into it. By going full retard on the exhaust cam and opening the intake only when the intake event starts to happen we eliminate any reversion into the intake. However we still have it through the exhaust. This serves as many benefits. One being that reversion through the exhaust only you increase combustion temps which help clean and burn off carbon and creates a better more complete combustion. This is how all OEMs are doing it now for DI engine. Ive been running it this way for months although my ports are blocked and I run PI. I was more or less doing it for drivability and function. There are several other cars that are now running it with stock PCV system and no PI. Im not waiting 40-50K miles to see how it turns out, In theory it works and in practice it works for other engines. There is nothing to lose by running it, it will just build a bigger data base to go off of in the future. So whats the magic numbers? Stock values Modified values
    31 replies | 3165 view(s)
  • Tech's Avatar
    07-07-2016, 10:25 PM
    Tech started a thread MHD or Jb4? in N54
    I'm getting close to putting my freshly rebuild n54 back in and not sure if mhd has a tune for stage 1 turbos and inlets, or if I should go back with Jb4. or any tuners that have tuNed for this kind of set up, I have contacted a few and they are only doing back end flashes. any feed back would be appreciated.
    28 replies | 3330 view(s)
  • newb335guy's Avatar
    07-11-2016, 11:33 PM
    In my quest for more power and the possibility of setting some new records, I have teamed up with Doc Racing. I worked with John on putting all this together and I am very happy with my decision to go with Doc Racing and their extremely well put together kit. I had been talking with John on making the jump to a single turbo setup for a few months. I was on the fence for quite awhile. The urge for more power finally took over and I called John back and said I was finally ready. John and I spoke about my goals and I decided on a 6266 Gen 2 turbo. The process was exactly as John said, 3 weeks tops for them to build the kit ceramic coated out the door to my house, it actually was at my home in 18 days. The kit came with everything needed. My good friend and outstanding mechanic Britton did my install it took him about 6 hours total to put the turbo in, I was there the whole time for moral support. Britton also drilled and tapped ports and then blocked them off we used the RB External PCV/Dual Catch Can support kit for this. Total time to do all the above to include putting all fluids back in car, circulating coolant, buttoning up everything so it looks pretty much OEM (except for the big ass turbo) flashing the BMS ST TS PI flash to the first crank about 11 hours. I will have more photos of the buttoned up finished engine bay photos. I will update in a few days I am waiting on NKT O2 sensors after I get them installed Ican start dialing things in. Here is the very first start of car after install.
    28 replies | 2815 view(s)
  • DOCRace's Avatar
    07-04-2016, 03:10 PM
    Happy Independence Day fellas!! Well here's how it starts out. A group of us were down an abandoned road (in Mexico of course) and I let a buddy of mine take a rip in my car. He takes off through the top of forth and it just sounded bananas. Never heard my car from the outside, from the driver's seat it always sounded very mild. Anyways this guy comes up with an R6 and ask who owns that car, he wants to race it. So it took us a minute to set it up because he wanted to start from a dig. I didn't want to break axles so I say we go from a roll starting at 30. Well here was the first race. The shift bog just kills me and I end up chasing him the rest if the way. Guy pulls up to me after and say he let off at the end lol. Maybe he did but I was going to pass him either way. He wanted to go again so we go again. This time I was a bit faster on my shifting. No chance on this one. BTW guys I was on 20psi.
    30 replies | 2611 view(s)
  • pits200's Avatar
    07-13-2016, 01:59 PM
    pits200 started a thread Port Injection Reviews in N54
    After the VTT thread regarding DI got cluttered, wanted to open this thread regarding PI. Can we get a rundown of users, their kit, and what controller they are using. Is the backfire issue that prevalent on cars with the PI kits? Is there any safety issue(Fire, etc.) it seems there isn't as it's located in a decent spot but just wanted to ask? Anything else of a concern since I've seen a few PI kits available for sale after only a few months of use and that makes me a little cautious.
    28 replies | 2799 view(s)
  • DOCRace's Avatar
    06-30-2016, 01:52 PM
    I am pretty excited about this. Newb335guy contacted me when we released the kit and there was a little bit of back and forth but we finally decided on the kit with a 6266. Got the kit all coated satin titanium with a cool DEI titanium heat shield. Just had to lay all the main parts out and show everyone. This setup is just going to rock, no doubt about that.
    21 replies | 3413 view(s)
  • Kommodore's Avatar
    07-21-2016, 05:24 PM
    I've been messing with my car, doing what I can, trying different tuning solutions for a long time now. There is constant tweaking. At first, it was fun. Going through the process, learning a lot of things along the way, helping others do things with their cars, etc. Eventually however, after all of the bolt ons & upgrades are done, you kind of want something that just works. For my particular situation, the ST is not yet an option, but it will be next year. Until then I wanted something that I didn't have to mess with in the interim. After not really getting what I wanted with other tuners, I decided to bite the bullet one last time and go with Twisted Tuning. If this didn't pan out, I was just going back to my PPK and wait for my ST opportunity. Not interested in going for a canned flash with messed up knock tables or a JB4 that would take a lot of tweaking to get right. Weirdly, there are few people on this platform I have dealt with who don't seem to be inconvenienced by you breathing in their general direction. Maybe they are jaded. Perhaps, they've dealt with a great many typical BMW owner. Justin's customer service on the other hand is exceptional. In fact considering what the e-tuning service cost I didn't have super high expectations in that regard going in. He was very excellent, and patient. What I got was what I felt I would get if I had paid a tuner $1000+. I think the most impressive thing was his ability to do exactly what I had asked without any follow-up questions or constant revisions. You can tell when you look at your logs after doing pulls how they've changed things. If your results are flip flopping all over the place, and the car feels different each time (but not better overall per-se) you get a bad gut feeling that they either don't know what they are doing or are not paying attention to your car. The thing you spend a lot of money, energy, bodily fluids on, and cast virgins into volcanoes for. I did explain exactly what I wanted up front. And, each revision that I did get was a marked improvement. There was no back-and-forth-ness about the process, just consistent progress. Each revision came not long after I sent a log, which was hugely impressive. The only delays really were on my part. Of course, the best part of all of this, is that my car finally feels amazing. How it was meant to be. Spritely, motivated, and smooth. No tweaking or fiddly shit. The mesa of torque you can sit on while banging through the gears with no hiccups, and no hesitation. It's as exciting as it is satisfying. It's not just the straightline performance I was after though, as I like to hang the tail out whenever nobody is around, so I asked for a particular kind of throttle setup that would work for the kind of power I wanted, and Justin delivered something that was easy to deal with, yet still as enjoyable as before. All in all, when the next big upgrade comes around, I am glad I found someone I can go to for tuning services that I trust as a result of this experience. If you're not sure who to go to, I would highly recommend Justin at Twisted Tuning
    36 replies | 2177 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    07-02-2016, 01:51 AM
    Many readers are familiar with twin scroll turbocharger systems but it never hurts to in basic terms explain turbocharger technology which can seem like witchcraft to the casual car fans. In the most basic of terms, a twin scroll turbocharger is like having two turbos in one. How is that possible you say? Well, just think of your classic V6 or V8. There are two exhaust banks. Traditionally, an efficient turbocharger setup would mean two turbos hanging off the manifolds at the bottom of the car. Each is fed by that set of cylinder banks which it is connected to. It looks like this: Such a setup can make a ton of power, no doubt about it. A good twin set of modern single scroll turbochargers on a V8 or V6 can produce quadruple digit horsepower. However, look at all that piping. Look at the distance the exhaust gases have to travel. Can a single twin scroll turbo do the job of these twins more efficiently? Absolutely. Imagine if the exhaust gases traveled to the turbocharger right from the cylinder head. That poses a packaging problem but one that a twin scroll turbo helps alleviate. The new B9 Audi S4/S5 3.0 TFSI turbo motor is a great example of this: Audi placed a twin scroll turbo in the V at the top of the motor and with a very trick manifold feeds a single turbo with both banks of exhaust pulses. It is like having two in one yet also with the benefit of less piping, less travel distance, and quite simply greater efficiency. BMW started the trend with a pair of twin scroll turbochargers mounted in the valley of their S63 V8. It is the same principle except they are feeding two turbochargers with a cross engine manifold: BMW has two V8 twin turbo motors, the N63 and the S63, but the S63 outpaces the N63 considerably. Why? Because of the twin scroll cross manifold design. The N63 can essentially be turned into an S63 by changing the manifold and turbos and that is basically what an S63 is. Imagine turbochargers being fed by pulses from both banks instead of just one bank. That is exactly what a twin scroll setup does with the turbocharger taking in exhaust gases from both banks. This pays dividends in many areas. Spool is said to be increased which leads to low end torque gains as well as an improvement in throttle response. The turbos in theory will make more power through the rev range as they are continuously fed with exhaust pulses through the curve. One should also see a decrease in intake charge dilution during valve overlap along with lower exhaust gas temperatures. You also have reduced pumping losses and better fuel consumption. What are the disadvantages? There really aren't any other than more manufacturing and tuning complexity. In theory a good sized single twin scroll turbo will cost you less than a pair of high end traditional turbos. The main thing to get right is the firing order feeding the twin scroll turbo. For example a four-cylinder motor usually fires 1-3-4-2. You would want one exhaust passage to get gases from the number 1 and 4 cylinders and the other from the 3 and 2 cylinders. This may all sound too good to be true but the principle has been tested and a twin scroll setup is simply more efficient: More power through the curve? Yep: You also get the benefit of greater boost at lower engine speeds which is that low end torque and response benefit discussed earlier. You are going to see more and more twin scroll turbocharger applications in production cars. Expect variable geometry twin scroll turbochargers as well which means the turbocharger has vanes that can adjust. This way the turbocharger can adjust itself to maintain the speed of gas flow based on how much exhaust gas it is being fed. Turbo lag will never be eliminated but with twin scroll and variable vane turbo technology manufacturers are getting so close it may no longer matter. The modern turbo era is providing excellent response, efficiency, and power with fuel economy nobody would have thought possible not too long ago. Much respect to twin scroll technology!
    31 replies | 2261 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    06-30-2016, 05:41 AM
    Our Australian friends at Nizpro were nice enough to answer some questions for the BimmerBoost N54 community which is hungry for automatic transmission upgrade options. Nizpro recently demonstrated their upgraded ZF 6HP21 capability with hard launches on the drag strip. That is obviously just the beginning and development continues. BimmerBoost wanted to know when they were planning to release their transmission upgrade, what the upgrades entails, if the TCU software can be purchased separately, etc. These questions and answers below should provided some much needed details. BB: What is the expected cost? Nizpro: A fully internal Nizpro transmission upgrade will be approximately $ 7900 Australian dollars. BB: How close is it to release? Nizpro: We would like to be able offer full upgrades by Christmas . BB: Who is doing the TCU software tuning? Nizpro: Software calibrations are being done in house at Nizpro. BB: Does the $7900 AUD include software? Nizpro: Yes the calibration will be included as a complete package, however various calibration will be needed for various power levels. BB: Is it possible to purchase the software separately from the hardware? Nizpro: Absolutely, our plan is to offer calibrations totally separately. There will be a number of different calibration we will make available, for customers seeking different requirements. All will be based on standard transmissions, or of course our own upgraded transmission, if you have an upgraded transmission from another workshop you can certain use an off the shelf calibration but how it will behave I have no control over. BB: What is the expected torque capacity? Nizpro: Actual maximum torque numbers are a little hard to say, simply because there are many parameter that come into it. There is also a direct relationship with maximum torque numbers vs durability. In other words we could claim the transmission is capable of 1000 ft lbs of torque and in the fine print disclose it will last for half a mile at the torque figure. Customers need to be aware that the standard HP21 is rated at 450 nm, however this has a durability of 60,000 miles. It is clear that the stock transmission will cope with double its factory rating although its life expectancy is more like 20,000 miles those torque numbers. BB: How soon will Nizpro be testing the software as thus far the 335i with Nizpro upgrades did not utilize the software in its 1/4 mile runs? Nizpro: We actually have. We have track tested the car twice. Once using our upgraded transmission with Alpina for a base test data. 4 runs were recorded. We are not concerned with overall quarter mile times simply gear shift times for comparison, between calibrations. The second lot of testing using software changes were done the following weekend at a different track. The track had little grip on the day so the results were not really useful in terms of quarter times. This is all good news. Nizpro is on schedule to release their product this year and they will not force you to bundle their hardware and software together. Here are some additional details which should help get a better idea of what is involved. Things are looking up for the N54 automatic scene.
    32 replies | 1314 view(s)
  • jyamona@motiv's Avatar
    07-06-2016, 10:25 AM
    jyamona@motiv started a thread Delphi Coil Issue in N54
    Yesterday the car developed a misfire in cyl 3 at very low boost 12psi (only 1k miles on new Delphi coils). I pulled the coils to take a look, and the cyl 3 coil the silicon tip was barely finger tight, and came right off easily. Pic attached. Has this ever happened to anyone else? I cleaned it, and applied some new sealant (RTV black). This mostly fixed the misfire, but there is still a slight hiccup at 23-24psi. It is not enough to throw a code though.
    23 replies | 2055 view(s)
  • Enfiftyfore's Avatar
    07-19-2016, 11:39 AM
    I just came across this in my recommended videos.
    18 replies | 2470 view(s)
  • The Convert's Avatar
    07-10-2016, 11:45 PM
    The Convert started a thread ST kit swap...finally in N54
    I'm finally swapping my fftec vff900 kit out for the Motiv kit I bought a good while ago. The fftec kit will be for sale soon if anyone is interested. Not sure on price yet as I want to verify the condition of ALL parts once I get them all removed. Should have everything off in the next day or two.
    23 replies | 2306 view(s)
  • mike@n54tuning.com's Avatar
    07-19-2016, 11:51 AM
    ORDER LINK http://www.n54tuning.com/vtt-n54-gc-stock-location-turbochargers-fits-all-n54-models.html WHP Level supported (with proper fuel, upgrades, and tuning) Stock-750WHP We are proud to introduce the latest in our line of N54 turbocharger products the VTT "GC"turbochargers. This is a new N54 turbocharger from the ground up, using 100% new parts throughout. Some of the ground breaking features are fully new turbocharger from the compressor housing, to the bearing housing, to the turbine housing, we had them engineered to fit in the stock N54 location, but provide the full flow of a much larger turbo. You will not find any huge TD04HL wheels stuffed into the tiny stock turbine housing. Every part on these turbos were designed around our specific goals for power, flow, and reliability. What we ended up with is a turbocharger, that can utilize the stock location while providing enough flow for 750WHP. To do this we increase the area inside not only the manifolds, but also the turbine, and compressor housings, we also slightly increase AR ratio on the turbine housing to free up even more flow, while not giving up anything in spool. To put it bluntly, there is no other 750WHP capable turbocharger option on the market single or twins that can match the spool, ease of fitment, power or reliability of our "GC" turbochargers! Upgraded thrust: Every set of stage GC turbos comes with a performance upgraded thrust to extend the life of the turbochargers. Billet Compressor wheels: Billet compressor wheels are used to maximize flow per shaft revolution Turbine housing is cast from 22+NB Stainless steel VTT Inlet, AN/OR Charge pipe bundle. The GC turbochargers INCLUDE our very own VTT 2" inlets, and VTT silicone HOT SIDE charge pipe, and were designed to be used with these pieces. If you already have inlets, or want to use another inlet brand that is not problem, simply choose to remove the inlets from the options for a savings of $200. These turbochargers will only work with our silicone charge pipes, if you have already purchased one for you stock frame turbos, it can be reused on these if you remove the adapters, simply remove the charge pipe from the options as well for another $100 in savings. (Please note, if you remove these options, and do not have these items, you will not be able to install the turbos, as the stock inlets, or charge pipe will not fit the new turbos. We also offer 2000 degrees ceramic coating for the ultimate it under hood heat reduction, and to help aid in spool! Please choose from the options if you want your turbo coated! *Please choose if you need BOV inlets, or DV inlets from the options *There is NO core charges, but if you want to send us your stock turbos in, we will give back another $200 once you do so! (Please specify vehicle model when ordering. Currently we have kits for all models EXCEPT RHD. We are having the rear RHD housing cast currently. For 135/535/Z4 customers, you must purchase rear water line# 11 53 7 558 902, as you will be retrofitting your existing rear turbo with a 335LHD style turbo) If would like us to provide the water line we can for $100) (Price is for both turbos)
    23 replies | 1906 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    07-12-2016, 06:05 AM
    Nurburgring laptimes are basically a big dick measuring contest. That is fine of course as most things associated with automotive performance can be boiled down as such. The problem is everyone is not playing with the same sized ruler. What does this mean? Well, take Porsche's recent claim of a world record on the Nurburgring with the new Panamera Turbo. This tops the record set by the Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio's 7:39 laptime. Alfa Romeo never proved they set a 7:39 time by providing a video as proof. Did they do it? Maybe, maybe not, but who knows at this point if it wasn't just a marketing ploy. The issue is Porsche did not provide a full laptime video now either. They simply wrote '7:38' and claimed a world record in their video and that is supposed to be good enough. It isn't good enough. The gold standard for proving a laptime is what Dodge did with the Viper ACR. They claimed thirteen track records and provided thirteen timed videos of the car lapping the tracks as proof. Lamborghini did a beautiful job showcasing their 6:59.72 Nurburgring lap from the Aventador Superveloce. A video of the whole run with timing included is exactly how to display the result. So why are we taking Alfa Romeo and Porsche's word for it? How do we even know if the cars are running factory tunes? Nissan started this whole mess when they would claim lap records with the R34 GT-R but everyone knew they were upping the boost. Part of the problem Nissan had was that old (and stupid) Japanese horsepower cap. Porsche accused Nissan of cheating with the GT-R on the Nurburgring back in 2008: Was Nissan using ringers? Nobody else was able to match Nissan's own GTR laptimes. Nissan provided videos as proof but the problem is a video doesn't tell us what software the car is running or what tires. Nissan's response to Porsche was to post a video of a 7:29 GTR lap and to tell Porsche they would offer Porsche test drivers training. They essentially mocked Porsche as beating them in their own backyard was unacceptable to the Germans. Complicating matters beyond manufacturers playing games with software, tires, or just making claims without proof is that the Nurburgring imposed a testing ban recently. Sections of the track were repaved, changed, and additional safety precautions were put in place. The Nurburgring tested on now is not the same Nurburgring and this is a large factor when even fast laps are over 7 minutes long. Minor changes will add up. Add into this that differing weather conditions will change laps considerably as will traffic on the track. BMW rented out the track specifically for their F82 M4 GTS test which of course gives them an advantage over times set with traffic to avoid. The result was a 7:28 time which tops the Porsche Carrera GT and Koenigsegg CCX. Does anyone really believe the M4 GTS laps a track quicker than those two lighter cars with mid-engine layouts that are far more aerodynamic and more powerful? Porsche and Alfa Romeo proved people will believe whatever they say. At least BMW posted a video of the M4 GTS making its run even though we do not know what software they used (and BMW does use special press software for marketing). Porsche just decided to put the Panamera Turbo ahead of the Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio as Alfa Romeo never backed up their time with anything of substance and Porsche wanted big press for the new Panamera. You can not trust manufacturers to play this game honestly when the general public will not take any factors into account other than time X is less than time Y. If the Nurburgring is to be taken seriously as an automotive testing ground a standard must be created where production cars are brought in to set the records and more than one driver not on the manufacturer payroll get a crack at setting a time. Until then, you can not trust anyone because there is simply too much BS being thrown around. That is unfortunate for those competing honestly. Enough of the bullshit. If we are going to use the Nurburgring for comparisons then testing for timed and record laps must be standardized.
    32 replies | 1330 view(s)
  • xLOGANx's Avatar
    07-15-2016, 01:44 PM
    Proud to say I have a VM kit coming.reaching to all who has installed this kit.what else should I buy and prepare for as a preventative and what's needed to complete a VM kit install.Obviously I would need coolant and oil but what else?tried to search but nothing clear that I have found.what about the manifold oring gaskets?or extra studs? Also question on ceramic coating,is it recommend when getting the manifold done to "not"ceramic coat the O2 sensor heat sink inside and outer part and "not"ceramic coat the side of manifold where it mates to the head?
    23 replies | 1854 view(s)
  • MFactory's Avatar
    07-12-2016, 06:45 PM
    Hey guys, with a few extra samples of our 100% Dry-Carbon Driveshafts left in stock, and Sticky testing our E92 M3 DCT fitment, we are looking for a tester with an E46 M3 MT to help us out also. MSRP is $1499.95 + shipping Tester price is $800 + shipping Some images of our processing: Dry Carbon Fibre Spool Dry Carbon Fibre Weaving Dry Carbon Fibre Weaving (closer image) Dry Carbon Propshaft anyone? Finished Product (This is for GT86) MSRP will be $1499.95. This is around $100 more expensive than our competitors, but we are the only company to make them from 100% Dry Carbon Fibre (you can google wet vs dry carbon), and the only company that can balance them to 12000rpm with minimal vibration. During back-to-back comparison tests, all of our competitors carbon propshafts vibrated like crazy once spinning over 5000rpm, as none of them possess the machines that we do to manufacture custom joints to within 0.02mm tolerance. Ours are also stress tested to withstand over 5500nm torque (that's over 4000lbs) FWIW, of all the carbon propshafts we tested, the PST was the only one to come close to ours in terms of strength, which snapped at 4700nm. Don't even get me started on the DSS! lol. If anyone knows anyone who would be interested in helping us test the current "M" fitments that we have in stock, please ask them to contact us. P.S All of the current propshafts have been tested for over a year now; just not in the US market, hence why we are looking for US-based testers to help us with promotion
    26 replies | 1483 view(s)
  • SeanWebster's Avatar
    07-15-2016, 06:14 PM
    I got some nice runs in last night against some friends. Summary: M5 made 500whp - Lost Mustang has not yet dyno'd - Even Golf R made like 315whp I think - Lost Infiniti Q50 is stock - Lost M5 and Mustang runs: Golf R and Q50 runs:
    19 replies | 2081 view(s)
  • pits200's Avatar
    07-09-2016, 11:17 AM
    Just got my GCs in the mail on Friday and I am putting together a checklist of items needed for high boost. I'm awd, fbo, and am aware of the obvious drivetrain deficiencies, for now I am solely worried about everything else but the drivetrain. So far I have: 1.) Not going stage 3 lpfp, just stage 2 and plan on running 50-70% e85 max 2.) 3.5 bar sensor 3.) Tuner, anyone recommend a good tuner for high boost, I'm running MHD now. 4.) Spark plugs, I hear NGK5992 gapped to .22 works well 5.) Different oil? currently running mobil 1 0w-40 6.) Just installed new coils Any other suggestions are appreciated.
    17 replies | 2049 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    07-20-2016, 03:40 PM
    The BMW M badge really doesn't mean much any longer. It's been diluted to the point that when you see it on a car and often on a non-M car it hardly even gets your attention. I mean, they put M decals and badges all over the 2-Series Active Tourer so BMW doesn't give a crap at this point. If you're going to sell out, sell out harder BMW. Make an M version of your new FWD 1-Series sedan. Let's just take a big piss on the M badge while lighting hundred dollar bills on fire? Who cares? While you're at it, put M badges on some Mini Coopers too. Maybe a Rolls Royce M? Maybe start selling M badged toilet paper? That way we can truly wipe our ass with the badge just as you have.
    34 replies | 290 view(s)
  • threetirtyfive's Avatar
    07-14-2016, 05:07 PM
    Hi guys my car was throwing up errors on bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 1 sensor 2 lambda sensors. After much hassle I managed to use a flexible wrench with a flexible extension bar to an O2 socket to remove the sensor from the top of the engine bay and replace it, definitely bank 1 - as it was nearest to the front of the car, black lead, however, after replacement, and resetting the service light, it promptly came back and logging in MHD shows the same odd readings from this lambda sensor- http://datazap.me/u/threetirtyfive/335i-after-lambda-replacement?log=0&data=17-23 now the guy who sold me the car said that the modified program it was running was causing the lambda sensors in bank 1 to report faulty, BS I thought so I set about replacing them. Admittedly I only replaced b1s1 as I was more concerned with the AFR than the function of the cat, but perhaps his story wasn't wrong and it's indeed the program, anyone ever heard of this before? I had the fuelling checked whilst it was on dyno and it was fine, not too lean or rich, so I guess it's all being controlled off bank 2 right now. Also no idling issues, no hesitation, car makes good power.
    24 replies | 1561 view(s)
  • 8900120d's Avatar
    07-09-2016, 02:04 PM
    Hi guys, ive searched the Web and didn't find a solution the bov surging issue, just wondering if anyone managed to find a solution. At low constant throttle the bov repeatedly flutters and the inlets also surge at low boost only (~2psi) This is noticed more when cruising on cruise control. I have pure stage 2 turbos with 2 inch inlets, my rear inlet is VTT and my front inlet is just a 90 degree elbow with a filter at the end (similar to tft) I have a custom flash with jb4 and default waste gate position has been set to 2500rpm. The issue was still present even with the bms flash. BMS dci Bms occ Bms jb4 g5 iso Big tom front mount intercooler Pure stage 2 turbos Vtt 2inch inlets Rb upgraded oil drians Rb pcv valve Custom oil cooler HKS exhaust VRSF downpipes NGK plugs gapped at .022 inch Er charge pipe HKS bov Fuel it stage 1 LPFP Brand new hpfp Brand new vanos solenoids 4 bar tmap Bms methanol injection dual cm7 50/50 mix I've attached logs of normal cruising with light throttle, the tuner didn't notice anything wrong with the logs. Im not too fussed about the actual flutter sound, it doesn't sound too bad, however I need a confirmation on whether it can damage the engine or not. Thanks
    20 replies | 1618 view(s)
  • DQE92's Avatar
    07-02-2016, 02:08 AM
    Brand new upgraded fuel system I purchased a while back when I was going to upgrade turbos. These are still brand new in the box and need gone ASAP!! Spent over $3000 for this fuel system Asking Price is $2500 including shipping or OBO Complete Fuel-it Stage 3 with hobbs switch MOTIV Port Injection Spacer, Rail and Injector Kit (#MOTIV-PIFS-SRIK1) Select Model: 335 MOTIV Port Injection Feed, Regulate, and Return Kit (#MOTIV-PIFS-FRRK1) Which Port Injection Fuel System Will You Be Using?: MOTIV Spacer, Rail, and Injector Kit Select Model: 335 Split Second - Additional Injector Controller (#SPLIT-AIC1-G6H) Please message me for inquiries
    15 replies | 2392 view(s)
  • damonp335i's Avatar
    07-01-2016, 12:03 PM
    Whats up everybody. I am new here but I have been on e90post for a while now.. seems like this is the place to go for more technical type questions, and I am admittedly farily new to all of this so bare with me.. I have a 2008 335i 6mt (e92) RWD.. Car is FBO right now. Helix FMIC Full catless CP-E exhaust ER CP w/ TiAL bov Fuel-IT stage 3 lpfp MOTIV SST clutch AFE Intake Currently running an OTS e40 map w/ MHD.. NO JB4 .. and a bunch of other little stuff but thats the majority of the parts that matter. I just ordered the DocRace ST kit w/ the 6466. I know that I still need the following to achieve/support my 700rwhp goal: -PI -Oil cooler? -LSD -Bigger FMIC? Looking to run 27-28psi on 100% E85. and have a mild pump gas map. My questions are as follows: -What type of PI controller do you guys reccommend? A friend of mine is running the Fuel-It PI from steve and flash only AIC.. Both the secondary fuel pump and PI power wires were run to two switches in the glove box so they can be turned off whenever he decides to switch to pump gas.. (pretty cool, actually) - I really don't care to use JB4.. Some guys love it, some guys say flash only is better/easier.. I dont care about anti-lag or cool little features on the cluster.. -Do I need a bigger FMIC? The one I have now is just a Helix 5inch.. It is thermal coated black, but I doubt that really makes a difference. I will be doing mostly highway pulls and such. nothing too crazy. -Oil cooler? If necessary, which one? I dont know if a dual setup is necessary.. The ER ones caught my eye - a friend has a pure stage 2 car running the ER single oil cooler.. -LSD I am sure this is a requirement but I dont know if I can get away with tuning the car/driving it for the time being on the stock rear.. Thanks in advance.. any help/input is much appreciated!
    15 replies | 1804 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    07-18-2016, 09:00 AM
    While direct fuel injection brings with it certain upsides such as greater fuel economy and higher compression ratios on pump fuel there are downsides to the technology as well. One such downside is carbon buildup which you see on the intake valves. This is why walnut blasting to clear out carbon deposits is popular maintenance especially considering buildup can and will reduce engine output. Not to mention if it gets severe enough it will cause other problems. Newer motors are better about this (especially engines with dual injection systems where fuel sprayed on the backside of intake valves helps keep them clean) but anyone with a direct fuel injected motor would be wise to monitor their carbon buildup situation. You don't want that much gunk just sitting in your motor, do you? The photo is from carbon deposits removed from a VW TSI engine with 78k miles.
    22 replies | 702 view(s)
  • E36luv's Avatar
    07-10-2016, 01:25 PM
    I have been searching and I have made attempts to sort this on my own. My car starts up fine but under throttle it starts to stumble and wont hardly move. I am getting the Engine Malfunction Reduced Power along with these codes through the JB4: 29D1 Misfirings, cylinder 5 29D2 Misfirings, cylinder 6 29CC Misfirings, several cylinders 29D0 Misfirings, cylinder 4 30FF Boost under target -- possible boost leak I have also had 2AAF fuel pump, plausibility but that is not currently coming up. My car is stock besides the JB4 on MAP 1. I have replaced all of the vacuum lines, replaced the ignition coils, spark plugs and checked the chargepipe for leaks. What is next? I dont want to just throw parts at it but I am thinking the injectors/HPFP next. Here is a log that i took, I am new to this stuff so if you are able to see a problem through the log please explain so I can learn. Help me fix this before my VM 6466 kit gets here :)
    17 replies | 1599 view(s)
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